araz

Hi guys, I made a video of how I made a guitar neck rest. If you like it, please consider signing up to my new Youtube channel. Thanks, Araz

Started this project in late 2006 and have been working on it on/off since then. I now have some time on my hands to finally finish this guitar.

Although I'm happy with the progress so far... I need to fix a problem before moving on. As you can see in the image of the back side, while carving a curve, I went a little too deep and came face-to-face with a cavity! It's not very big but the area is very weak and needs to be filled...

You can see the other photos here: http://projectelectr...rogress-status/ There's also a close-up of the problem hole.

Araz, that one made me laugh. I'm not sure why it's so funny, but it is. I'm sure you were able to fix it though.

I laughed out loud at that because I've almost done that same thing many times. Working with three dimensional objects can trick your brain sometimes.

Well! I'm glad I'm providing some entertainment for everyone.

It is pretty funny though. Just so stupid of me

Araz, that one made me laugh. I'm not sure why it's so funny, but it is. I'm sure you were able to fix it though.

Yeah, it's pretty funny... Cause it's such a stupid mistake. Thing is, I only realized my mistake AFTER I put the neck in the body pocket and I was like "what the hell?!?"

You're right it was easy to fix.

Don't feel too bad... Here's one from me... Can you see the mistake?

I was flipping through my November Guitar World magazine and came across a Yamaha advertizment for the RGX A2 (page 35) and something called the A.I.R. body (alternative internal resonance). It's described in the magazine as "AIR body construction is a new technique utilizing a lightweight resonant wood core tightly enclosed between two harder tone-woods."

Does anyone know what this consructon technique is all about, which resonant and tone-woods are used?

Araz

To test the clear coat idea, I sanded a scrap peice to 220 grit and applied, so far, three coats of clear (polyurethane) and it is looking very nice.

So, clear coat it is!!

Thank you everyone,

Araz

My personal preference, based on recent experimentation with active EMGs, is 81 at bridge and 85 at neck. I find the 85 at the neck gives rich clean tones while the 81 at the bridge give well-defined distortion.

Actually, what do people think about the 60? Do you like it? Neck or bridge?

Take care,

Araz

I found this really nice piece of cherry wood for about $15cnd while I was browsing at my local wood store. I already jointed it and planed it smooth. I traced the body contour, hard to see though... I used mineral spirit to show the patterns.

I'm new to cherry wood and don't really know how to properly finish it. Can it be stained with coloured dyes or simply clear coat it? I want to emphasize the beautiful figures in the wood...

Yes, I will test on scrap pieces before doing anything but I want to know if there's a standard finish for such a figured cherry wood.

Any ideas? Examples are welcome.

Araz

Actually, my local Rona store (similar to Home Depot) up here in Canada does carry maple and I recently saw a beautiful flamed maple about 1"x4"x8', if I remember correctly. I was pleasantly surprized to see that I will be able to buy flamed maple from Rona, albeit the flamed variety was probably 1 in 1000...

Araz

Thanks guys. These look good.

Araz

Hi group,

I'm thinking of finishing my next project with only clear coats on mahogany, ie no staining. The guitar, already in progress, will have front and back african mahogany and will be grain filled (and maybe sanding sealer) The neck is also mahogany because I want to have a consistent look from the back. The fingerboard is rosewood.

I already tested the clear coats of polyurethane on a scrap piece of mahogany and it looks very good... but I'm worried that a whole guitar done this way may look too "woodsy".

Can anyone show me an example of all mahogany clear coated guitar?

Araz

The guitar building application is really for 1/4" fretboards, thicknessing 1.25" to 1.75" wood prior to glue up, thicknessing 1/2" tops of probably figured woods (very rarely), cleaning up resawed wood.

I do all of the above with excellent results using this.

The only thing is, you have to first build it but it's really simple... and doesn't cost very much in MDF...

Take care,

Araz

Can you help me out please. I'm not good enough on Photoshop yet.

http://img477.imageshack.us/img477/8966/p35212h0vm.jpg

Heres the picture of the Jackson USA KV2

OK. I did it but my web hosting service is shrinking the file so I can't post it in the correct size. If you send me your email address, by PM, I can email the file to you.

Then you just need to print it full size (on multiple pages)...

Araz

EDIT: As I try to work in Photoshop. I cant seem to get the size. from the bridge to the nut ???? Its not supposed to be from the head to the bridge ??? The guitar is a 25.5"

The scale length is the distance between the two points on which the string vibrates so it's measured between the bridge and the front of the nut (the front of the nut is the one facing the bridge).

Hope this helps, salut.

Araz

Oh well... I hope to find somewhere the dimensions of the V's, so I could get myself to work... I dont have any

The photo of the Jackson Y2KV Dave Mustaine Signature is photographed straight-on which means that if you know the scale length of that guitar, you can enlarge the picture in photoshop until you match the scale length (measure from the nut to the bridge) and voila, you have all the dimensions you need for the rest of the body.

Btw, where are you located in Quebec? I'm in Laval.

Araz

Just set it so that the high e saddle is set at your scale length when adjusted fully forward and then slide the bass post about 1/8" from there.

This is how I do it. It gives me 2 degree angle.

Araz

... I don't care for the results of my jigsaw for sawing bodies (waaaay too much sanding).

Have you thought about using a router with a flush trim bit with the bearing riding on the template? This makes a much nicer countour and is much less stressful than following a pencil line with a jigsaw. If I remember correctly, GuitarFrenzy used this technic in his guitar building tutorial.

Let me know if you don't know what I'm talking about and I'll find it for you.

Araz

I recently finished my first guitar, you can see it here guitar and my amp is a Marshall G215RCD (will open a pdf) . Now I want to play with guitar tones and record on a PC.

I have been reading and reading about tone/amp modeling, ins/outs, recording via USB, software, etc. I feel I’m going around in circles. Can someone help me out?

These are the things I want to do:

Create and fine tune guitar tones (amp modeling included)

Use these tones live (i.e. plug into an amp, just in my house; without needing a PC)

Record these tones as tracks on a PC

Add mutiple tracks (guitars, bass, drum, etc) to make a song

So what hardware and software do I need to do all of the above?

So far, I’v researched Line 6 products like the POD XT that will enable tone creation and can plug directly into an amp but can’t figure out if it includes the software for recording and track editing. Then there’s TonePort that can also create tones and record but I think I can’t play live.

Any ideas?

Araz

That is really nice !! I also like the natural binding.

How many coats of blue did you put on or did you use some black first and then sanded back?

Btw, where does everyone get such nice quilted maple tops?

Araz

Cool.  I had to ask because with the missing fret I thought it was even shorter than 24.75 in.  I thought it might be 22.5 in. like the Daisy Rock guitars.  The next question would have been why.  Short scale has been on my mind lately and maybe that's why I noticed.  My wife and I had a baby girl 4 weeks ago and of course I've been thinking about building her a guitar!    Thanks for the info and nice job again.

Best Regards,

Mike.

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Congratulations on the new arrival

I've also though about building a small guitar, I have two daughters aged 4 and 6 and they are showing some interest in my new guitar... well they just like to strum the strings with their hands. Anyways, maybe one day I'll build one for them and I'll make sure to post it here.

Araz

Beautiful, truly beautiful!

I really like colortone on the entire guitar. Nice round shape and everything. I woudn't mid having that in my collection. 

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Thanks Jens.

Very nice! I like it. Great first project. Two questions for ya. What is the scale-length of the neck and why only 20 frets? Also, is the nut overhanging the sides of the neck or is that an illusion? Again, I like it and good job.

Best Regards,

Mike

Thanks Mike,

The sale length is 24"3/4

I was wondering if anyone was going to notice the nut and number of frets. Yes, the nut is currently overhanging, it needs to be trimmed. The guitar should have 22 frets but I ran out of fretwire and only had enough for 20. One fret marker (dot) is also missing, I also ran out of those (you can see the hole just below the 20th fret). I doesn't make sens to order just those from stewmac so I'm going to have to wait until my next order...

Araz

Wow, that looks really nice! The fretboard inlays look so big though, what size are they? Also the knob placement is a little wierd, any comments on that?

Awesome job man, congrats on it!

Chris

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Thanks Chris,

The inlays are 8mm (5/16"), they are the biggest dots that stewmac sells. I guess they are a bit big for the upper party of the fretboard (past 12th).

As for the knob placement, do you mean the switch? because the knobs are placed in a fairly standard way. I admit the switch is a bit far from the knobs but no biggy...

Btw, are you really an algee enthusiast?

Araz

Wow! That looks really great for a first axe! Does the neck go into the pickup cavity at all? Set or bolt on neck?

How do you like purpleheart for a fingerboard?

Curtis

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Thanks Curtis,

Yes, the neck goes about 3/4 into the neck pickup cavity. It's a set neck.

The purpleheart is ok but I wont use it again... just because the colour purple does not match very well with many colours (for the body). Rosewood or ebony is more neutral and goes better with most colour finishes.

I should say that this is my third attempt at a body and second attempt at the neck...but the first guitar I finish.

Araz

Finally completed enough of this guitar that I can actually play it. During the building process I was aiming to build a guitar that looked nice but I wasn't expecting it to play very well because I kept telling myself that so many details have to be right for the guitar to play properly.

Well, honestly, the playability is outstanding, it exceeded my expectations. The action is low, no buzzing, feels great on the fingers

A bit about the guitar... The body is african mahogany and maple with a flamed maple veneer on top stained using aniline dyes. The neck is maple with a dual action truss rod. The fingerboard is purpleheart. The head stock has a Jatoba veneer. I have EMG 81 and 85 pickups (always wanted to try emg's), TOM bridge, standard three-way switch, 1 volume, 1 tone, bone nut, etc.

The body was coated with about 8-10 coats of polyurethane then polished with a finishing paste. I wanted a high-gloss look but did not find the proper buffing stuff ... anyway, it's a matte look and it's OK for my 1st guitar. The neck was only tung-oiled (not my tounge ). After adjusting the intonation, it sounds amazing through a Marshall amp

There are only a few things to left to do to really finish the guitar: the electronic cavity cover in the back has to be made, the back of the neck has to be waxed, the pickup height has to be adjusted (having a bit trouble with that), screw in the pickup covers and then I'm really done!

I'm already thinking about the next project...

Araz