Power Violence

Ok seymour duncan's wiring charts are really weird... and to me it doesn't look like it should work

if that diagram is correct

What are your humbucker wiring color codes?

All Seymour Duncan humbuckers with four-conductor hookup wires incorporate a standard wire color code.

Green = beginning of adjustable coil

Red = finish of adjustable coil

Black = beginning of stud coil

White = finish of stud coil

For standard series humbucking operation on a 4-Conductor wired humbucker the White & Red wires are soldered together and taped; Green is ground and Black is Hot Output. The bare wire is also grounded.

so the two finishes are wired together...

Wouldn't that be in phase parrallel instead of in phase series like it is supposed to be?

cool beans

No problem

I want a guitar like Jimmy Page, but I don't know how to wire all the push pull knobs. Anyone know or know where I can find out?

http://www.guitarelectronics.com/diagrams/.../oem/jplp2.html

also there is a duncan pickup one on there too

okay jeez i used the wrong term but the diagram and info i gave you refers to what you are after.just substitute the word splitting for tapping.

what i am trying to say is that i and thousands of other guitarists already do this.all you have to do is follow the diagram that matches what you want on seymourduncan.com

actually it seems to be completley diffrent, because I want to use two on/off switches other than one on/on switch.

and guitar electronics looks like it might have it. Thanks

I like mine (I.e. my rich drummer's) 100 W Trace Elliot

http://www.trace-elliot.com/electric/strampquad.html

I heard it was a jazz amp, and not good for real big distortion, but it holds up with my digitech metal master, and also its got a nice spring reverb on it (I wish I could turn it off and on, meh) which makes it sound good when playing ska. I swear to god I have not once used the crazy quad chorus but it is really nice the double distortion is a bit nuts (figuring that I have a digitech metal master) but the clean/distrotion change is nice.

I think I am going to buy him another channel selector (So that I can abuse both the channel selector AND the boost)

Do I work for trace-elliot?

No

Would I for a nice head and cab?

Yes

One cannot correclty rock with such a large neck!

dude matia that is the best "fender"ive ever seen it rocks!!! hey what should i do to my mustang?

give it to me

you mean coil tapping?it's done all the time.here it is

that's why they have those extra wires

What is a coil tap?

A coil tap refers to a lead connected to an individual coil’s winding and is used to raise and lower a pickup’s output and change its tone. This is most often utilized on single coil pickups where the player wants a higher output pickup but also wants to be able to switch to a lower output and more vintage-type tone using the same pickup. Many of our pickups for Strat® and Tele® are available in tapped versions for an additional $1 - $11, depending on the model. In addition,you can special order a "Shop Floor Custom" tapped version of any other pickup for an upcharge of $12.

What is coil splitting?

Coil splitting refers to the ability to disable one coil in a humbucker-type pickup. This offers the player option of getting a single coil-type tone from a humbucker-loaded guitar. Many pickups have three- or four-conductor wiring that allows for one coil to be disabled by shorting one coil to either ground or hot. All production Seymour Duncan humbuckers can be purchased with four-conductor wiring either stock from the factory or as a Production Floor Custom order. The exceptions to this rule are the Vintage Rails (SVR-1) and Duckbuckers (SDBR-1), which are wired internally in parallel from the factory

I want the second one.

I was wondering if anyone would know how to make a humbucker (I was thinking a duncan distortion) have a way to select if an indivdual pick up be selected and when both are selected they would function as a humbucker (series).

I made a wiring schemeatic for it, but I don't think it will work.

Eh?

I'm doing this right now. I have to wait for a StewMac order to arrive before it's complete, but I use red LEDs powered off a 9v battery. As far as I know, you have to have a battery. I use a stereo jack for the switch. As soon as I get clear epoxy and the pot to control to LEDs blinking, I'll be done.

How would you make it blink?

That reminds me less of flames and more of that crazy melting watch picture. Is the sustain effected at all?

I've never seen a lower knob that's numbered. You might be able to find a top one to fit on that would work, but I don't think you're going to find a lower one (not much surface to put numbers on. A black strat-style knob over a knurled (normal concentric) style would look pretty sweet...

Where were you wanting to put numbers on the knob?

I thought that you also could probably use a regular strat one for the top

maybe have the bottom (which is bigger) have like 0-10 in a circle on the flat side.

Meh, if I cant think of a way I will just make the bottom tone, which I generally just set to either 0 or 10.

I have seen only one type of knob for cocentric pots and I was curious as a strat man myself if there were any numbered knobs for the sweet Concentric set up I think my custom guitar is going to have (I love having a friend's dad who builds guitars)

www.guitarelectronics.com has a nice selection of all kinds of knobs and stuff, I like the Fender TBX things

I hope you post some cool pictures to see how it works, I am having my friends dad build me a body and I am just thinking of something to make it special from a regular company guitar, is your cavity that big?

I thought I had it but I don't... grr..

I want to have a guitar with two humbuckers each having a kill switch, coil tap, volume, and tone pots. So far I've worked on my own diagram

is nearly complete, the only problem is the two outputs...

I've based it on this SD wiring mod

I would like to use a 2 way switch and wire it in such a way that the Neck PU goes into its own output and the Bridge PU goes into its own output.

is how I want to be and :o is how I am now.

thanks for your help

Floyd Rose, I heard you had to completly disasemble it if a string breaks.

Completely disassemble?

Not quite.

Your guitar will go out of tune, and you need to have some allen wrenches handy to replace a string.

You unlock the nut, and you unlock the "pad" in the bridge itself, snip off the ball end of the new string, insert it into the bridge, tighten the "pad", feed the string through the nut (unless you remove the locking pad completely), feed the string into the tuner, snip of the excess, wind it up, stretch the string (repeatedly, for tuning stability), tune, lock the nut, and you're good to go.

Back in the day, when I was really up to speed, I could change a complete set of strings, and intonate the sucker in about 15-20 minutes.

With a good quality "Floyd" (one that stays in tune, no low-end cheap crap!) the only drawback is that you go out of tune when you break a string.

ok cool beans thanks

I was thinking about building a new guitar and out of all the bridges which one do you guys think is the best with a whammy bar?

Floyd Rose, I heard you had to completly disasemble it if a string breaks.

Wilkonsons, I haven't heard too much about this

Bigsby, good?

Floating Trem, This looks the coolest but I heard it had bridge problems