iluvteles

I'm not very good at doing scarf joints. No matter what I do they dont turn out square and they move all over the place when trying to glue up.

If this does not turn out very good I'm not doing anymore. I'll just waste a big neck blank and saw the 13 degree angle out of one piece.

Just a little bit work this weekend.

I've rough cut the body shape and planed up the laminate neck blank plus a spare.

Started on the Goncarlo and Wenge neck today. This Wenge is horrible wood to work with. It chips real easy. The Goncarlo Alves on the other hand is real nice to work with.

I have cut the stock and will glue up soon.

The lam neck blank is 45mm so I could get two necks at 20mm thick.

The Wenge fetboard is 6mm thick. Is this too thin?

Thanks for the tip. Thats why we join forums to tap into experience of other builders and make us better.

Thanks.

Interesting reading about the glues. It took me a while to figure out that your maybe not was a link. Maybe I should stick with the tried and tested Tightbond original. I just like the poyurathne because you only need to glue one side and the squeeze out cuts off with a scraper.

I had to build the width out a bit because I was 10mm short on the width. I did not want to waste the wood and I thinking alot about it I wanted to just have the spalted to by its self but its done now and so I will continue. I'll be starting on the neck blank soon.

Its Goncarlo and Wenge laminate with a Wenge fretboard.

I use polyurathan moisture curing. I find its cheaper than Tightbond and it cures in 30mins so I done this body blank in two halfs in about one hour to first glue up to unclamping.

The wood will break before the glue gives in

I have gone with the original plan and use a Wenge stripe through the middle because the body sides were short by 10mm on the width. Now all glued up and away at a local wood shop to be machine belt sanded.

Today I have planed the Sapele laminate down to about 2mm and cut the spalted Beech so its a bit more tidy for gluing onto the Idigbo and Sapele body halfs.

As MzI surggests I was thinking of omitting the central stripe altogether because I thought it may be getting cluttered but without it the total width after jointing and gluing will be about 315mm wide and a Tele is about 325mm.

I'm going to glue the spalt on and sleep on it overnight and decide what to do because I dont like wasting wood. trees have died for it.

The Idigbo had some saw marks in that needed to be planed out so the best time to do it is now.

I've also decided to use one of the old 4th build necks because it would be a shame to waste them. However I dont think the Bubinga/Walnut/Maple/Walnut/Bubinga neck goes thith a Idigbo and Wenge body back.

I think the best thing do do is swap the central wenge strip for a Bubinga strip.

What do you all think?

Hi, my name is Lee and I have handmade a strat and 2 teles and this will be my 4th build.

I've started by cutting some Idigbo for the body back. I had it at 36mm thick so the spalted beech top which is 9mm would laminate on the top and make 45mm but I noticed a few saw marks which were about 2mm deep so decided to put a thin 2mm lam of Sapele in the middle.

I've split the Sapele and will glue it onto the Idigbo and when plane it down to 2mm thick and then plane the back of the Idigbo to remove the saw marks.

I've also cut a strip of Wenge to run down the middle of the body.