Macimalac

The link:

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...20prs&st=30

Look at post #36, it shows the body from the side, the body thickness change toward the neck end can be clearly seen.

I think Crow meant that after going all around with the roundower bit, it is not possible to carve a PRS style arched top at the neck joint area. You might salvage the body by carving a straight plane from the bridge position to the edge of the maple cap at the neck joint. This is necessary aniway to have a proper body carve for a PRS, as it can be seen in some older threads. For example as I remember there was a nice side wiew picture in the "Blue PRS" thread.

Üdvözöllek Székesfehérvárról!

By the way, in the plan there is no volute drawn at the joining of the underside of the headstock and the neck. Are you planning to use one, or you feel that without it the neck is easier to play in the first position?

Regards,

Macimalac

Yes, I just wanted to note that it is easier to work with a straight blank piece . Probably it is much easier to have a straight piece when you route the truss rod slot also.

My next project might be an SG, so please keep us informed on the process. I am particularly interested in where you plan to start the neck angle (at the fretboard end or at the body end).

Regards,

Macimalac

I have noticed that you have made the headstock ears. Please do not glue them to the neck before bandsawing the neck side profile, because it is hard to do proper sawing that way.

I have a ton of Cherry, and long enough to make a neck-thru. Anyone have any expreience with Cherry for a neck?

In 2005 I have made a Les Paul neck and body out of european cherry. No problems where encountered, the sound is good, but brighter sounding than mahagony. Actually I like the neck PU sound on the cherry LP, because it is not muddy.

Go for it!

I tap everything. Even 12 foot 8/4 boards. Works fine. I know it may not be rational, but I'd rather have wood that's 'responsive', that vibrates in a pleasing, musical manner, than stuff that will only give me a dull thud. What the dull thud implies to me is a) there may be hidden flaws or cracks in there that are interfering with the vibrations it may just be one of those bits of wood that has higher damping/vibration absorbtion than others. Don't particularly want either in an instrument, ergo the tapping. I don't look for a frequency or anything else (dimensions affect that), just a certain basic 'musicality' to it. It's a gut feeling when it comes to electrics, and a gut feeling with slightly more thinking behind it if we're talking thin plates (soundboards, etc. which get flexed and tapped) So far, it's worked for me.

Exatly what I am doing. Besides, when my local rosewod supplier noticed what I am doing, he gave me extra discount on the selected fretboard blank, because he would not overcharge "real instrument builders".

Right, I've been playing around with my caliper...

The problem I'm having comes from my bits-- the 11 mm bit is actually shy of 11 mm. And the 12 inch bit I have is about 11.5 mm!

And these aren't cheapo bits either.

Meanwhile, the studs I have are all slightly different as well--we're talking about .5 mm or more in difference.

At least with all this fussing around I'm getting pretty good at drilling holes that fit my bridge exactly....

So with the 11 mm bit I should be able to get the bushing in there ---but in order to do that I'm really going to have pound away with a rubber mallet.

Is that the way it's supposed to be done? Seems to me that it shouldn't require that much force?

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I think theorethically you should use a bit which is larger than the core diameter, but smaller than the extended size caused by the small ribs pressed to the surface of th bushing.

In my case the core diameter was a bit less than 11 mm, so only the small ribs cut into the wood. At the case of the 7 mm drill at the bridge, the difference was less, about 0.2mm, and I was able to press the bushing in with the end of the rubber mallet. I am well over 100kgs, so i suppose somebody else with less weight might use blows with the rubber hammer.

I have recently installed a Schaller TOM, with 11 mm brad point bit for the stop bar, and 7 mm for the bridge. Since the bushing meassured only 0.26 mm larger than the nominal diameter, it was a good easy fit with a plastic mallet.

But beware, if any paint gets into the hole, it will be impossible to hammer the bushings in.

-macimalac