christhegreat

Hi. I recently glued a flamed maple veneer on an ibanez RG, and everything was fine until I saw a crack along the grain of the wood. The crack is on the edge, about 1" long. I'm going to use alcohol-based dye after on it, and maybe do a burst. I'd like to know what options I would have to repair the crack.

thanks.

Hi. I got this product: Waxine products

You'll tell me it's in french. On the bottle of red and black stain/dye,

it's all french. The problem is that in french dye and stain both mean

the same word. In the woodworking store I was, the salesperson

didn't know the difference.

So I'd like to know if what I have is a stain or a dye.

I'll translate the info to help you out.

They say it is alcohol-based, with transparent pigments.

Colors can be blended together or diluted with methanol.

On the bottle they say it's made from:

Acetone, Diéthylène, glycol, monométhyl and methanol.

It would be great to know if the product I have is a stain or a dye

to use it as a reference for future uses.

thanks a lot.

My, my, my. Testy and contentious! Well, it is a full moon outside.

Get out the sander and erase your mistake.

I do a lot of veneering. There is, as was posted above, no way to keep glue from popping through pores if you use too much and you have a pourous wood. Squigglygrained wood is almost always pourous.

The wrong glue will always cause trouble. I recommend white glue as the easiest most forgiving for the beginner. You can also get if off if there is squeeze out using acetone.

Polyurethane glue is good for stuff that gets wet a lot and not much else. This is just my opinion but I've tried it and had numerous aggravating problems with it in other applications. Naasty messy ooky foamy sticky goo.

Contact cement is great for Formica. It doesn't however give you a rigid enough glue line for wood veneer. It also reacts with solvent based finishes. The same pores that let the glue ooze out let the finish solvents ooze in. They can make the glue expand and bubble and you get big nasty blisters in the surface. Usually when you're halfway through the final clear coats.I've used it myself way in the past and have had numerous long term problems I've had to redo.

If you seal the veneer first you are goining to have trouble because the glue will cause the veener to expand on the contact side and the finsh side will not move as much. You may actually get some buckling. I know this sounds weird but believe me it can happen.

if you want a good "cheat" here goes. Roll a thin even coat of yellow glue(like Titebond) on both surfaces. Let it dry a couple of hours. Take a clothes iron and iron the two together. No I don't do this myself, 'cause I have a vacuum press, but a friend of mine built a Federal style sideboard out of crotch mahogany. This stuff is a bear to work with and he got beautiful flat results with not a speck of bleed through. It's sitting in his dining room today and looks great after ten years. My first reaction when he asked about doing this this way was "Say what??!?", but it does work. Especially on something no larger than a guitar body. Fine Woodworking had a article describing this techinque a couple of years later.

As a general glue comment, the guy I apprenticed with taught me to spread glue on both surfaces with a credit card. Squeegee it thin enough so that you can just see the wood through the glue. Any thicker and you're wasting glue and causing yourself trouble.. The drawback is that you have a very short open time. You need everything ready to go and a spare pair of hands, "read: experienced helper" when you are ready to go, and have done a dry run first to make sure everything is there and fits. This goes for all glue ups not just veenering.

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Here it is. It's the post #32 of topic Veneer problem.

Hi there. I was suggested to use the Iron method to glue the veneer onto the guitar body. The veneer is flamed maple.

1) Spreaded titebond on both surfaces using a credit card to apply an even coat.

2) Waited a couple of hours till the glue is dried.

3) Used heat from an iron to glue the pieces together.

When I practiced on scrap, I didn't notice any shrinking, and the glue joint was solid, so I glued the veneer on the guitar. The problem is the veneer shrinked so much I have a gap of an eight of an inch between the two pieces.

I will remove the veneer, that's no problem. But I'd like to know if I did something wrong or if it is normal that the veneer shrinks a bit, and what could I do to orevent this from happening?

Thanks.

Oh. I hope it's not a common issue with the schecters.

And I do have a RG570, not a 1570, sorry for the mistake.

Anyone knows if the overall quality on 1570 is really better (except for the edge trem)? The problem anyways is that the rg sounds thin. I would like a fast feel guitar with full tone. I was wondering what the tone difference is between the C1 Exotic and the C1 Classic in terms of basic sound.

thanks

So, anyone out there has tried (or preferably owned) an Rg and those schecter models and could highlight the main differences (besides electronics)?

thanks again

I was asking because the dealer near me has the left-handed models on special order only. I played a schecter once, along with an esp ec-1000, and hated the esp. I didn't know about schecter and was a shitty player at that time, and they don't have the schecter anymore in stock.

I want to know how those model sound and feel in an objective way. I don't want to know if this one is the one I shold buy. I just want to know if the got fast and loose feel, if the body's tone is good or ok. And I don't want it to play jazz since I've already got a jazz guitar. I want to know if the C1 classic is a bright guitar, if the C1 exotic is fuller (I don't care for the pickups since I can always change them if I want).

Hi. I looked at schecter guitars, and they look like a great deal for the money. What's the catch?

I'd like to know a cuple of things also.

I'm planning on buying a C1 model.

I'm a jazz player and I'm looking for a guitar that will shred with good tone.

I have an Ibanez RG 1570. I like the action's feel, but intonation and tone are real crap, even with good pickups, and the damn LO-TRS trem won't stay in tune.

I like the fast action, but I'm looking for a little fatter neck so that the sound will be thicker and less brittle.

I was looking at the C1 classic.

Is the neck access a pain in the a** since they don't specify ultra access, or since it's a neckthrough it's easy to carve the neck access?

Also, that is the sound like? Brittle, cause of the maple neck, but does the glue of the neckthrough compensate?

Is the action loose and fast like an RG?

Is the wine of life inlay made of cheap material?

And in comparison to the C1 exotic?

Is the real maple cap really improving the tone?

How is the action compared to the two models, and compared to an RG, as it is my reference point.

Would like to get opinions and experiences.

Thanks.

Hi. I just wanted to add thanks for doc's patience.

It's my first time at veneering, and I've never worked with glues before.

I just don't know a thing, I'm not dumb. I just liked the idea of spray glue because it seemed like the best way to avoid the mistake I made first. And also, nobody said first that it was a stupid way to glue something. I just didn't know spray glue was THAT bad. I find it a little sad that people start laughing or dissing.

I'll use the iron method as suggested, and hope in the future I won't encounter people like drak in forums.

Hi. I'm going to redo it with the 3M 77 spray glue, and be very careful this time.

I just need to know one more thing.

What product should I use to remove/dissolve polyurethane glue?

Would acetone work?

Thanks a lot.

I did try sanding, and came to the point where I always see glue.

I'll remove the veneer, and try again. But I'd like to knoe what I could do to prevent this from happening again, as how to make the veneer less porous before glueing it.

Hi there. I recently glued a pomelle sapelle veneer on an Ibanez RG.

The problem is that the glue has poured through the veneer and now I have glue on the guitar top. I used ProBond glue (polyurethane glue). I'd like to know what could I do to remove the excess glue without damaging the veneer. Should I sand it, use a special product?

thanks