Reaper

Wow... am I the only one who's not having a problem?

ah, cool. I like the design on that thing.

ok, yeah, I'm probably going to go with springs though, to save myself the trouble. It's my first project, and I really don't want to start fooling with the routing, screw something up, and shoot myself in the foot. Thanks, though!

StewMac carries them and ships to the UK (about $10 USD + shipping). I haven't found any others.

I've got a couple hamsters running in a cage under the desk...

no, seriously, cable here.

so, in other words, just route them shallow enough that you can just screw 'em to the bottom of the cavity?

Okay, I've heard the arguments tone-wise for each (which basically boil down to: it really doesn't matter), so cosmetically speaking, which would look best on a natural mahogany guitar with gold hardware. The pickups are zebra and reverse zebra, and the rings would be black. I have a set, but the router template is set up for direct-mount (it would require extra cutting to fit rings in). Would it be worth the extra pain in the butt of cutting out a bit more wood to fit the rings in there? Or should I just direct mount them...

they suck live anymore.they do this crappy thing they call the "metallimedley" where they only play bits and pieces of all their old stuff back to back.just when you start to enjoy one song...ooops!here's another one.

The Kill-Ride Medley?

Sounds a lot like Dream Theater's "Instrumedley" from the 6DOIT tour... John goes right up to the solo in Erotomania... and shifts. Argghhhh!

EMS freesurfer. Works like a charm, and it's free.

I just got a solid piece of mahogany at a local lumber shop for a little north of $40.

If that doesn't work, warmoth has body blanks that run for $50-$65.

The tube amp parts won't be too hard to get it you purchase a kit (and most manufacturers don't bother with solidstate... I really don't know why. Most people go for tube anyway).

This Class A amp kit may be of some interest to you. It's a tube amp, but it looks pretty simple and at $50, pretty darn cheap too. http://www.stf-electronics.com/Page0015.Html

try here: http://www.amptone.com/#kookflwa

They're really into the small one-watt amps.

Tony Levin

Personally, I'd take that blue Modern in half a heartbeat...

yep, I know that. Thanks a lot!

no.measure from the nut to the point on the bridge where the string hits the saddle.if i could draw a picture i would but i don't have that capability.maybe alex would draw something?he's the picture wizard.but you want to be sure you know what you are doingbefore you place it.

That's right at the front of the saddle, right (away from that vertical piece)? (note: I was originally confused about the orientation of the bridge, which is why I mentioned it. After seeing pictures of the installed bridge the vertical piece goes toward the back...)

Anyway, the saddles are adjustable for intonation, so.... where should they be when I set the bridge? As far forward as possible? Dead in the middle?

Thank you for your fast response and for your input. So as I do this, I should measure from the nut to... the back of that vertical piece?

Okay, I posted this on Jemsite, but with little success, and it was recommended that I try here, so here goes:

How would you go about setting up a bridge? I've got a Carvin 22-fret neck (this), and I'm going to be going with either a flat-mount bridge, or a stopbar/tune-o-matic.

My questions are:

-How would you measure the distance so that the bridge is placed properly?

-What would you measure from (and to on the bridge)?

-How would you make sure it's properly aligned?

Also I'm looking at two different bridges here, both from Carvin. One is flat mount string-through-body (found here), and the other is a tune-o-matic/stopbar (found here and here). Which would you recommend and why? Is one easier to install than the other?

Is there anything else I need to know about any of this stuff?

This is all for my summer project axe...

Thanks in advance for any help.

edit: fixed links, and BTW, this is a 25.5" scale neck.