LightninMike

From the lower portion of the webpage, it appears they are a subsidiary of Godin....

http://www.simonandpatrick.com/intro.htm

If you've got studs on your codpiece, you stopped into the wrong bar......

Get one of those and you won't save any money. The cheap bridges are made out of pot metal and strip out easily. Especially with a headless bridge, you want the adjustments to be easy, reliable and stable

Yes it will. Use a little heat and pre-bend the binding. you will probably want to use a small piece to get the process down first before doing it on the final install. Remember that a little heat goes a long way and you can scorch the binding if you are not careful.

If you play, and want a new guitar (I know what a silly proposition! OF COURSE you want a new guitar)

TRADE them!

Have the person who wants the bodies send you something you need to build yours and they pay shipping as well

any pics for us (just in case someone wants an aluminum bodied guitar)

Sapele? (altho Koahogany is a good name as well)

So they are permanently warped? no heat and relax to get them back flat?

Very nice. Well done

For that top, a nice simple carve and then stain it with a dark honey brown. Sand it back and a nice clear finish. As ripthorn stated, no reason to go overboard when the wood already is the statement

Looking good. You mentioned you were shooting clear over the finish at this point. Make sure you shoot enough to bury the flake if you are going to sand before the template goes down. If you don't completely cover the flake, you will cut them down when you sand and they lose a lot at that stage

That fanned fret jig is great. I hope you don't mind that I shared the idea elsewhere

Wow. That is one heck of a score

Very nice. Looks like it's dipped in glass

Beautiful flow to the instrument

Very nice looking guitar. To mirror what the others have said, that is a great looking neck.

The top is going to be that quilt? If so, may I suggest you don't use the usual tele control plate? just mount directly to the top, and access through the back

Last post on this thread was in June 2009.... and the original poster of the thread hasn't been on since 2011

Beautiful. A little more on the edge carving? or keeping it about the same?

with that bridge, will it need to be recessed for height and tilt? by looking at some of the ritter basses the bridge has a slight lean to it

The curves in this bass are somewhat like looking at the curl of a wave. Very smooth, powerful and beautiful

It seems that guitar was "printed in 19 hours". 3D printing has come an amazingly long way over the past few years. The media that is printed with is most certainly not carbon fiber.

It's cool that the gears turn and all, but talking points more than anything

. I was thinking I could use dowel centers or something similar set into the threaded brass neck inserts, drop the neck straight down into the pocket (the only way it can go in, given the compound bevel pocket) and then tap to mark the bolt centers. Suggestions?

sounds like a good plan, just be mindful of the taper as it won't exactly fall in, although if you use short screws cut off and sharpened it should be fine with a good eye and a steady hand

So the pocket is 1/16" oversize all around

it winds up being 1/32" to each side of the pocket or the neck

and 1/16" on the bottom of the pocket or neck

If it is a neck you want to use later, then do it in the pocket

Since you mentioned Alembic:

They built, through their connection to the Grateful Dead, one of the first recognized and used pre-amps in a guitar. The Strat-O-Blaster. It is simply a unity gain buffer. It can be used as a booster although it tends to change the tone dramatically as the gain increases.

When I built my first guitar, I built a multiple gain staged onboard pre-amp. single/bucker/bucker with on/off swtiching and coil taps on the buckers. there is an onboard stereo effects loop with its own volume control, two tone controls (treble and bass) and a straight guitar volume. taking the fx loop out of the equation, you can have the sound of a lot of different guitars. Then blend in the color you want.

The pre is touch sensitive more akin to an acoustic than an electric - the sound doesn't change, it just gets louder.

Does it work? yes. Is it complete overkill? yes.

You hit the nail on the head.

OR

i don't know if this would work as it is a bottom bit, but maybe

http://www.rockler.com/bevel-router-bit-3-8-x-7-degree-1-4-shank?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&utm_campaign=PL&gclid=CIDrn6bBirwCFcFj7AodXggAqQ

with some modification to the bit(remove the bearing portion), it would work.

You will need to set the template at a 7* angle to accomplish what you want

fill the sides in with cutoff wood in the same grain orientation.

then line up your template - one with a centerline on it and a centerline on the body drawn in pencil

drawing the centerline will be interesting due to the compound angles in the pocket

route the pocket

You would measure it from where each E string would fall on the nut, not a centerline measurement

Since you have a string through, just make a metal string ferrule block. ground that and all your strings will be grounded