MidnightLamp

The last reply has got it down perfect in my opinion. A spokeshave can be one of the most useful things ever, but much like a plane, it has to be well calibrated, you have to use it properly, and it has to be nice and sharp. It's not essential to guitar building, as there are ways to do all of it's task with other tools, but if you can learn to wield it well, it'll be damn useful.

Try getting a junk one from your local good wood store (not the large chains but the smaller stores. Sharpen it up, and practice with it.

Peace.

I know it's an odd answer (and not one of the choices...), but did you consider an oil finish on this? I think it would look nice.

Peace

I don't see why not? If you're building a custom body you can do anything! Has it been done before, probably:

Alexi Laiho Signature

That's not a king V, but you get the idea...either way, the technique invloves using a Chamfer bit:

Chamfer Bit

Alternatively, you can just do it by hand with a rasp, sandpaper, and a lot of patience.

Cheers,

Nish

Edit:

Here we go!

http://www.jacksonguitars.com/products/sea...rtno=2803040803

This is my story:

I decide that cordless drills are useful, so abandon my portercable drill of 30 years service, and get:

-one 14.4V craftsman that I started with...battery died....two years old, so NO REPLACEMENT EXISTED...$100

So...I decided that these drills seem a bit cheap quality, so I'll just buy a cheap one.

-one 14.4V powerfist that has a shattered plastic gearbox...$30

Build part of a shed and it breaks....so off we go to get

-one 15.6V B&D firestorm, used, $30

Go through one years work and the batteries are almost failing (mind you I take good care of the batteries...but when boring through wood with spade bits or drilling metal...they die...very quick), so I'm thinking I need something with more power and I can't find any replacement batteries, so I go and get a new craftsman drill

-one 15.6V craftsman drill that has a much higher torque rating...$70

lasts a long time, but the batteries die, craftsman doesn't stock the replacements (1.5 years), so I get a:

-15.6V Dewalt Drill - $220

Thinking that the dewalt was going to be higher quality, I got this. Turns out that this one had a faulty gearbox, so took it back to the store for a full refund and bought this:

-18V Mastercraft drill, most powerful of the bunch bout $100

Batteries are on the verge of dying..but still isn't dead, no replacements available

Now since this can't handle harder jobs (like drilling two bigger wholes in a sheet of metal), I got the first ever 24V drill I saw...some

-Power XT 24V for $50...still working...but cheap piece of crap...chuck can't hold small bits...at all.

All in all, that's about $380 spent on cordless drills...ALL JUNK. Most of this was bought on my work grant as it is to be spent on tools, and my tech really likes these drills...but trust me they're a waste of time. I can't speak for the good quality dewalt drills, but for all they others, either they were crap, or the batteries didn't last long at all. I only paid $150 for the portercable drill, and it's lasted 30 years of hard work and runs like a dream...full metal (not a piece of plastic in sight), and fully bolted, so you can take it apart and clean/maintain. Buy a corded drill...

Peace

Here's an idea for quality finishes...keep well under that so people don't ask why you can't finish that good (I'm speaking for myself there, but you get the idea...if you can do better...higher...)

http://www.roxyguitarfinish.com/pricing.html

http://www.warmoth.com/paint/paint.cfm

Cheapest one you'll find:

http://cgi.ebay.ca/New-Double-Kick-Bass-Dr...1QQcmdZViewItem

Take a look at this:

http://i8.tinypic.com/25gcr2t.jpg

I know the hole's not all that much like what you want, but it's just an idea to think of?

Peace

you end up being really hit or miss when you look at some of the cheaper lines; I have a few jobmate items...one quarter sheet sander, etc... and they're all fine, but the two angle grinders I got (one bought, one from the return) did not work, so I just ended up going with a quality one....(dewalt in that case....my wallet cried for days).

Have you got a princess auto near you?

http://www.princessauto.com/PAcountry.cfm?...F=loc&SPC=1

Peace

Hey Matt,

My drill press was stolen, so that's outa the question now. Try something like this?

http://cgi.ebay.ca/5-SPEED-MINI-DRILL-PRES...1QQcmdZViewItem

It'll probably be about $70 or so dollars with some decent shipping, and dirt cheap if you go ground (weeks of waiting) or freight. I think that's about as cheap as you can get considering that even if you buy a used one, you're still gonna pay more for the shipping than the press itself.

If you have a Sears nearby, try this for the step up:

http://www.sears.ca/gp/product/B000FJG9FG/...nodeid=16364751

It's still rather cheap?

Peace

What?!? He sells the templates seperately too? If he mentioned that somewhere on the site, he could've gotten at least 10 more sales from me alone!

Thankfully I moved onto engineering and will never have to work with that material again.

What sort of engineering never uses titanium or inconel?

Electrical

Look at the stickies in this forum.

http://www.floydrose.com/7string.html

They make them...where to get them, or who would even think of stocking them is another thing.

not particularly what you asked...but take a look at the HZ series pickups. Although the tone is still (very arguably, in my opinion) somewhat mediocre, but a lot better than the selects. I have used both before, and I highly prefer the HZ series.

****....you better rent a semi and haul all of that over to your place...I HATE YOU!!!! I can barely get good deals on broken stuff on ebay!!!

I know you've already probably looked these over, but why not contact someone like LGM, who we all know does damn good work? Also, what about places like Roxy finish etc...

Just spoutin' the obvious, Peace.

I'd say both..

stupid answer, yes, but all the same.

A multi F/X unit is great if you're just starting out to be an F/X experimenting guitarist (not skill wise...but pedal board size), because buying single pedals to just get a whole wide range of sounds is not worth it in the slightest. If you're a performing musician, they're great, as you can get a bunch of sounds outa one box, and it's not like you have 20 pedals to take care of and check for plugs (each needs to be plugged in, have an input and an ouput on them, and all the knobs need to be set (let's say three on average)....that's about 6 things per pedal...and with ten pedals, that's 60 things per show). A multi F/X unit is also great if you want really versatile effects. Why get a one trick pony dist. pedal when you've got ten in one box?

Now on the other hand, pedals are great if you want the right tone at the right place. If you want to have the tone of one particular old pedal, there's usually gonna be no way to get it on a multiF/X unit unless the unit has a model of that pedal. A good example is phases or flanges. I hate the tone of every phaser/flanger in every multiF/X unit i've ever played through...there's just always something I want to adjust on them, but just isn't right. With pedals you can radically shape your sound with just a few turns of a knob. Most multi F/X units don't have the kind of ease of use to change specific parameters on the fly, or even while performing..it's just not in their call of duty. The other problem with multi F/X units is that you get what you pay for. On many effects, cheap ones can be had that sound great (if you know where to look), so with a multi F/X unit, it's a big one time investment for you, whereas a pedal collection can be built up.

Now that you've heard both sides, I personally use a few choice pedals alongside a multi F/X pedal (a pod XT) and that keeps me happy. The pod gives me the versatility, and the few pedals I chose give me the tones that the pod lacks.

Peace.

damn! Thanks chris, that's a really neat idea! I've been wasting my money on the reinforced cut off wheels (For grinding) and never even thought of getting good quality ones likes these.

Peave.

Try Sheet Metal Shears (tin snips)....think scissors...on crack!

Example:

http://www.thepartsbin.com/cartools/hand_t...ips-1309-d.html

I wouldn't even look at routing metal, as that just reeks of "bad idea" to me.

Other than that, there's always the jewellers saw method above, and dremel (if you like to pay money for a LOT of cut off disks.)

Peace.

that's just corny!!! The ones I want are the kerry king/jeff hanneman ones that are full size, but made of cheap crap (or just unloaded). A couple of those....and a real one...and an amp.....and a good guitar....and some talent.....and I'd be ready to shred

yup...I actually would love to get a few of those for my room!

I actually think it's kinda dumb when it comes to some bands. When I went to see Thyne Eyes Bleed, and Mastadon (both of which were on the unholy alliance tour with slayer), they both had a few full stacks in the background, but it's a total waste of money compared to using that to buy gear...but since all the other bands had them..they had to get em to?

About the double sided thing though...I dont' think that'll work as it'll leave an exit wound (from the other side where you drill in). For the jewellers thing, I think it's called a wire-cutting EDM machine. I have access to one at our university mech. engineering lab (CNC), but looking from a size perspective, I think it'd be way too much money if he did that kinda work on his first bass also.

Cheers,

Nish

and let's hope that about....zero...of them were actually what she was plugged into!

Sorry...couldn't resist

Dummy cabs/turned off.

Slayer uses about 25 cabs per side (full marshall 4x12's) arranged in inverted crosses on stage for their new tour. Only two cabs per cross are loaded, as you can't have more and keep balance.

Most bands just have a wall for the sake of putting on a show.