JoeAArthur
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Posts posted by JoeAArthur
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Yep, if you can't play the music, blame it on a mechanical problem.
Edit: Ain't got a mechanical problem? Create one.
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Let me be the first to point out that you ain't paying attention. There is no need to change tunings with your guitar player. Say that second sentence out loud until it really sinks in, then to tell your guitar player to **** himself.
And "small hands"? Give me a break. That is the wimpiest excuse anyone could ever use. Look up Carol Kaye and learn that you don't have a problem.
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Another possible solution would be to try twisting the volume knob on your amp anti-clockwise if the output seems a little loud, and vice-versa if its too soft. Saves having to spend $300 on a pedal you don't really want. I understand this sort of output reguation is quite common in music amplifiers.
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Why do you need more than one bass? OK the guitar guys are futzing around with different tunings, that doesn't mean YOU have to. Just choose the instrument that covers the range of keys you're working in, and learn to use the whole fretboard.
It's a heckuva lot cheaper than buying a programmable compressor with separate presets for each bass (which is probably what you need otherwise).
+1.
I've never retuned from standard. You can screw up your neck, but not me.
If you need lower notes... well, that's why they make a 5 string.
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Never tried a dsonic...
but an X2N for a bridge pickup positively rocks!!
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Hey that would do it, switch down takes the easy route (bypass) instead of going thru C1.
middle pos'n routes thru c1 and up goes thru C2.
Perfect! Manya thanks for the input - thanks for bearing with me Joe!
Not a problem.
Personally though - I would have kept the single cap and used the switch for a choice of different parallel resistances (zero or bypass being one of those resistance). The cap, in conjunction with the volume control value, may determine the frequency of cut, but a parallel resistor would determine the depth of cut.
Just different strokes!!
Hope it works out!
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Hey this is kind of a dumb questing but I have this book "guitar Player Repair Guide" by Dan Erlewine and on page 234 it mentions 60/40 Resin Core Solder. Is this the same as Rosin Core solder, or is it a typo? Just wanted to ask because this book has never been wrong before and I've never heard the tern "Resin Core". The book says thats the best solder for guitar electronics.
Typo.
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OK thx, we have to back to the start then now you fully understand what it is I'm trying to achieve. Sorry I was not able to explain better at the beginning. Thank you for your boundless patience.
I want to try and achieve the vintage switch option using a 3-way toggle as a standard push-pull will not fit within the shallow body cavity that is a Ric bass.
And since I have a 3-way dpdt switch I want to see if it's possible to add a second cap option so the bass cut is not so severe. I need to retain the bypass so the full bass sound is still available and I'm not in the slightest bit bothered how you would prefer to call the bypass, series, parallel, in, out, whatever.
Just add another wire for the bypass to my previous diagram. One lead from the switch (lower right hand lug) and a lead from each cap twist together to form Con1.
This time, CAP2 should be smaller than CAP1 to give a Full/less/even less bass sound switching.
Con1 and Con2 replace the two leads for the single cap C3 in the Ric diagram - doesn't matter which is used for which.
+---CAP2--o o
| /
| /
Con1 ----+ o o---- Con2
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+---CAP1--o o
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+------------+
[/codebox]Does this make sense?
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Errrmm...yes. Have a look here - its the schematic for the ric4003 with push-pull vol pot to switch in a small cap in series between the vol and tone pots. (The 'vintage treble tone circuit').
http://www.joeysbassnotes.com/TipsPics/400...TC%20wiring.pdf
What I wanted to do was put in a 3-way toggle switch instead of the push-pull so I could then add a second different value cap which would then give me access to 3 tone ranges: no extra cpa, extra cap value 1 or oextra cap value 2. I think with the Myka diagram it should work fine.
Add to that... "Gretsch" is "Rickenbacker".
In the Ric diagram, C3 is wired as a bass cut and the push/pull shorts around it for a full bass sound out of the bridge pickup.
That is not the same thing as Myka's diagram which would provide different cap values for normal treble cut.
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I get it -
Bypass really means "not in addition to"...
Series really means parallel...
I think I'm straight now!!
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So I’d like to take my Danelectro distortion pedal and put it into my guitar. O I just wire the output of the guitar circuit into the input of the pedal and then wire the output of the pedal into the jack. Set up a stereo jack so the power is cut when unplugged and change the stomp switch to a toggle. Should work right? So why do I have the feeling it isn’t that Easy?
Don't know... sounds like you got it to me.
Maybe because finding space for the circuit board, any pedal controls, and the battery might not be easy?
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This would not work - from your diagram the middle position and the lower position would both route the signal thru cap1, there's no facility for bypassing both caps. This is a conventional 6-lug DPDT on/on/on switch we are talking about here. Con 1 has to find a route through to con2 without passing thru a cap. Go to the back of the class and read the question properly please.
This is how an on/on/on switch will switch:
Cap 2 selected
o o
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o o
o o
Cap 1 Selected
o o
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o o
|
o o
No cap selected position
o o
o o
| |
o o
[/codebox]Con 1 has to find a route through to con2 without passing thru a cap.Not sure what you are trying to say, but this is not true - a bypass of the tone control, the [i]no cap selected[/i] position is not a short circuit. A short circuit would turn the tone pot into a volume pot.
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I have a DPDT 6 pole on/on/on type switch - the sort I've used before for wiring series/parallel/coil tap options, but I want to use it for switching between bypass (no cap), cap1 (0.0022uF) and cap2 (0.0047uF) in series before the tone pot, to give a gretsch-style tone option (nice, muddy and muddier...)
Can I do it with this type of switch?
Yes.
how?
Like this - the circles represent the six lugs of your on/on/on switch.
+---CAP2--o o
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| /
Con1 ----+ o o---- Con2
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+---CAP1--o o
[/codebox]Con1 and Con2 (Con for connection ) should be wired into your circuit as if this whole thing was just a single cap.
The value of Cap1 should be the smaller than Cap2 for the switching you describe
Don't forget - that is a diagonal wire between the switch lugs.
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I have a DPDT 6 pole on/on/on type switch - the sort I've used before for wiring series/parallel/coil tap options, but I want to use it for switching between bypass (no cap), cap1 (0.0022uF) and cap2 (0.0047uF) in series before the tone pot, to give a gretsch-style tone option (nice, muddy and muddier...)
Can I do it with this type of switch?
Yes.
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I just noticed the tone pots in my LP copy started adding gain to my guitar's signal.
Narrowed it down to the guitar causing it. Also noticed a large presence peak in my tone.
I always have my volume and tone knobs on 10. I always had a nice open tone on both pickups.
Since this morning my bridge pickup has an enormous resonance (presence) peak.
Sounds similar to a "half cocked" wah or an oscillation.
Tones out of my rig are now very shrill during the initial attack and decay very rapidly
Never heard this before in the 10+ years I play this particular guitar.
Are the pots / caps dying on me? Or would a broken solder joint be more likely ?
Any advice? Thanks everyone.
The best advice is to get back on your meds.
If I could ever get tone pots in any guitar to start adding gain after 10+ years I would get a patent on it and make tons of money hand over fist.
Personally, You have probably changed something - like an amp, or a cable, or a new stompbox, or installed new pickups...
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So it's not necessarily a 0.022 mfd? I have a choice of .015 and .022 only. I guess once I swap out to vintage spec'd pickups I'll be ok. I'm just wondering if the .022 would make the guitar too bright?
Are vintage '57 Les Pauls bright anyway? I mean I notice a nice screaming lead tone when in the neck position. I saw a YouTube clip of Steve Lukather playing an old '58 Les Paul and eventhough he's got the neck postion on, the tone sounds more like MY Les Paul in the bridge position. My Goldtop's neck position is very dark, jazz like in tone.
Correct me if I'm wrong about my capacitor switch concern. .02 vs .022 seems like a big difference.
-Stew
Not a biggie, you will never hear a difference between .02 or .022 - besides, your caps probably have a plus-minus 20% tolerance anyway.
The .022 will give a "duller" tone than a .02 which will give a "duller" tone than a .015. But you are really trying to split the hair off a knat's rear end with the difference between .022 and .02.
Of course there are people that claim to hear the difference between manufacturers of capacitors of the same value - and that is just way too inside of being mystical for me.
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I'm thinking about swapping out my ceramic caps for Luxe bumble bee caps in effort to make a more accurate reproduction Les Paul. So I snapped this pic of the inside of my current cap (there are two but you probably already knew that). What value cap is this? All I want to do is try to get the same cap value but in a bumble bee version. I may even swap out my stock 500T/490R pickups for some Lollar Imperials. In case you're interested, my Les Paul Goldtop is a '96 Standard. No Historic or anything.
0.02 µF (microfarad)
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The new book of standard wiring is all pictures, not schematics. I love this book and they have several Tele set ups in it.
Also, just because it's a tele doesn't mean it has to have tele electronics.
Oh wow yeah man schematics are willie confusin.
Get a life.
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Hi all, ive got a WEM 4x12 Cab as can be seen in my advert here My Add
Its rated at 12'Ohms is there a way to lower it to run on a head rated at 4'Ohms? Thanks, just curious befor eit gets bought if it would of been possible.
If all speakers are 16 ohms, simply wire all of them in parallel for a 4 ohm total.
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Bump,
I really need 2 know if its good im prob gonna wire it today
I willie think if u willie wanna gut ini weal hep u need sum 2 what speek unglish ur aybe u prob figure it ut urself.
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From what I've read, the capacitor is very similar in its function to the couplings capacitors found in tube amps. In other words, they allow AC currents to pass but block DC currents.
I would suggest reading http://www.guitarnuts.com/technical/electr...afety/index.php also
I believe a capacitor's farads or microfarads determines its low-frequency cutoff. So (I think?) you could have a cap that will block DC as well as 60 hz AC but not higher AC frequencies. That's probably what the intention is with these things.
Where would the DC come from? And while you're busy 'splaining that one, move on to where would the 60Hz AC come from... And what higher AC frequencies would we be protecting ourself from? 120 hz? Even higher?
The use of a cap in grounding a guitar as explained on the guitarnuts site - is nothing more than a solution in search of a problem. Read the disclaimers carefully - and you're realize they claim nothing at all.
The cap idea is dangerous to your health because it leads you to believe you are doing something to protect yourself - when no protection AT ALL is provided.
Improper grounding won't give a dang if you ground your guitar through a cap or not - and come to think about it, proper grounding of AC equipment won't give a dang grounding your guitar though a cap either. In other words, grounding through a cap or not, you will still be just as dead if you don't pay attention to proper grounding.
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and always probe an amp with your right hand only and with the left hand by your side
i always put my left hand in my back pocket as a precaution.
even better.
Well, there are other pocket pool strategies.
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need info and help for wiring the switch.
Couldn't agree with you more.
Care to provide any more information?
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4.Both off with bypass
What does this mean?
Looking For Idea Here On Bass Rig Setup
in Electronics Chat
Posted
Wow (says the dumb checkout chick, "I say it louder"),
I jes think it is like so good how you can like express a totally ignorant thing aND everywon will think like it is just so cool cause you follow it with a ",,LOL,". I will just luv dat.
End I jes now how it es to only has those taxes to get things done. muny is all ways a factory - I lik that seying. mayb this yar cents the las 20 hasnot werked out fer ya de taxes will be butter.
Gud Luk!!