azycoona

hey ther ive carved a neck outa vic ash but have not yet put it to use i have to say it is one of the hardest woods ive ever seen and a very pourus wood,jim dyson from brisbane makes some of hes guitars with it,its realy heavy but got a dead straight grain using the tap method its not very resonate at all i would say it would give a very bright sound but still i dont know for sure thats why im not gonna use it,in my opinion nothing beats queensland maple for ballsy clean low end tone and is the backbone of maton,belman,cole clark and heaps of aussie luthiers cheers azy

hi ther im new to wiring dont really know much about it but gonna have an attemp on rewiring a tele with vintage noiseless pickup set, my question is what kind of pot should i use 250 ,500,or 1 meg, does it matter please help

hi ther check out wren timbers they usally have some nice tonewood depends what tone ya after but queensland maple is a popular choice for aussies and it has a real low end tone like mahogony and fairly cheap,i got a belman,it is all q maple and i couldnt be more happy with the tone cheers azy

hi ther i got a wamoth neck for my ol strat a few years back great constrution, but i wished i picked a different wood cause it sounds tinny, my sugestion is pick a deep sounding wood like rosewood or mahogony for either a body or a neck cheers see ya

hey ther im looking for the tonal qualitys of victorian ash, if anyones has used this wood please reply

hi ther im looking for opinions on earvarna nuts do they really solve the intonation problem are they worth buying ?

hi ther jason nice picture and nice work thanks for replying ive just turned amiture luthier over the last year im making a guitar for a freind out of queensland maple the guitars gonna be a tele copy with a glued in neck ive left the neck base twice as thick like a les paul or a belman mmmm i beta go buy a plane so i can laminate this body i have 3 pieces of timber 2 peices that look like 4x2 bits and say a 6x2 bit for the middle mmm tricky please if anyone has ideas on how i should go about laminating it, sacred cows are cool

Personally I don't have a planer/jointer so I try to use the edges that come surfaced from my dealer.  On the neck I'm doing I glued 3 pieces of wood, 2 pieces rock maple and 1 piece jatoba.  I was unsure if the surface would be ok but I was assured by some of the good builders here that I didn't need to do anything to that surface.  I was under the impression that sanding the surface would give the joint more strength, but I was wrong, everyone told me otherwise.  The smoother the surface the better the bond, and now after glueing a bit of stuff I would have to agree.  I used titebond the original for my joints and it seems to work better than anything I have ever used.  And in the past I have had to glue a fair amount of wood, and nothing compares to titebond in my eyes.  I know there are other glues similar now to titebond but if you can I would get titebond the original.  I would say most people here use titebond.

So if you have a planer then by all means use it, I hear this will give you the best surface for glueing, a freshly planed surface.  To me I wouldn't want to use a hand planer but I'm sure that if you bought a really nice one that was big enough to get a flat surface it would work ok, I know people do that, although I would feel a great deal safer with a machine.  So good luck with your project!  What exactly are you doing, a neck, a body, or both?  Here's a pic of the neck I'm working on, I'll be cutting it soon on the bandsaw.  What ever you do make sure you have fun!  Thats why I do it.  Later.  Jason

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b256/jmrentis/ebay093.jpg

Glued up laminate neck

←

OK, that's twice....DO NOT copy pics when quoting.......

Personally I don't have a planer/jointer so I try to use the edges that come surfaced from my dealer.  On the neck I'm doing I glued 3 pieces of wood, 2 pieces rock maple and 1 piece jatoba.  I was unsure if the surface would be ok but I was assured by some of the good builders here that I didn't need to do anything to that surface.  I was under the impression that sanding the surface would give the joint more strength, but I was wrong, everyone told me otherwise.  The smoother the surface the better the bond, and now after glueing a bit of stuff I would have to agree.  I used titebond the original for my joints and it seems to work better than anything I have ever used.  And in the past I have had to glue a fair amount of wood, and nothing compares to titebond in my eyes.  I know there are other glues similar now to titebond but if you can I would get titebond the original.  I would say most people here use titebond.

So if you have a planer then by all means use it, I hear this will give you the best surface for glueing, a freshly planed surface.  To me I wouldn't want to use a hand planer but I'm sure that if you bought a really nice one that was big enough to get a flat surface it would work ok, I know people do that, although I would feel a great deal safer with a machine.  So good luck with your project!  What exactly are you doing, a neck, a body, or both?  Here's a pic of the neck I'm working on, I'll be cutting it soon on the bandsaw.  What ever you do make sure you have fun!  Thats why I do it.  Later.  Jason

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b256/jmrentis/ebay093.jpg

Glued up laminate neck

←

Don't copy pics when quoting.

hi ther im just starting to make guitars and thought it would be a good idea to jion forum, can anyone shed some info on laminating wood for best results to get a good jion, do straight edges just come with good planeing?and im finding it hard to find titebond without sending away for it ,are ther anys kind of araldite glue that would do as good a job please if any one knows shed some info