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jamesj

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Posts posted by jamesj

  1. I was wet sanding my brothers Tele and water got in the screw holes, it raised a couple Streaks/strips down the body about 8" long. I guess the wood swelled.... any way I had to strip it all back down and start over, I am now pluging the holes with screws and I will do my best to sand around them. Has anyone else ran into this and if so what was your cure?

    Thanks

  2. I'm thinking of adding a set of these as an 'upgrade' to my Pacifica, and maybe to use them on a forthcoming Lap Steel project as well.

    Now, despite the name, I understand that they're not truly 'locking' tuners.  BUT, due to the simple engineering, I wonder if they're at least an improvement over standard tuners.  I can't find an official Wilkinson site, but an eBay auction describes them:

    Brand new and really cool. A great full sized 3x3 tuner set with famous Wilkinson quality. These feature string post holes drilled at 90 degrees from each other. Pull the string through one hole real tight, wrap 3/4 around the post, pull tight through the other hole. Tune to pitch, cut the string- DONE. Use the top hole first for the E, A and D, use the bottom hole first for the G, B and E and on many guitars you have enough stagger to do away with the string tree!

    Here's the eBay auction while the link's still alive: Click me!

    Basically, the short version is that there are 2 holes instead of the 1 that goes through standard tuner posts. They're also staggered in height, though that's not a big deal for me. Because they're not straight, the windings have more 'grab' when you tune to pitch, meaning that you don't have to have as many wraps, and that they should theoretically hold on better than a standard tuner.

    The other option, if I don't go with these, is the "locking tuners" (doesn't seem to say brand name or anything) found for $30US (+shipping) at WD music. The Wilkinson ones are $27 + shipping from GuitarFetish eBay store. The WD one seem more like 'true' locking tuners, but not necessarily high quality. The locking mechanism looks suspect, and they're certainly "no-name" tuners.

    Neither seem to indicate the gear ratio, though the generic (ie. $9.99 if they were bought retail, I'd wager!) tuners on the Pacifica aren't going to be any better so it's pretty much a non-issue.

    Greg

    I have a set on an in progress guitar, havent strung them yet but they seem nice.

    Email a couple people who purchased them and ask, I do it and for every 3 I get 1 reply. I ask allot of ebayers about products they purchased.

  3. It came in yesterday evening! Its great! I recomend it to anyone wanting a lower priced 12 string acoustic/electric. It plays great the strings arent hard to push and the sound is amazing! Its not a small guitar its full sized, binding on front, back and the neck, it has a "mosiac" stripe down the back and on the bottom. the tuners are quality, they look like the more expensive type although they are not locking. It actually seems eaiser to play than my samick 6 string acoustic. I do have to use a pick.... I subconciencely count the strings when I finger pick, and on the 12 it throws me off, but with the pick I hardly have a problem. It is my new toy so I havent let anyone touch it yet :D My Daughter wants to try it, but hey as my dad use to say " let me lick the red off my candy first!" It plays so easy and sounds so good, I feel like its my birthday! :D

  4. Anyone used these before?  I was thinking the wood putty might work as a grain filler (over mahoghany), then using one of the polyshades for colour then finishing up with either the wipe-on poly or the can poly.  I'm having a hell of a time trying to find something good for grain filling.  I've looked at the 2-part epoxies but either they're the wrong colour or they're the 5 minute type. :D

    Thanks. B)  :D

    Whats wrong with the 5 minute type? Thats what I'm using. If your "ready" 5 minutes is plenty of time to put it on.

  5. Cool

    Thanks for the tips!

    I'm headed to work now (got to go measure a couple jobs) and I'll pick the supplies up while I'm out and about.

    Do you think Black sides will look ok on the tele? I Had tearouts and outs, I used the glue and sanding dust method th fill them, it worked but it isnt pretty, and it came out as dark patches. The neck is painted black I figure painting the "edge" is my only choice.... I could paint the back too but it looks great.

  6. I have 2 misplaced holes to patch, I am using dark wood filler (by elmers glue I think) They are under the pick gaurd so exact color match is no biggie, The guitar is a solid Padauk tele. I had considered using the filler to fill the grain, then after sanding just clearcoat it. I'm using a 2 part clear (the clear and medium speed hardner) Will this work or is that wood filler on the grain a bad Idea?

  7. I was just talking to my buddy from the caddy shop, he said the reason the fan blow in instead of sucking out is dust in the cracks of the shop, if you pressure the room stuff blows out of the room, if you vacum the room, well you get the idea. He also said their floors are vented, like a raised metal grating with filters underneath. he guessed at a quater mill price tag.......

  8. Sound like your daughter has serious issues with that wood. Wow. Man, if that's really it then do what's best for her. I have severe reactions to cocobolo and lacewood even wearing a tyvek suit and resperator, but it only sends me to the doctor. Your daughter reacts much worse by the sounds of it.  B)

    Those woods you mentioed all have different properties especially mahogany and poplar. They are easier to cut.  Rosewood and padauk are very similar with respects grain structure and workability. They will splinter badly especially diagonal to the grain so a spiral cutter head or robo-sander could be a better choice for body shaping.

    If you invest in another saw blade, analyze what you migh use it for the most. Over the years I have found 50 - 60 tooth tripple chip blades are great for all around cutting of hard woods and exotics. Oh, NEVER use the same blade on both hard and soft woods unless you clean it like new after cutting soft stuff.

    By the way, why do you need a piece 20" wide? :D I once had a guy order a neck through neck with a 4 foot long heel...never could figure out how he would go about carrying a 7 foot guitar.... :D

    -Doug

    I keep her away from the shop, She can be around the wood, but not when its "in the air" cutting routing etc... Thats why I suggested leaving it alone, Its the first time she ever had a reaction to anything of a wood type origin. Its not worth it. I read the "toxicity" thread and it didnt sound as bad as Mahogany, but reactions are different with different people.

    I'm getting a dust collector next week, the big shop vac works half a$$, but is way to much noise.

  9. possum,

    My Daughters sinuses run down the back of her throat, and cause a strep throat type feeling to her, shes 13 and We took her to the Doc for strep, She's had it last year and told me thats what was wrong with her, Doc said the Padauk..... she gets worse every time she gets around it. Another user told me even 10 years from now if shes exposed it will be a worse effect. If you have no reaction your fine though . My sinuses are bad but the Padauk only hurts my tools...

    Geoff , Yes the paper mask, My respirator I paint with may be what I need to use but its so big and bulky..... My shop has a slight orange tint also! lol

    doug, Maybe the wrong blades but no problems with Mahogany, Maple, oak, Cherry, Saple, or poplar, Thats all the woods I have cut. Nothig really exotic.

    Not the good blades (Vermont America brand). Not sharp enough router bits may be the tear out culprit..... but.... Same equipment, problems only with the Padauk.

  10. I would leave it alone..... I'm working on a Padauk Tele, It gums up sand paper quick. eats blades like I eat M&Ms, tears out easy, and you will be digging orange crap out your nose for days. and yes I was wearing a mask...... The Orange dust makes your sinuses go wild. My Daughter cant go around it without getting ill. Its pretty but I wont use it again.

  11. That looks like mine. After checking the box there are 2 guns still in it both large, 1 for primer, 1 paint... The 1.0 tip is what I'm using in the little gun The big ones have a 1.3 and a 2.0 in them. The 2.0 says its is for the primer (higher solids content?) Any how I have had great luck with it. I always paint a box first (card board) to get it adjusted, then wipe with reducer, first 2 light coats then refill and spray again 3-4 lite coats, (I go smoke and coke between coats) that finishes it up for a couple days. Wet sand, let dry, wipe with reducer, then spray again. and its ready for polishing next weekend.

    (for those wondering

    its the drinking kind)

  12. Mine is a Vaper (off brand of some major company I think) but its HVLP, gravity fed. I have used the bottom feed type from lowes (devilbiss) on motorcycles and they worked great, but the big devilbiss gun sucked, the tip was too big and orange peeled like crazy, I bought the Vaper set when people started paying me. I have a friend who does paint work for the Cadillac dealer and he uses the same guns (Vapor) and on new caddys it matters..... The touch up is all you need

  13. Hey

    I was wondering would anyone have the know-how or the schematic of the Framptone talk box or the danelectro free speech talk box, cos id love to experiment with em, but i dont have the money to buy 1, so i though i might try to build 1.  any help fellas?

    thanks in advance

    luke

    :D  :D

    To do it you need a "horn speaker compressor" I think its called, (the bottom the plastic horn part mounts to) also a practice amp, some 3/8 or 1/2" vinyl tubing. you wire your practice amps speaker output to the compressor, put it in a box, run the tube from the horn mount to your mouth and walla! its not very loud or band worthy without a mike /PA system.

    I'm designing a better model myself but need a "mini amp" like the belt/ earphone size.... So I can use it without at PA system ....

  14. I have never "touched" a V but one is in the planning stage for me. I'm not sure about the size,  so I got the cad file. Am I reading this cad file correct? 17" at widest point and 44 3/4" at the longest point? does that sound about right?

    Thanks!

    mines 15.7" @ the widest

    the body is 19.2" long

    the net length including headstock is 42.4"

    so from the looks of it yours is bigger than mine, as well as longer. considering i have what many people are calling a "huge" headstock....well you see where im going with this...

    im like you too. never "touched" a V really. when i started designing this though i went down to my local guitar shop and played around with one of the Jackson KV's they had on the shelf and found it pretty cool and something i could get used to so im just crossing my fingers from here on :D

    Thanks for the info, I think Im going with the Gibson measurements (a friends husband is bringing me one to measure) and adjusting the body to fit my taste.

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