bugman96

Thanks Rick!

Well I learned my lesson. I drilled screw holes for the neck after routing the pocket out and didn't clamp any wood in the pocket to minimize tear out. Bottom line is I got some tear out while drilling one the holes.

What's the best way to fix this, as I know a level surface is crucial here. Epoxy, wood putty, wood filler? Or don't worry about it? Thanks in advance.

Here's a pic:

Thanks again guys. I have to post pictures of it when it's finished, now

. If your neck is aligned with the body now, then you have some issues...

Nah, I purposely put it out of alignment so that gap would show. When it's aligned everything is pretty flush, just loose.

You guys helped enormously. Thanks!

Was working on making a telecaster body and may have messed up the neck pocket. I posted this on a telecaster forum and got some mixed feedback, so I thought I'd ask you guys.

Here goes:

I am (or was) making a tele body and have a USA custom guitar t-style neck. I made a working template from a master copy and did test route on scrap to make sure the neck fit the pocket -- it did...nice and tight. So, thinking the template was good, I went ahead and routed the pocket out on the body. When I tested the route w/ the neck it seemed way too loose for comfort (I'm under the impression that the fit should good enough so that you can pick up the guitar by the neck without it being screwed in). Seems pretty likely that I messed up somewhere pretty bad, no?

But anyway, here are some things that went through my head, and I'm hoping the builders here could chime in...

1) my test route doesn't have a cutaway like a tele, so there's extra support on the bottom of the neck, explaining the difference in fit between the test route and the real route. Are factory tele necks a little wobbly when you unbolt them?

2) I may have done the 2 routes w/ different router bits (porter cable vs. freud).

3) A Fender tele pickguard fits both routes perfectly, making me think back to item #1.

4) I'm over-analyzing this too much.

Here is a picture with the neck angled toward the lower bout:

Some replies on the other forum said building up the lacquer finish would take care of this problem, but since the neck is already finished and I'm planning on an oil finish for the body, I don't that'll work.

Thanks and feedback appreciated! Any places to get single piece mahogany blanks other than Gilmer wood?

Is this wiring schematic correct? I'm trying for 2 pickups, master tone and volume, with ability to split the humbucker. I'm specifically concerned about the capacitor and the jumper for creating the coil split.

sorry for the use of unconventional colors and clutter.

Thanks for any help you can offer.

Fender Broadcasters and the first Esquires were pine, so sure

following that model, Glendale Guitars sells pine tele bodies.

this might not give the shine you're looking for but it makes for a nice natural finish

http://home.insightbb.com/~jpaquay/oil_fin.txt

anyone?

Just wired up my guitar; 2 pickups: single coil and humbucker.

I have two issues. The first is the bridge ground which I know how to take care of. The second is that the electrical buzzing gets louder when I touch the humbucker's mounting ring and screws. Not sure why this is happening.

For what its worth I get good sound through an amp.

Thanks in advance for any advice you guys toss out here.

For my second build I'm planning a mahogany (body and neck) telecaster but I'm concerned about the mahogany making the sound too warm or muddy so I'm asking you guys what I can to help retain some twang.

The first thing I'm doing is to use an ebony fretboard.

Other things I've considered:

500K pots

higher output pickups

Which do you think is the best route?

Thanks for your time.

maybe I didn't see it, but do you have a way to access the truss rod?

Drak, is the rear neck heel route just to make it more comfortable for playing like a quasi-AANJ?

Looks nice!

I like the pearloid pickguard on that blue color.

Thanks. I can do the drill and dowel method, once I find some hardwood dowel. I was just checking because I already have some on hand, the tube says securely holds screws and nail....but I doubt that takes into consideration the tension from guitar strings

Thanks again!

Would a hardening wood filler like this (http://www.minwax.com/products/woodmaint/wood-filler.cfm) work?

I think what it is really missing is cracks. I do not know if you get get checking with acrylic, but nitro doesnt take that long to cure if its only a few top coats.

There's a company called Folk Art that makes acrylic paints and a crackle medium for acrylic paint (bottle says it's compatible with wood). I don't know if it'd work with a nitro clear coat over it, but it can take a waterbased varnish.

http://www.plaidonline.com/productDetail.asp?itemID=692

they also have this stuff

http://www.plaidonline.com/productDetail.asp?itemID=30064

on here. scroll down

http://www.edromanguitars.com/featured/weird.htm

That's gorgeous. I'd buy it if I had the skill or time to turn it into something

Its not oil residue left over from before. I told him to try the peroxide thing, then gave him some of my polish and cleaner to clean off some of the left over peroxide. The peroxide cleared off a little of it. And after about 1/2 an hour of him playing it this morning, then about 1 to 2 hours of me playing it today, the colour went back to the same light green tint it was before.

IMO, if it were mold the green color would not have come back after treatment with peroxide.

I might be interested in some for a body blank

If flatsawn is stronger in one thickness I cannot se how it would be weaker in another thickness.

I agree, but I threw it in because it's an alternative hypothesis you have to consider if you're going to do some experiments IMO. Back to the thread!

The test showed that the flatsawn piece (1/2”x1/2”x4.25”) flexed .052” under the load of eight pounds. The quartersawn piece flexed .05”. A difference of more than 10%. This makes me doubt the old “truth” that the neck should be made out of quartersawn wood.

The way you described it, that doesn't tell you anything-- you described one instance. Was the experiment repeated? Repetition and some statitiscal analysis would help to determine if that result occurred by chance or it is representative of quartersawn and flatsawn wood of the species he tested. It could be a fluke for all we know. It's also possible that flatsawn could be stronger than quartersawn at certain thicknesses.

And just in case you didn't know the air you breath everyday is only about 8% Oxygen, 70% nitrogen abd the rest on inert gases...

78% Nitrogen

21% oxygen

the rest is carbon dioxide, inert gases, and pollutants

Paint booth looks cool; can't really say more than that because I don't know much about the topic

Is that still the same black limba you had when I PMed you a week or so ago?

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/soundat11/de...dnm=c5c8re2.jpg

or is it stuff for necks?

??