BeerHunter

Deft can be had at just about any hardware store.

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I couldn't find any Deft clear In Canada very easily. Thankfully, through this site, I was referred to Lee Valley Tools.

Awesome product IMA.

Beer hunter, is that a grizzly kit?  It looks like it... if so, how does it sound? Im looking into buying one

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Yes this is a Grizzly kit. I think it sounds great. I want to build another. This time the LP style.

I put 11's on this guitar so the sustain is awesome. The pickups sound like my Duncan Designed pickups but only a little hotter. There are no markings at all on them so I have no idea what they really are.

I put up a website of the build at http://members.shaw.ca/ljeeves/grizzly_build_project.htm

It looks and plays better than any guitar that I could have bought for the same price or more.

In this picture you can see what it looks like after a quick sandback in the center. I'd "think" that you could control the sandback to get your desired effect. I wasn't going for a burst finish so I ended up sanding it evenly.

I live in Canada, so does anyone have any idea where I could pick this stuff up?

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I live in Canada and found everything I needed at Lee Valley Tools. A little expensive but they offer up quality products. Google them and you will find locations throughout Canada.

Beerhunter,

That looks awesome!  You were using a veneer right?  So just take it easy on the ol' sanding after you dye it black huh?  I can't wait to get a nice blue like you got there.  Where did you get your dye? and what type is it?  I think most people are telling me to forget the sanding sealer.

1.  Pore fill (with what?)

2.  Dye black, Sand back

3.  Apply blue dyes

4.  Sand small amount if needed/add more dye

5.  Clearcoat

6.  Buff and enjoy the coolest custom axe around!

This seems like the steps to take? yes?

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I did a step by step photo shoot

of the build. This was a Grizzly kit and was my first dye attempt. I just finished this project so I haven't had a chance to update the info on the last photos but none the less, this should give you an idea of what I did. Yes, it was a veneer and a thin one at that. I didn't sand much at all, like I said, just some 300 and 600 grit.

You have to watch out for sealed venneer if you are going to dye. The dye won't soak in evenly.

Fun stuff. I want to do a LP style with a lemon burst next.

1>  should I dye it black first then (carefully) sand back then dye blue?

2>  does dye work through sanding sealer?

3>  what type of sealer do you reccomend?

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1> That's what I did

2> Nope.

3> I didn't use any. I just sanded with 600 grit, then I did a couple of quick bursts of clear and primered. I'm sure that using a sealer would be better in most cases but for me it worked.

Close Up

I want to thank you all for your help in this project. I could not have done it without you. What an awesome site!

Larger closeup

Grizzlys guitar have a veneer top! It won't take stain (dye), you will need to paint it with a toner coat instead!

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Too late my friend. I already did it prior to reading this post. I have been reading for days on this site and there is references all over the place to dying vaneers. Is this your opinion or why can't it be dyed. FYI - it was not sealed when I got it. Just the back was sealed. It has been 2 days and so far no problems are showing. Is this a problem that is going to rear its ugly head later? I plan to seal it tonight so I guess I need to know if I should still proceed.

Thanks,

Lonnie

Oh ya, I had the order messed up. I did the black and sand back first. then the blue dye. I decided against the burst so that step will be taken out.

We have some pretty good plant sprayers that I use to use for window tinting. That might do the trick. They atomize pretty good. Can the splatter spots be blended afterwards? I'm just looking to darken the edge a bit to highlight the carve top.

Thanks

Hey Southpa,

Looks awesome. I'm thinking of using the same spray bottle technique (blue burst)for my project on quilted maple. Any tips on using the spray bottles?

Thanks

Hi everyone,

I've decided that for this (my second project - noob here) I would build a Grizzly guitar kit. This kit comes with a quilted maple top. I plan to do a blue burst on it.

I've learned a lot from this site and have a pretty good idea how to aproach this (I think).

I've gathered a bunch of info and this is the plan so far

-prep body, wet, sand do this twice with 220

-mask and spray binding with clear vinyl lacquer

-dye it black with aniline dye. Use strong solution. Let dry and sand back.

-spray with sanding sealer

-spray black for burst

-spray sealer

-dye bright blue until desired brightness

-spray with sealer

-mask neck pocket etc

-spray with clear (no gear, gotta use rattle can) lacquer.

Am I missing any steps??

Can you use a spray (mist) bottle to do dye work?? It seems to me that it would work well for the burst but it is just an idea.

Thanks and take care,

Lonnie

real anilyne dyes blows the fabric colors clear out of the water, the colors available with real anilyne dyes are just gorgeous, and come in many many many colors

This I didn't know which is why I started looking at alternatives. Very cool. When I was looking a ReRanch they didn't seem to have too many colors (only 8 water based and 11 alcohol based).

Thanks for all the tips and such. I'm going to head down to Lee Valley Tools and pick my dye up from there.

One other question though. How do you keep the dye from bleeding into the binding? Or can you? I read that you just have to scrape it off but doesn't it seep in quite deep?

BTW - this site contains a huge amount of information and it is a little hard to find and digest what I read. Thanks for your patience while I ask questions that I'm sure you have answered many times before.

Lee Valley Tools carries aniline dyes in Canada.

FWIW, any dye that works well on cotton should work well on wood (they're both cellulose fibers, after all), but I'd be very suspicious of the light-fastness of any fabric dye.

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Hey thanks a lot lovekraft! This place is really close to me.

BTW - I've dropped the fabric dye idea - lol. Seems like a touchy subject. Sorry guys, not trying to rattle anyone's cage. IMO, it never hurts to ask.

Even I use it! 

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Given the fact that I live beside one of the biggest rodeo towns in Canada, we have saddle shops all over. This is why I ask. Easy access to a wide variety of colors.

Cheers guys!

BTW - thegarehanman, I looked for LGMGuitars but I couldn't find his username listed on this site. Is there a typo? There were two Jeremy's but it didn't look like either one of them.

Send Jeremy (LGMGuitars) a PM. He'll know where to buy dye from in Canada.

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Thanks thegarehanman I'll do that.

Ya, I saw the other thread about (dare I say) food coloring and such but I would have thought that fabric dye is pretty color fast. I used to dye nylon parts with it on my R/C car and it has not faded after 10 years. That's using the car in direct sunlight as well.

I will without a doubt, go with the masses if it is a bad idea. I just thought it would work as well and is available in the color I want. I'm in no way looking to cheap out.

Also, I Googled "anilyne dye supplier in Canada" and the first hit was a leather dye. Is it th same thing?

hey all,

I've done a 1 color spray project before and now I'm on to a translucent finish. I have a PRS style body with a quilted maple top that I would like to stain red. I've been to reranch etc and have browsed these forums for quite awhile now.

Can someone please double check my plan?

I'm thinking I can get a box of red fabric dye. Anytime I've dyed stuff I've done it in hot dye. Should the dye be hot when I dye wood? Is it a bad idea to use fabric dye (it is available in the color I want).

When using dye like this, how do I keep it from seeping into the bindings? Am I better off to do a burst?

I then plan to do the same thing as I did with my other guitar and that is spray it with clear acrylic laquer. Is there any prep work that you should do to the dyed body before spraying the clear? I was going to spray about 10 coats of clear and then wet sand to remove any orange peel. Then bring up the finish with Autoglaze 3 (I think it is) and then Autoglaze 1.

Is this a good plan?

Oh ya, I'm in Canada and I can't get solvents/sprays and such across the border very easily so reranch/others is out.