MetalOne72

Are there any tips on routing a body shape out from a template and avoiding blow-out or rough areas? Particularly around any horn area's. In the past I used to use a Robo-sander to follow the perimeter but it takes longer and most of the ones I've used, the bearing wasng perfectly aligned with the sanding edge.

Thanks.

Scott

Thanks, thats what I figured but it is hard to tell from pictures. Just wanted to be sure.

Thanks.

Quick question, when you all do a set neck (not the typical Gibson style mortise and tenon), do you taper the neck blank to match the finger board prior to the neck joint being cut. If so, do you do this by routing the neck blank to a template? Is there any concern with the tapered joint since the joint is under tension in the direction of the joint loosening? Or is the mortise/tenon rectangular?

New and not used. You can see in the picture that they still have LMI's stickers on them. Maybe 5 years old? Not sure. I tested them and they seemed to function properly.

Scott

I have for sale a set of three LMI Double Action Truss Rods for Electrics (LMI Part Number: TRED). They are 17" long I am asking $50 plus shipping. If you need references, you can check out my Ebay account to see that I am an honest/reputable seller. If you are interested, PM me or email me at metalone72 at gmail dot com

Thanks,

Scott

I had just recently bought the stew-mac router bit for hte hot rod trusses and found that it gave too loose of a fit so it went back with no problem. I am planning to get a 7/32" downcut carbide to cut the channel.

Not to hijack the thread, but I have three of the LMI double Action truss rods for electrics (Part# TRED)for sale for $50 + Shipping. I was coming here to post it in the classifieds for I had them posted for sale in another forum.

Ok that helps. Though I would be interested in something with a larger inlay, but pretty cool none the less. My guess is that was a pretty flat radius? Also,How did you scribe the shape onto the Fingerboard with the radius? Was it done by rolling the inlay on the Fingerboardand tracing it?

Ok so even though the FB is radiused, you still route a flat bottom that is parallel to the bottom of the finger board. So when you cut the pearl do you cut the pearl at any angle or iare all the cuts still done at perpindicular to the bottom of the pearl?

So what good are the Robinson video's?

I've read that pinned topic several times, but I was curious if there was any tutorials out there showing someone going through the motions from start to finished. I was thinking of picking up Larry Robinson's videos but the $140 is pricey and I'm not sure what is actually shown.

Anyone have any good links to Tutorials on Inlaying on a preradiused board? It seems like the experts like inlaying on a pre-radiused board, but I need to see it done to help me understand some things.

Thanks in advance!

Sorry, I was unclear. When I meant by drop off was in relation to the center of the finger board. As you go toward the edge the height drops in relation to the center of the finger board to the height of the edge.

I have the Grizzly Radius jig for a horizontal Belt Sander (also a Grizzly), do not need to worry about chipping the inlay. By just under the finger board, I was compensating for a little extra removal from the center of the board due to radiusing. Nothing drastic. I am really leaning towards inlaying them before I radius.

I have a cool Birdseye Maple Fingerboard bound in maple that I want to inlay some nice Paua Dots. My questions is what would be the best method of doing it. I feel as though drilling the holes after radiusing would be the best to retain the color/figure in the dots, however,I am worried about any chip out/tearing in the figured maple. The alternative and easier method would be to inlay them prior to radiusing. I would have them sit just below the surface of the fingerboard. For the two dots at the 12th fret, I would go a little deeper to try and compensate for the drop off. I thought of doing a partial radius at a higher radius, Inlaying them, and then reradius to the correct compound radius. It would be a sufficient halfway point, however, It would b very tedious with the set up of the radiusing jig.

Any suggestions?

I'd like to see a picture of that jig, if possible.

Thanks guys. So I am not too far off. I'll give it another go around tonight or tomorrow. So, some of you bind the finger board while it is on the neck?

Looking for some suggestions for binding fingerboards. I tried to glue up some maple binding on a maple Finger board and it didn't go so well. I tried using some binding tape and a few clamps but I ended up some very small gaps. I could have probably let them go, but the perfectionist in me couldn't live with it so I cut it off. There have got to be some better techniques out there or some kind of jigs . I'm interested in hearing what you have to say!

Thank!