christhegreat

Hi. I recently glued a flamed maple veneer on an ibanez RG, and everything was fine until I saw a crack along the grain of the wood. The crack is on the edge, about 1" long. I'm going to use alcohol-based dye after on it, and maybe do a burst. I'd like to know what options I would have to repair the crack. thanks.

Hi. I got this product: Waxine products You'll tell me it's in french. On the bottle of red and black stain/dye, it's all french. The problem is that in french dye and stain both mean the same word. In the woodworking store I was, the salesperson didn't know the difference. So I'd like to know if what I have is a stain or a dye. I'll translate the info to help you out. They say it is alcohol-based, with transparent pigments. Colors can be blended together or diluted with methanol. On the bottle they say it's made from: Acetone, Diéthylène, glycol, monométhyl and methanol. It would be great to know if the product I have is a stain or a dye to use it as a reference for future uses. thanks a lot.

Here it is. It's the post #32 of topic Veneer problem.

Hi there. I was suggested to use the Iron method to glue the veneer onto the guitar body. The veneer is flamed maple. 1) Spreaded titebond on both surfaces using a credit card to apply an even coat. 2) Waited a couple of hours till the glue is dried. 3) Used heat from an iron to glue the pieces together. When I practiced on scrap, I didn't notice any shrinking, and the glue joint was solid, so I glued the veneer on the guitar. The problem is the veneer shrinked so much I have a gap of an eight of an inch between the two pieces. I will remove the veneer, that's no problem. But I'd like to know if I did something wrong or if it is normal that the veneer shrinks a bit, and what could I do to orevent this from happening? Thanks.

Oh. I hope it's not a common issue with the schecters. And I do have a RG570, not a 1570, sorry for the mistake. Anyone knows if the overall quality on 1570 is really better (except for the edge trem)? The problem anyways is that the rg sounds thin. I would like a fast feel guitar with full tone. I was wondering what the tone difference is between the C1 Exotic and the C1 Classic in terms of basic sound. thanks

So, anyone out there has tried (or preferably owned) an Rg and those schecter models and could highlight the main differences (besides electronics)? thanks again

I was asking because the dealer near me has the left-handed models on special order only. I played a schecter once, along with an esp ec-1000, and hated the esp. I didn't know about schecter and was a shitty player at that time, and they don't have the schecter anymore in stock. I want to know how those model sound and feel in an objective way. I don't want to know if this one is the one I shold buy. I just want to know if the got fast and loose feel, if the body's tone is good or ok. And I don't want it to play jazz since I've already got a jazz guitar. I want to know if the C1 classic is a bright guitar, if the C1 exotic is fuller (I don't care for the pickups since I can always change them if I want).

Hi. I looked at schecter guitars, and they look like a great deal for the money. What's the catch? I'd like to know a cuple of things also. I'm planning on buying a C1 model. I'm a jazz player and I'm looking for a guitar that will shred with good tone. I have an Ibanez RG 1570. I like the action's feel, but intonation and tone are real crap, even with good pickups, and the damn LO-TRS trem won't stay in tune. I like the fast action, but I'm looking for a little fatter neck so that the sound will be thicker and less brittle. I was looking at the C1 classic. Is the neck access a pain in the a** since they don't specify ultra access, or since it's a neckthrough it's easy to carve the neck access? Also, that is the sound like? Brittle, cause of the maple neck, but does the glue of the neckthrough compensate? Is the action loose and fast like an RG? Is the wine of life inlay made of cheap material? And in comparison to the C1 exotic? Is the real maple cap really improving the tone? How is the action compared to the two models, and compared to an RG, as it is my reference point. Would like to get opinions and experiences. Thanks.

Hi. I just wanted to add thanks for doc's patience. It's my first time at veneering, and I've never worked with glues before. I just don't know a thing, I'm not dumb. I just liked the idea of spray glue because it seemed like the best way to avoid the mistake I made first. And also, nobody said first that it was a stupid way to glue something. I just didn't know spray glue was THAT bad. I find it a little sad that people start laughing or dissing. I'll use the iron method as suggested, and hope in the future I won't encounter people like drak in forums.

Hi. I'm going to redo it with the 3M 77 spray glue, and be very careful this time. I just need to know one more thing. What product should I use to remove/dissolve polyurethane glue? Would acetone work? Thanks a lot.

I did try sanding, and came to the point where I always see glue. I'll remove the veneer, and try again. But I'd like to knoe what I could do to prevent this from happening again, as how to make the veneer less porous before glueing it.

Hi there. I recently glued a pomelle sapelle veneer on an Ibanez RG. The problem is that the glue has poured through the veneer and now I have glue on the guitar top. I used ProBond glue (polyurethane glue). I'd like to know what could I do to remove the excess glue without damaging the veneer. Should I sand it, use a special product? thanks