Bytrix

I think that's fairly normal for the warlock, when I bought one for my brother the first thing I noticed was the massive neck angle and the height of the bridge was like 3/4". Guess that's how BC Rich do them but I'm guessing they don't on the platinum models.

I've been considering sanding down the back of the neck joint on my brother's though to give it less of an angle and hence lower the bridge and pickups. I just don't think it looks right set so high.

Damn just what I want.. but I'm in the UK

Try turning down your volume a bit

Is this on a guitar you made, or not? You could have your wiring messed up, perhaps not enough shielding, or not grounded? I don't think pedals and signal processors are gonna help, better to fix the problem at the source.

You don't need to look inside the pickup. Coil splitting is pretty easy to do with Humbuckers that allow it.

http://www.stewmac.com/wiring101/index.hzml

When it asks for number of frets it just uses that to give you the values for how many frets you entered. Doesn't make a difference to the position of the frets or anything. Your scale length is what's important.

Is this a neck that's already assembled and fretted? If so :

If you are measuring the scale length, try along the G string from the nut to the dead center of the 12th fret (I think.. as those measurements are used for cutting the grooves for each fret). Double that and you have the scale length, enter it into the calculator, and the position for your bridge should be displayed.

If not, just decide what scale length you want first, enter it into the calculator and it will give you the bridge position.

I never really figured out why the scale was wrong on those, like what's the point in using a design tool like CAD if you're not doing it the proper size.

Same method applies as above though, measure the length from the bridge (the actual point where the string touches the metal) and the edge of the nut.

If that's 471.5" :

25.5 / 471.5 * 100 = 5.40827147;

So scale the drawing by 5.408% and it should be to scale.

Then scale it up off the drawing, using the fretboard as a reference. DRAW A PLAN.

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That's what I've been doing, seeing as you know how to use photoshop, use the ruler tool to measure directly from the bridge to the edge of the nut. Take that distance (better if using inches as scale unit in photoshop), then you just want to scale it :

scalelength / measurement * 100

is the amount you want to scale by. Then just use the pen tool or line tool to draw out the shape over the top of it. That's what I did with this one :

1 | 2 | 4 | 9

I was wanting to get an Edge Pro but I can't seem to find those unless you buy a guitar with them on either Anyone know if you can buy them individually ?

Nice inlay, Helloween influence there?

Well ofcourse it's not easy. I like a bit of a challenge, plus I don't own a neckthrough (or a set neck) guitar yet, so want to build one. The only woodwork skills I have are what I got at school, but it's not like there's nowhere to learn about it all

I will be posting pics here, aswell as keeping a full build progress on my own site. Moving house is coming first, then when I've got the space I can get the tools I need and start building. I don't know for sure yet as to what wood I want to use, I'm waiting for Melvyn's book to arrive so I can have a good read through that before I really plan too much into it.

My aim is to build guitars that rival or better the ones I already have, then sell my 'old' ones, and just use the ones I made (which includes an acoustic and a classical guitar, which I have absolutely no idea how to make). But that's looking at years from now anyway.

Well it's going to be a neckthrough so the cutouts shouldn't really make it any weaker I don't think. Plus I probably won't use the 23/24 frets much anyway, I just wanna make something cool for my first project Depending how this turns out.. I might try an alpine white les paul 'style' for my second.

Well I think I've decided on the final body/scale/headstock now. Someone suggested it might look better if the paintjob covered the pickups too, so when it comes to painting I will probably try that, if I don't like it, I may then get the chrome covers :

I can't wait to start this , just need to decide what bandsaw and router I'm gonna get

For the prices Wesley sells guitars for it makes you wonder how much they cost to make. My wood alone for my first project is gonna cost me about as much as some of their guitars get sold for.

What model is that Trend router you have ? I've been looking around at which router to get but I really have no idea what's suitable, everyone talks about HP rating but over here in the UK all the sites selling them list Watts/RPM, and I have no idea how that translates into HP.

Thanks, and I couldn't do a search as I didn't even know what they were called

Damn that looks awesome. A beast is on my list of 'must make one of these'

I've seen those EMGs before, but they're pretty expensive compared to the Duncans and Dimarzios (or the normal black EMGs). I was wondering if it mattered if the covers had holes or not too.

Anyone know where the heck you would get the little metal caps you'd put in your body for the string-throughs ? eg :

When I get home I'm gonna be having another go at the headstock design and getting all the frets drawn into the neck (this one is completely to scale now), then see what it looks like with black hardware, silver, and with the painted covers.

Thanks for the ideas

I was thinking of doing that, but then I'd have this chrome bridge that wouldn't fit in.

I may just use a black bridge/pickups/machineheads/knobs.

As for the chrome covers with holes luthiersupplies has them on the catalog (hb covers with 6 or 12 holes).

I'm not completely set on what pickups I want in my first project, either a pair of DiMarzios or Duncans, but I was wondering if it's possible to put a humbucker sized metal cover over them, with chrome mounting rings.

I suppose I'd have to 'pot' them, but I'm not sure how the whole process of that is done yet, or if it's suitable for modern high-gain humbuckers.

Just for reference, here is the rough design I'm thinking of building, and I'd prefer to use all chrome hardware :

http://www.bytrix.net/external/rr7_l.jpg

My first guitar was an encore strat copy, it was cheap and came with a little 10w amp, but it introduced me to the world of guitar. It wasn't till I got my second guitar (a second hand '89 Charvel 375) that I realised just how much the encore sucked (even my 3rd guitar, a £180 Ibanex DTX120 Destroyer isn't as good as my Charvel).

I was looking at buying one of those wesley mockingbirds a while back but decided to just wait until I could get a BC Rich one.. or build one myself

I bought my brother a BC Rich Warlock for christmas, and was very happy with it (after hearing alot of bad things about BC rich). The stock pickups give one sound.. dirty and loud, but that's what my brother wants. I'll buy him some new pickups for it this christmas.

I found this :

The swamp ash body and special finish give the Voodoos a lighter feel. Swamp ash is 10 percent lighter than mahogany and more porous. The guitars are painted ebony and then rubbed with red filler; a satin lacquer coat completes the unique stained finish, showcasing the grain and allowing the wood to breathe.

ok, here's the body again with slightly larger cutouts on the sides, and a little bit more curvy (actually not far off the roswell curves, which wanted to try and stay away from), trying 24 frets, and the lower curve comes in closer giving access to the higher frets.

Think I'd rather use a tune-o-matic, as I have enough problems setting up my floyds on my other guitars, nevermind on a project, ; and I've marked on the 22nd and 24th fret positions :

Yeah I could probably do it

I'm messing with the idea of doing the headstock in the same kind of shape (like the roswell has the headstock the same as the body):

Curved Cutout + Headstock (Hi-Res)

Yeah I've heard good things about LuthierSupplies, but the prices on the site are from 2001, are they still current ?