bugman96

Saw an add for a 9" delta bandsaw...$75. Yes or no?

Set all the saddles on the bridge as far towards the fingerboard as

possible and then move the entire bridge back or forward until

the saddles are at the scale mark. Later, when you set the intonation,

all the saddles are set back a little to make the vibrating

length of the strings longer than the scale. This is necessary to

compensate for the increase in pitch caused by pressing down

the strings.

This is straight from Koch's book. The scale length is as close as the saddles will ever be, so the scale length will be adjusted longer to intonate. You can play it safe with 75% or if your confident in your ability to measure then do it like Koch suggested for optimal bridge placement, since you will never have a time when you need to adjust shorter than the scale length. On a TOM bridge you will need to angle the bass side like others have suggested.

←

That clears up my confusion

So then what if I'm going to use this bridge?

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bridges,_tailp...ail_Bridge.html

I didn't see it listed on the stewmac fret calculator...should I assume it's the same as the other non-trem strat bridges?

EDIT: a quick look at Wikipedia reveals that 'Wellingtonia Gigantea' is giant sequoia (incorrectly named; invalid nomenclature), so a redwood as far as I can tell, and probably illegal to log, so probably windfall.

←

Yup, Wellingtonia is the exact same thing as the giant redwood.

In this site:

http://www.bioimages.org.uk/HTML/T42285.HTM

Sequoiadendron giganteum - the latin name currently accepted by botanists

(Lindley) - author who first described it in scientific literature

Buchholz (Wellingtonia) - Bucholz probably described it around the same time as Lindley but under the genus Wellingtonia...

I knew college would pay off someday...

and relish the thought of sorting through large piles of wood next time you go down to the local lumber yard, in search of that one perfect chunk of mahogany/maple/insert wood species here?

←

I'm new to the wood acquisition business, but where do you guys live where your lumber yards have mahogany and other nice stuff. The ones near me only seem to only have construction grade cedar and pine (home depots by me have maple and oak, but that's about it).

Dude these are the type of pieces you should hold on to for scrap wood to test finshes and things of that nature.

←

Yeah, probably not a bad idea. But I've never built a guitar (currently planning) and thought it'd be better take it out of the kindling barrel and give it a good home.

For anyone else interested, the wood's taken.

I have a small piece of maple from Home Depot that I don't need.

Dimensions:

15 1/8" long

1.5" wide

~.75" thick

has a cut (2 5/16") long from a table saw.

It has some figure, but not the greatest.

I think someone could turn it into a fingerboard for a mandolin.

Pictures are here

So you could see what it looks like, I included pics of the finished piece I used (Minwax Special Walnut stain and Deft spray can lacquer).

It's free, and I'll pay for shipping; I'll only ship within the US though.

Send me a PM if you're interested.

I've looked around at a bunch of the major online retailers but have never seen a tele humbucker bridge with the 3 barrel saddles. I've seen people ask on other guitar forums about them. Do they exist? If so, where can I buy one?

Thanks for the sample. They sound nice. Now I have to go to the Seymour Duncan site and listen to their tele rhythm pickup samples

Doesnt it depend what lace sensor you're considering since theres a bunch of different colours.

I think you can host it on www.yousendit.com or something with a similar web url.

←

Good point. The ones I think I'm most interested in based on the description from the Lace website are Blue, Lt Blue, and BUrgundy.

I'm debating whether or not to use a lace sensor or tele-style pickup in the neck position and before I decided I want to hear lace sensors but haven't been able to find any sound clips. ANyone know where I can find some?

Buy a nut that is the radius that your fretboard is at the first fret.

←

From where though? None of the pre-cut stewmac nuts I've seen have advertised the radius.

Here's a rough sketch of the guitar I'm going to build (my first):

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/bugman_96/de...9&.dnm=50bc.jpg

I'm going to redraw it tomorrow making sure everything is squared and the lines are straight, etc...but you get the idea. Horizontal red line is where the saddles will be.

and are my questions:

Will I run into trouble using a compound radius neck ( 7-1/4" to 9-1/2", from USACG) and a telecaster bridge?

I don't want a pickguard so I'm going to route a control cavity in the back. It's not going to have a top glued on so I'm wondering about how to go about routing/drilling so the pickups' wires can hookup with the control cavity.

I've read that the nut should be radiused to match the radius of the fingerboard at the nut. Since I don't have the right tools, I'm thinking about getting a pre-cut curved bottom nut from Stewmac. Will this work with the 7 1/4" radius?

Many thanks in advance.

(I have some scrap cedar I'm going to practice building it with too).

What bridge do you use? If you use a floyd, it shouldn't.

←

I plan on using a non-trem bridge like for a strat or tele.

I'll post in here rather than in a new thread because this is already kind of dealing with my question.

I'm going to be building my first guitar (hopefully within the next year) and will be using a Warmoth neck. I don't plan on using a pickguard so could I route the neck pocket deeper to get rid of the overhang gap? Or would that cause problems with action and bridge height?

it's very critical.  it effects your scale length which effects the intonation of the guitar.  but the real measurement is from the nut to the saddles on the bridge.  measure acurately from the breakpoint of the nut to the fourteenth fret.  twice that distance is where your saddles should be.

what kind of bridge are you using and while i'm thinking about it what made you ask the question in the first place?

←

I asked because I didn't know and I'm currently absorbing info on how to build a guitar so that I can hopefully make one in the near future. Not sure what kind of bridge I'm going to use yet though I'm leaning toward something like a tele bridge.

I'll ask this here too so I don't clog up space with another stupid post: I know I can get wood for a solid from an online retailer but where can I go in the real world without placing a special order? I've been checking out local places and no one has anything usable. <-----never mind...I just found out exoticwoods.com is 15-20 minute drive away.

Another newbie question: how critical is the distance from the end of the fretboard/neck pocket to the bridge?

Thanks.

Most 3x3's don't have graduated post heights, however, you'll be turning the knob backwards(on one side) to tune it if you use inline 6's on a 3 per side headstock. Also, the gears on the backside of the headstock will go up on oneside and down on the other. I would not suggest it, but it's your guitar.

←

Thanks, man. I was looking the guitars in my house and kinda figured that out but thanks again!

I have some Sperzel in-line tuners and want to know if they have to be used in-line or can I do 3-per side (in other words: does a 3 per side layout have to have machine heads with graduated post heights?