Reaper

U.G.L.Y. you ain't got no alibi you UGLY!!(bum,bom,bom,tish) you UGLY!!

yeah i just don't like it.reminds me of a dog with two butts

Lol, no kidding, man.

Crossbreeding gone horribly wrong.

I think the point he's (correctly) trying to make is that just because it's natural don't mean it's safe, or healthy, or good for you.

Sorry, I typed that out in 10 seconds because I was late heading off for work. Yes, that is what I meant. I honestly don't care what people do so long as it doesnt interfere with me. If I get hit by a drunk/stoned/psycho mf'er and they are all "Derr....." I am curb stomping them. Perhaps they should legalize all drugs. The potential for the users to end up sterile, dying from OD, and/or not coming to work would lead to a drastic population reduction of ***holes. I've dealt with drunks, druggies, and morons thoughout my life and watched them self destruct. I also work out at a casino where gambling addicts run in everyday and complain about the machines. When they complain, I just tell them to stop and go home...Never works, but its the truth. "Man, this stuff isn't going to hurt you, but man, I gotta cut back." Then stop.

Yes, hundreds of elements and vegatables found/grown/cultured naturally are lethal. Think Poison Oak: all natural, non addicting, tasty, good for you.

Sorry for the tangent, but the gambling thing just reminded me of this: http://www.illwillpress.com/smok.html

Enjoy, and carry on!

ONe thing that I hate is that because it came from nature, it is therefore okay to smoke.

But allow me to stress the following point;

Cyanide is also a naturally occuring gas

Sulfuric Acid is naturally occuring

Uranium is found in nature (in small quatities)

All of which is from that same source and therefore good for you.

Or for that matter, tobacco. I never could understand why anyone would intentionally inhale smoke (pot, tobacco, or anything else).

Bertbart: possession of pot is a crime, meaning that those who posess it are criminals. Real, life criminals - not like the ones in my head. Whether or not you agree with the law has zero impact on whether or an action is, in fact, a crime.

I don't pretend to understand amps and loads and so forth, but if you mismatch inputs and outputs, and do not sufficiently load the amps at various stages, amongst other concerns (all stemming from the fact that amps aren't designed to run into one another), you can wreak havoc on one or both of your amps.

Correct. Maximum power is transferred across a voltage divider when the impedances are equal. It's possible to design a network to match the two, but frankly, it's a pain in the ass to do, with regards to finding the right component values to exactly match the network, and to get the proper bandwidth parameters (in the end, it also has the effect of acting as a sort of wideband filter).

If you have the option of either an efects loop or a pre-amp output, you could use the pre-amp distortion as an input to another amplifier's power amp, or possibly as a double preamp (but that would be kind of redundant, and probably sound like ass). Those would be matched to the standard impedance of most equipment.

Looks good! Especially if you did all those dots by hand.

Even if excessive routing DOES kill sustain, I don't think the extra two ounces of wood they punch out of that Squier are really going to have a huge impact on the tone or sustain of the instrument.

Yah, with the boost/cut I meant 9volt

So... What about a pushpull for the volumes of two pickups; put a LP's controls into two knobs

I've never seen what you're describing (a push pull so that each switch position selects a different pot internally), and frankly, I'm not sure it's mechnically feasible....

But you could look into these: concentric pots (Concentric pots at warmoth) Two shafts, two stacked knobs, directly on top of one another. Wire your volume to one, tone to the other.

Welcome to the site!

I just saw the post about Solid Edge. I think that in the mid-level 3D CAD market - this means Solid Edge, Solid Works, and Inventor - SolidWorks is the best...and the other 2 are trailing. We use SW at work and it's a great package.

I gotta get my jabs in for Rhino though...Rhino does some surface stuff that SW just doesn't do. SW is a much more well rounded package, but Rhino is a fraction of the cost...

I don't know SW, so I'll defer to your judgment and experience on that.

In my experience, Inventor (which I used for three years of highschool), absolutely blows SE out of the water from an ease-of-use perspective. And FWIW, I know that I'm not alone on either of my opinions regarding SE and Inventor.

Punchline: use what makes you happy. While I can't speak for all programs out there, I would advise you to stay away from solid edge. And there lies my two cents.

they cannot accept drawings with splines on them.

Tonemonkey - could you explain? Do you mean something like an LP carved top?

GuitarEng - where are you located?

Also (anyone) this is a good animated demo of Rhino:

http://www.k2cnc.com/videos/GuitarProjectw...thCallouts.html

Bottomline: if I were to invest in just *ONE* software package, would Rhino be the one? ...that would allow me to model the guitar AND then bring the dwg file (and the wood) to a shop w a K2/Haas/Fadal?

I'll let GuitarEng answer that last one, but just my two cents on the CAD packages: SolidEdge is the standard CAD program at our school, and frankly, most mech-types curse it. I had to use it myself for the first-year drafting course, and I'm glad I don't have to go back to it ever again. It's a pain in the ass to use, and I found that it was generally weaker than some of its bretheren.

Not meaning to butt in, but WAY too many bad experiences with that program to be silent and still be able to maintain my conscience.

9v battery might work a bit better than a pen.

I don't know what software Haas or Fadal might be using to operate - they may just run off a straight *.nc file. The primary toolpath software that I've seen is Mastercam, but that's not really something you'd use at home (fairly expensive, and not very easy to use). I also think that Mastercam has to be configured to your particular machine's specs (ie, you need to know the right numbers to set up the tools before it lays down paths with them, or all your dimensions are going to be off).

Most of the toolpath software packages will also have 3-D positioning for the head of the cutting tool - it's not likely just going to punch out the outline in a clean sweep, especially on something as thick as a guitar, and is probably going to require a couple of passes.

You best bet? Use a CAD file, and let them convert it. If you know of a place, call and ask (heh, they'll for sure be the best source for answers to what you've just asked).

NB: my experience in this stuff is a few years out of practice, so if I've said anything wrong here, and stepped on my crank, please speak up.

This might do ya... (I don't know for sure, but Rhodes would be floyd-routed, right?)

http://www.guitarbuildingtemplates.com/RandyRhodes.htm

Well, if you really know your stuff regarding electronics, then consider inventing new and unique effects pedals and similar devices. There's a niche market for bizarre sounding, hand built guitar pedals.

That's going to be only marginally easier to get started in (due to the cost of purchasing a strange pedal vs strange axe), but to even get to Keeley's level, you have to have a lot of background, and the general path would be roughly the same (speculating here, but I don't think it's unreasonable).

Keep in mind, you also have to be able to offer something new and different in that regard. If all you do is make a generic clone of a Boss pedal, a lot of folks are going to say "f*** it", and buy the Boss. You have to know what is going to modify each pedal in each direction, and how you want to shift your filters and time constants, gain stages, and matching networks to push the pedal in the right direction. You can do it, and if you make it big, you can make a fair bit of cash, but you really have to know what you're doing.

I'll agree with russ: if you're looking for a side gig to the architecture thing, working as a tech might be the way to go. I'd also recommend (if you can) get as much experience as you can doing your own work, then see if a small store might take you in (working for free, or minimum wage) working with one of their techs until you get enough experience to fly solo on that.

The primary reason is that if someone's going to drop that kind of scratch for a custom axe, they're going to get it customized to THEIR options.

I'm 21, and while not a mechie-type, I'm a EE/math student up here in the Great White North. It's a bit cold, but hell if the beer isn't worth it. (I'm kinda suprised to see the relatively large Canuck population on this place)

While I'm not playing with mech design s*** here, I definitely got a fair dose of that through my HS tech courses (CNC programming, CAD systems, robotics, and all that...). Though frankly, I'm starting to move away from the eng systems and more into the applied math field. It sho' would be nice to own a CNC setup, though...

Oh, yeah, I almost forgot.... Matlab pwnz ur souls, n00bs!

I don't have any experience with a low-resistance wiring, so I'm afraid I'm of no use there.

Typically the ground point is the bridge (usually, I've picked a point on the inside of the control cavity, grounded everything there, then run a wire from that point up to one of the bridge screws).

Isn't "yummy loads" a spam flick...?

Congrats on the engagement!

Just my two cents here: if you want custom for <2k, I'd go for a Carvin.

Penetration conjures some different images.

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With a soldering iron? That ain't right....

The Planet Waves Auto-Trim Locking Tuners are just awesome. They stay in tune just like the Sperzels (imho even better) and as a great extra they automatically cut the string! I am just in love with them and would definitely recommend you to check them out... This tuners at Stew-Mac

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I used those on my first project. I'd use them again.

There's a non-tune-o-matic at stewmac: http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bridges,_tailp...ric_Guitar.html.

Probably not quite what you want, but if you run out of options...

Ok quite simple.... can you point me to some good online stores for buying guitar necks.... I've found that one big one, but with the black finish I want, it will be horendously expensive. Im looking for a neck with a gibson-style headstock, in black.

Where do I look to buy one?

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A couple things:

1) What scale?

2) I take it you're looking for a pre-painted neck?

I havent decided on woods or pickup brands, this is just a preliminary sketch. Well at least im confident I love the look of it!

Forgive my ingorance, but what is TOM?

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Tune-o-matic, a type of bridge. Most (if not all) Gibsons have them.

My newly built guitar is done, and Because I thought Mahogany would be too heavy, I got Obeche, and it's too light... because there's only 1 pickup in the guitar, and a light HT bridge.

So . ' . (therefore) I have a neck heavy guitar.

Does anyone have any recommendations to fix this?  Weights?  routing in the back and putting in weights? haha, mercury injection?

thanks.

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One technique I've heard is to tape a 9-volt (or 2 or 3) to the strap at the bridge-side strap pin...

They're a pretty universal item, but you can't go wrong with Carvin: http://www.carvin.com/products/single.php?...ber=AB1&CID=ACS