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GhesQi J

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Posts posted by GhesQi J

  1. hey joten i am curious.you say you stood on the laminated carbon fibre rods and it bent less than .5 mm.was that with your full weight?

    Full 70 kilograms!!

    Acoustic guitar project finished!!

    More info and pictures can be found on my website:

    http://www.ghesqij-guitarsite.tk/

    Direct link (scroll down)

    She plays better than ever before. She's not perfect, but she never was :D

    But she's more than I ever dreamed of. Let's not forget it's a cheapo guitar.

    I invested about 100 Euro to do all the mods (hardware included)

    Cheers,

    Joten

  2. At the start I was considering of installing a truss rod (hot rod), but I came to the conclusion that all rod's are too long to fit the (short) neck and I would encounter problems near the neck joint. (it's a very cheap and poorly constructed guitar, it's not even a dovetail neck joint).

    I also thought of the idea of making a single acting truss rod myself, just like I did for my seven string, but I dumped that idea because I don't want to invest too much time/work in the project.

    So I went with the carbon fibre rods.

    But instead of routing two narrow channels for the reinforcements, I laminated the reinforcements with a piece of hardwood (meranti). (I updated my website with additional pics)

    This results in a very stiff bar. I even stood on it and it bends less than 0,5 mm in the middle. (the bar is 300 mm long)

    I don't know the long term effect on the neck, but if it doesn't work out it's not that bad (remember it being a 13 dollar guitar) :D

    It's really odd that the guitar broke along the glued joints (fretboard and scarf joint). It's like the glue became brittle through the years. B)

    you can also clearly see that the glue wasn't spread out evenly.

    Thanks for the tip on the string angle over the saddle. I'll remind that.

    The color will be black matte. No rosette, inlay or anything, just plain black.

    Cheers,

    Joten

  3. Long time, no post.

    The last few months were somewhat hectic with not much guitarstuff on my mind, but now I finished my studies and it's summer vacation!! So time for a new project :D

    Some time ago I had a little accident with my first acoustic (cheapo guitar really) and I'm planning to repair the damn thing.

    further info can be found on my website:

    http://www.ghesqij-guitarsite.tk/

    For a direct link go here

    Cheers,

    Joten

  4. It's better to use a piece of sandpaper wrapped around a (hard)wooden block with a nice flat surface.

    Preferably a long piece of wood (straight!)

    Like Brian said: the soft sponge will conform to any shape so levelling would be impossible.

    I also suggest you use that technique in any sanding scenario. If you want to level a wooden surface with dings and pits in it (say an abused guitar body :D never use a soft sponge! you will make the pits even bigger!

    soft sanding blocks are ideal to roughen or soften an already flat surface.

  5. sandingblock01.jpg

    I also made my fretboard sanding block myself (430 mm radius). I used a block of (hard) wood and a beltsander to achieve the radius. Very time-consuming, but simple and effective.

    The radius of 430 mm was drawn in AutoCAD and (partially) printed scale 1:1. Then I glued the piece of paper on the block, and belt-sanded to the printed hairline.

    The idea with the router would also work very well.

    Cheers,

    Joten

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