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shad peters

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Posts posted by shad peters

  1. Some of you already know, but for those who don't, about a month ago my shop was completely leveled by a fire. It was a total loss, wood, equipment, tools, everything. Recently I had a chance to buy a pretty large quantity of east indian rosewood and gabon ebony fretboards at a pretty steep discount. Under normal circumstances I would probably keep most of it, but in light of the recent shop fire I think I'm going to try selling a good chunk of it to help get some extra cash flow going. It helps me get back on my feet and saves you guys a little money, seems like a win win to me. They are all good seasoned wood that's ready to use, I bought them from another builder and some pieces were as much as 25 years old, and what I would consider first grade quality. The EIR is almost all blanks, and the avg dimensions are 2.5" at the nut end, 3" at the heel end, and 5/16" thick. Most fall between are 19.5-21.5" long. If you have any specfic dimension needs just let me know. I'm gonna ask 8 dollars a piece for the EIR blanks, 7 dollars for 10 or more.
    if you are interested, please use your Paypal email address and message me at petersinstruments@live.com. Please include your shipping address so I can let you know what shipping will be, the quantity you are interested in, and if you have any coloration preferences. I'll field any questions in this thread so I don't have to answer the same thing over and over again. If you want to mix and match 10 of each i'll do the discount on it that way to.
    Here's a few photos of avg EIR boards, they are all really nice.
    10676203_10153017324618948_5631456159681
    1510458_10153017324763948_19830243456789
    1601540_10153017324888948_46064477117901
    I also have 23 rosewood boards that are tapered, slotted for a 25.5" scale and 22 frets, and have a radius of 12" on them. They have been prepped for offset 3/32" dots, and 1/16" side dots. here is an example of one of these boards,
    10959450_10153025358998948_6792913220953
    I have quite a bit of ebony, but I don't have any blanks left, that stuff sold pretty quick. What I have are all slotted, some are radiused, some are already drilled for side dots, some are bound already, etc. So, here is everything I have at the moment, all broke down into groups. I have numbered each individual board so that you can reference specific pieces that you want. most of these slotted ones have a couple locating holes drilled in the back side, but they shouldn't hurt anything. These ebony boards are also closer 1/4" thick where as all the rosewood boards were closer to 5/16.
    So this first group of boards was marked as 25.5", but by my measurments they look like 25.4. All I have to check them with is a tape measure since all precision measuring tools were in the fire, but I am pretty confident they are 25.4. Four of them have 20 fret slots, one has 19, and one has 21. they are all marked in the photo. These boards also have a radius. I checked it against a sanding beam and they appear to be 12". They are a little dirty, but will clean up really nice. I'd like to get 30 a piece for these.
    1504072_10153025355988948_72332936895997
    These two are a little odd, it took me a while to figure them out. I am just about positive that these have been cut for a 25" scale, but the nut "slot" had not been cut yet, you can tell there is a lot of headroom left to make that last cut. So if you buy these you can either use them as they are which would be an 18 fret board with a 23.5ish inch scale, or you can make that last cut for the nut and have a 25" 19 fret board. these two boards are already tapered and measure 1 23/32 at the first slot, and 2 7/32 at the last slot. not drilled for side dots, and no binding. you can trim these and ad binding to make them whatever final dimensions you want. I think 22 a piece on these would be fair.
    10309705_10153025356213948_1978516882532
    These next two groups of boards have exactly the same specs as the group in the last photo except that they appear to be two thin pieces of ebony laminated together to make one board. I didnt realize there was anything like this mixed in when I bought them, but they should still make a good fretboard. I'm gonna ask 18 a piece on these since they laminates, they are still really nice looking boards.
    1977383_10153025356333948_15891717923418
    10358558_10153025356483948_6428674297901
    Here are four boards slotted with a 26" scale for 21 frets. There is some room left at the bottom so you could cut a few more fret slots if you wanted to. no radius, no binding, and really good dark color. I think 24 a piece on these would be fair.
    10950667_10153025356583948_1468885269617
    This group of boards has a 25.5" scale length, 12" radius, and each has been pre drilled for 1/16" side dots, and offset 3/32" face dots. They are slotted for 22 frets, but the ends have had some unique treatment, so some may find it best to trim them down for a 21 fret neck or less. these measure 1 7/8" at the nut and 2 7/16 at the last fret. I'd like 25 a piece for these.
    10931095_10153025357568948_4434149367063
    These boards are exactly the same as those photographed above except that they measure 1 23/32 at the nut and 2 5/16 at the last fret. 25 a piece for these as well
    10959298_10153025357823948_8252424864362
    Here is that unique treatment of the ends that I was talking about.
    10421205_10153025357153948_7581127712364
    This group of boards have a 25.4" scale, pearl dots, ebony binding, 22 fret slots, and no radius. they measure 1 7/8" at the nut, and 2 3/8" at the heel end. They have the same treatment of the end of the board as the last two groups did. I'd like to get 25 a piece for these.
    10425515_10153025358093948_5684150145225
    Here is another group with a 26" scale length. These have already been bound in ebony, they are flat, and have 20 fret slots. They measure 2" at the nut end and 2 7/16 at the heel end. I imagine they would probably need to have the binding trimmed off, have the board resized, and then new binding glued on unless you just wanted a really wide fretboard. 22 a piece on these
    10292469_10153025358278948_6542943665236
    These three are kind of odd balls, they are the same the other 25" scale boards in that they have been pre drilled for inlays and side dots, have a 12 radius, and have the same treatment at the heal end of the board. but one has ebony binding on it, and all three are laminated and have a mahogany strip glued to the back. I'm just gonna ask 15 a piece on these since they are kind of wierd. 1377393_10153025358458948_24628203704151
    10446644_10153025358538948_1730035157788
    10171881_10153025358643948_6320674576343
    here are two more odd balls that didnt fit in with the other groups, both have the nut width written at the top of the board. one has rosewood binding, the other has ebony binding, the ebony bound one is flat, the other has a 12 inch radius, both have 22 frets. the rosewood bound one has been prepped for fretboard inlays. 20 a piece on these two boards.
    1507741_10153025358768948_34605404472249
    10403521_10153025358903948_4215195491738
  2. Unfortunately no, I worked out of our garage which was covered under our homeowners policy, but uknown to us our policy was written in such a way that in the case of any "bussiness activities" taking place in the structure they will not cover the building, or bussiness related contents. The insurance companies definition of "bussiness" is so broad that if I had had a garage sale out there they probably would not have covered it. Its a pretty scummy situation.

  3. Hey everyone, I have had a lot of different people tell me that they would like to help, and while unable to do so financially, would like to send tools and stuff. If anyone would like to help in this way I have compiled a list of tools that I lost in the fire that are smaller and easy to ship. This is by no means a comprehensive list, I just rattled things off as they came to mind and wrote down a couple pages worth. If you plan to send anything please put down what you will be sending in the comments section so that others can know what is being covered, and send me a pm here, or a message on Facebook and I'll get you an address. Thanks again to everyone for all the encouragement and support! we have been blown away by the generosity of people.

    https://www.facebook.com/notes/peter...30793400318412

  4. Time to resurrect this thread! Its been not quite a year ago since my last go at this guitar came to an untimely demise. Since then life has been kinda nuts but i managed to squeeze in some time here and there to make a new body and was able to salvage the nek from my first attempt. and now it is just about ready to go under finish, Here is a recent pic, I'll try to take some more soon.

    1978775_10152275614803948_1241188385_n.j

  5. Peters JR. Style build.

    This is the first guitar out of my shop to feature the wooden bigsby idea. I have a few other in the works and a couple that were actually started before this one, but this is just the first to get completed. Its a pretty basic build that just uses top of the line materials and hardware.

    Spec list:
    Top: 5a quilted maple
    Back: mahogany
    Neck: 5a curly rock maple
    Headstock veneers: quilted maple
    Fretboard: east indian rosewood
    Binding: east indian rosewood
    Pickups rings: east indian rosewood
    Knobs: east indian rosewood
    Tremolo base: east indian rosewood
    Purfling: pearloid
    Inlays: Mother of pearl
    Nut: bone

    Bridge: golden age roller bridge
    Tuners: Grover

    Neck: std C carve

    Pickups: lollar imperials
    Selector switch: 3-way toggle
    Controls: 2 volume, 2 tone

    11075302995_36e5c55cfd_z.jpg

  6. the worst thing I found about working with the Oak was that the pores are stinking huge! hence I think it is best suited for satin type finishes (at least for me) but the figured stuff does look beautiful. To see it in person it really even cooler, the curl creates a very unique pattern in the quarter sawn rays, and the combination of the rays and curl together is really breathtaking.

  7. 7-string Ranger

    After some of the guitars entered this month I debated heavily weather or not I even wanted to take the time to enter, but I haven't finished anything new for a bit, so I figured I might as well. This is my first seven string guitar, its made from all domestic wood consisting of a curly quartersawn white oak top and neck, chambered black walnut back, curly black walnut pickup covers bridge base and knobs, and hickory fretboard. Its got dimarzio pickups, hipshot tuners, and switchcraft/cts electronics. This guitar is kinda outside the norm for me as far as style goes, but it was an interesting excursion into the world of extra strings- a good intro for the baritone 8 string hollowbody I'll be starting on soon. Just figured I'd throw it up for kicks.

    just to address the inevitable comment ahead of time it is not sitting on the concrete, I just like to concrete as a sort of industrial backdrop for some guitars, rest assured it is resting safely upon cork pads.

    8991003623_dc4be7e36d_z.jpg
  8. As beautiful as that top was, it didn't quite compare to the Limba. Hopefully that part can be recovered and we'll see her completed. :-)

    Whoa, that truly sucks. There is no chance to just replace the top and save that back as well?

    SR

    unfortunately I just don't think that there is a chance at saving the back as much as it pains me to say so. the body landed in the worst possible way, hitting the ground in the least structurally sound spot. It landed on the lower bout at the tail end of the guitar so all of that stress went into end grain, and since the electronics plate was out there was no additional wood to help absorb the blow so there is a good size and a big crack in the back as well. I am fairly certain had the back stayed solid the top would have been fine. Even if I could save the back I'm really just a builder, not a repairman, and I'm not particularly confident in my ability to safely remove the neck without doing irreversible damage to the body. I also feel that the carved heel would make removing the neck with heat even more difficult.

    I have some more redwood that I actually like better anyway, and while the limba was beautiful I know I can find more, and there are things that I could do better the second time around.

  9. welp, much to my dismay this guitar met and untimely demise last week. I have a rack on a shelf for my works in progress to sit on and without realizing it I didnt get it seated in well enough after working on it. 5 minutes later while working on another guitar I heard this one come crashing down to the concrete busting the top.... sad day. The neck is still good so I think I can save that and make a new body, but its really going to slow my progress down on this one though. Not sure when I'll get it done now.

  10. I mentioned in the original post that the tailpiece was a surprise. I have been working on a bigsby style tremolo where the base is made from exotic woods instead of aluminum. I like bigsby's but the look just doesn't really go with my guitars, they are kinda bulky and its just a lot of shinny aluminum on top of the guitar. I'm working on two right now, one is from rosewood, the other from maccasar ebony will go on this guitar. I did a test run with some hard maple and it was plenty strong enough to hold up to the tension so the ebony and rosewood should be fine.

    not sure if others will find this as cool as I do, but I'm stoked about it, I'm loving the way this is turning out. especially the ebony one.

    8622469697_96d37736d8_z.jpg
    (this is the rosewood but it shows the next step in the process)
  11. That headstock back veneer looks great! Pure class.

    Thanks, I really like the way it came out, most of the hardware willl be coming from that same piece of wood.

    Great looking build. It blows my mind now much that redwood looks like bubinga.

    I think you'll probably change your mind once it has finish on it, or maybe if you could see it in person, it has some similarities in color to bubinga, but its pretty distinctive I think.

    Didn't get a whole lot done that I can actually show as progress shots this week, but I did carve the heel and more or less finish that part up.

    8576506241_04231cb587_z.jpg

    Untitled by Peters Instruments, on Flickr

    8576872067_608497ffb5_z.jpg

    Untitled by Peters Instruments, on Flickr

  12. well I got out the neck jig yesterday and got through routing out five neck pockets, among them was this build. It was the first one that I did for that day, so it did not turn out as absolutely snug as I would like for it to, but it's still a plenty good joint though. you can pick up the guitar by the neck with no issued and its not been glued in yet. this neck jig is based off what myka uses with a few changes of my own.

    8514587790_ff6771309c_z.jpg

    Untitled by Peters Instruments, on Flickr

    8514586592_5296200d0b_z.jpg

    Untitled by Peters Instruments, on Flickr

    8514585428_a3cc71f197_z.jpg

    Untitled by Peters Instruments, on Flickr

    8513474493_0a1e25e2c5_z.jpg

    Untitled by Peters Instruments, on Flickr

  13. Yesterday I started the hand shaping of the neck and man does that round over reduce the work, with the dragon rasp, a good cleanup file and a cabinet scraper I'll bet I had a more or less refined carve inside of 20 min, it was great. I need to wait to carve the volute until I get some maccassar ebony to put a veneer on with. I just ordered a gorgeous piece from gilmer yesterday and it will be the source for the veneer, and all the other wood fittings and appointments dotted about the guitar. I won't do any carving on the heal until the neck is set, and thats when I'll do the final refinments to the rest of the neck as well.

    I'm thinking about making a fixture to hold my neck solid at both ends that sit on a pedestal for use while carving. has anyone made something like that before? It'd be nice to see some other ideas before jumping in and making it.

    8508024943_1cdb53de43_z.jpg

    Untitled by Peters Instruments, on Flickr

    here is neck with a little alchohal to show the curl, its not super strong, but it's still gorgeous in my mind.

    8509131442_30e5d0df93_z.jpg

    Untitled by Peters Instruments, on Flickr

  14. I rebuilt my over arm router recently, its still not an industrial router by any means, but it does get the job done. one of these days when I move to a new shop and have more room Ill rebuild it one more time from steel.. but thats besides the point. Since rebuilding it and upgrading the router it has become a much more useful tool and I'm able to do much more with it. for example, I can now easily set it up to do a rough carve on my necks, which saves quite a bit of time.

    8498287877_0683995281_z.jpg

    Untitled by Peters Instruments, on Flickr

    Here is the rough carve after two passes on the router, it turned out quite well.

    8498286257_b2944d37ed_z.jpg

    Untitled by Peters Instruments, on Flickr

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