BeAR

Once the inside cavity is cleaned up Ill glue a new top inside the routed rebate, then sand till he top is completely flush. I should be able to hide the edges with some careful Dremel work and some filling.

Im not sure whether to go with a similar soundhole to the Fender, or maybe an "F" hole like the thinline Tele's.

Ill make a bridge from Rosewood as per the original, and fit a split Piezo system to give me decent intonation. Preamp will be a 9volt system, which Ill design and build later. Ive got some schematics drawn up which Ill post when they are tested and working.

Ive been debating what to do next and Ive finally come up with an idea.

Fenders new Acoustasonic guitars look cool and sound amazing. I figure if a huge multi billion dollar company can build one, then so can I!!!!

Ill get the pics up soon.

I dont use Corel draw, but cant you just save the pic as a jpeg, open it into Corel and then save as a Corel file??????????

Hows that???????????????????

Post me a pic of the logo you want..............Ill do my best.

You mean the guitar template or the logo template?

Thats the same as the EB MM I made with the Floyd trem conversion.

I must say that they are unbelievable value for money and with the floyd in place its imposible to see the original fender style trem screw holes.

Basswood body with a photoflame top, frets seem to be quite well dressed for a guitar of that value and the neck plays really well.

I highly recomend them.

Hey Alex..........wanna fight!!!!!

Your right about the difference tho, my outline is a 2002 Tele Deluxe. Vintage size is slightly different as you can see.

Take your pick man, technically either one is correct Ive owned a re issue and a friend had a late model deluxe, they're like chalk and cheese, two very different necks.

Hows this??????????????????????

Check out a stop tail Peavey Wolfgang. They are recessed.

Sold!!!!

Shoot me an email when you get back to Melbourne and we can work out the details then. $15 should do if you want to pick them up.

With all the screws and nuts, all new.

Anyone inerested?

OMG!!! Are you in Melbourne too Matia????????

I thought I was the only one. Go figure hehe.

I live out Pakenham way, where are you?

I stand corrected, although you might want to explain that to my old Ibanez in the corner..............she's been painted that way and she looks and sound great.

Now I think about it, the base coat spent 2 weeks sitting in the corner of my friend oven at his Auto Paint Shop. They bake 3-4 cars every day. I guess thats why it worked for me. My acrylic would have been FULLY cured, but I get your point

Does it look like this?

DCord is exactly right.

Although any Fender is going to be worth more in the un-modified state. If its the original Floyd with fine tuners, Id be doing this..................tear down the guitar.

Sell the floyd and body seperately on Ebay. Put the funds towards a replacement body and trem. If your lucky you can get a different body in good condition that wont need painting, that alone will save you a small fortune. I know thats not in the tradition of this site, but the integrity of the Fender will still be there for future sale.

2 pac poly clear will adhere to automotive acrylic and look excelent, but automotive acrylic clear wont adhere very well to 2 pac poly.

Do your graphics in auto acrylic and then you can choose which clear coat you want to use later. For tyhe sake of a few dollars, Id recomend buying the auto acrylic for the colour coats. At a few dollars a can at least you know it wont react badly with the clear. Your wood paints may work but Id hate to put in all those hours doing a graphic only to find it frys up when the clear hits the surface. I wouldnt risk it to save a few dollars.

Honestly, the best option depends on your goals.

If you must do it ALL yourself, automotive pressure packs are a good option, just allow plenty of drying time and plenty of clear coats. The great thing about this method is that as long as you have enough clear on the body, any imperfections will rub out and polish upto a nice gloss finish.

The Best way I feel by far is to paint in Polyurithane 2 part paint. Its expensive to buy in bulk and you need special equiptment to spray it but the finish is TOUGH and you'll get a beautiful deep gloss. An option for this would be to prepare the body yourself, and take it to a Automotive refinisher. As long as the prep work is done and all they have to do is hang the body and spray it, it shouldnt be too expensive. You can pick any colour you like and they can mix it for you.

The other bonus with this is that you dont need to remove all the original Poly coating from your original guitar. Completely sanded with 800 grade wet/dry, the original coating makes for an excelent undercoat, and you dont have to worry about grain filler and such.

Thanks man, I feel the same way about your blue baby.

That kinda got me started on the whole re finishing thing.