chunkielad

I think it's beautiful mate - really great job he's done there!

Say, does anybody have any thoughts about sealing the pinstripe on the pickguard? I tend to be heavy handed and I think I could ruin the paint in about 2 hours. I was thinking thinned down epoxy but don't really know.

Go to a local signmaker and ask thm for a piece of clear calandered vinyl - apply it to the scratch plate and trim the edges. Protected.

and in answer to ''my'' question.wich shouldnt have been rudely answered lol

http://www.misterart.com/store/view/001/gr...On-Metallic.htm

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Plasticote (or Plastikote) can't remember which but it's not amazing to look at!

Looking for decent mixer - 16 ch or bigger and other PA amps and speakers.

Would love Soundcraft mixer or Mackie but will consider anything - cash waiting and can collect.

Email info@sign-workshop.co.uk

DO NOT REPLY TO THIS POST!

Well there you go mate - all the advice you need is in the two links.

I would like to say that the woods you use are down to personal preference - the tone from each would be different and hence personal taste comes into it. A lot of people have done a mahogany and maple combo and liked it. I've used the same combo but the maple was a veneer so made little difference to the tone.

Whatever you use, it'll be better than a cheap shop bought one any how!

Research the tonal qualities of different woods with the search function at the top - I'm sure you'll get a better idea then. It's all I did.

If you laquer it, it's as hard as spray painting - if you're good at it, it'll be easy

If you want alternatives, I just had a go on a piece of scrap and found my next guitar's finish. I wiped 3 coats of sanding sealer onto it, letting them dry between coats and then sanded to 1000 grit. I then put 3 coats of Briwax on it and let it dry - then a good polish with the cloth and hey presto - GORGEOUS finish.

My Commander-In-Chief of the entire Southern Theatre of Pain Campaign.

You do realize your general is, uh, British, right?

That'd make him the only one here with an Army that doesn't shoot their own, drink too much / smooke too much pot to be able to fight properly, enter wars they shouldn't be in (Oh no we did that one actually! )or run away when it gets too tough! Ooops - WW III coming soon!

Oh an Cudbucket and thegarehanman - put your handbags away - it's a GOTM thread where we argue over the best fighting force in the world not some where for you to bicker!

Oh yeah - if you don't all watch out, I'll enter my Nico - 'Funky Melt' then you'll all be beaten to a pulp!

Why not try it? It doesn't cost a lot and if it goes wrong, you can use it as a teplate for a better known wood!

Looking good - as much as i'm not a fan of pointies, I keep looking at V's and thinking 'Hmm maybe I'll do me one of them!'

It's gonna be sweet!

You are correct. I should have metioned that I needed 2D not 3D. We are well aware that it is harder and more time consuming than it looks and I should have said so.

Thanks to all for pointing it out.

Chris

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I can throw togther 2d Images in Corel draw and ship out as DXFs all day long mate - if that's good enough, give me a shout and we'll sort some LP's for trade maybe. Not sure if it'll do the job for you though.

Erm Cheers.

I've added the 'wings' to the centre piece now and have it in the shop for planing down to 40mm. Template will be ready on Monday and then cut away!

Not sure if this is the right place to post this - maybe a mod could move it if needed..

I've been getting some really cheap wood recently and I thought I'd let you all in on how.

The first bit of mahogany I got (2 pieces of 10"X2"X24") was 40p in the 'offcuts bin' at my local wood merchant (they make windows/doors etc p[lus sell wood and tools n stuff)

After this fantastic find,I made sure that I took my first guitar into them so they could see what I'd done with their wood. They were amazed and instantly set about saving bits of wood for me!

I just got enough maple for a bass and a guitar neck for £4, some Ash (2 pieces 3"X1"X24") for £3.50 and some more maple - TONS OF WIERD OFF CUTS for free - useful for covers/pickup rings etc.

So, find a local woodshop who actually makes stuff too - show them what you do and get friendly, you never know what they have lying in the bin waiting to be burned!

Well, my Mahogany custom is nearly finished (must get a better name than that! ) so i figured i'd make astart on a bass.

I got some Ash (don't worry it's got more clamps on now!) for the centre (3"X2"X2')

http://www.signworks.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/...s/IMAGE_005.jpg

Mahogany (5" X 2" at 2' long) for the wings

http://www.signworks.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/...s/IMAGE_006.jpg

and some Maple for the neck (30"X3"X1") this was cheap and hence isn't quite as long as needed so I'll be scarfing a piece on the end for the headstock (it'll be a flat HS though not angled). The piece is on the far LHS NOT the one with the knot!

http://www.signworks.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/...s/IMAGE_015.jpg

Design isn't definate yet - I'm thinking of matching it to the guitar i just made (http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=19291&hl=mahogany+custom) or maybe I'll do something new.

The 30" is the size BEFORE I put a headstock on it mate.

All sounds well then. Graphite rods at the ready!

Looks like I've enough for a bass and a guitar neck!

I was thinking of using the bass's wood for a guitar neck instead and sorting something else for the bass so I don't ave to scarf joint a straight head onto it (seems a bit of a daft thing to do!)

Either way, I'm on a roll now cheers!

I did a search and couldn't find a specific answer.

I have some maple coming - 30"X3"X1" for a neck.

Now, I'm making a bass and wanted to know if this is going to need some strengthening? I'll probably be using an ebony fretboard but if not, it'll be rosewood.

Do I NEED graphite or can i get away with it just plain Maple?

Also I have the same piece but 3/4" on it's way too - is this too thin for a guitar neck?

Not bothered by how much they cost - £4!!!!

Well as I said in my first post, I'm new to this so I couldn't tell you how long it will last BUT I have heard of people (experienced people) on here using CA for binding so it can't be that bad! That's another reason I said to use it - it worked for me and MANY others here. The finish touch ups shouldn't be that hard if it's a solid but if it's a burst or something, I dunno.

Another point on the CA lasting, I don't think it likes water but apart from that I don't see why it would fail unless it's being stressed. Water and guitars don't mix well anyway but i would put a clear of some kind over it personally just in case.

OMFG! How do you vote for only one of these - I want all of them in my front room now!

Mattia got it bacause he firstly saw a fault and found a solution - a very beautiful solution. The craftsmanship is outstanding (not that i take away from anyone else - they're all fantastic) he shape works, the balance is right, the colours work, the inlay is great - a wonderfull, all round guitar!

The VJV-1 one isn't balanced to my eye butI'm sure it's a personal preference thing - the upper horm doesn't sit well with me.

The Blue Guitar is great and the aluminium is a great concept BUT it's a shape and general design I've seen a lot recently.

The WOMD is just too gimicky for me - again a personal taste thing.

The LP is another great guitar but the back looks too light for my taste - the ONLY thing I could fault on the whole guitar!

At the end of this we can only work on personal taste because there isn't a fault in ANY of them!

And mine! He he he!

That's looking REALLY nice now - just a shame about the epoxy repair - any thoughts on what you'll do for that - are you going to cut out and fill or just burst or something else?

No no - just the actual body was going to be worked from it and it turns out that when i did the design, it ended up at 3mm narrower than your 12 7/8" !!! No bad for a guess!

I just wanted to make sure that the body was similar in size to a custom. All is well Cheers fellas!

Sexual connotations

I reckon you weren't carefull enough with the glue - I used the real runny stuff so it wicked into the gap.

Just polish it up and see where it goes. Maybe a cutting paste might be needed? Do you have a pic?

The veneer on the trebble side at the back end is sanded through to a 'fade' and the rest is a solid line - DEFO a veneer.

Sand the veneer off and take it back to the solid wood underneath. The Epoxy bit would be covered up if you did a burst but otherwise will be visible even if you use a wood filler. They never match up exactly and a glue with sawdust filler won't take stain the same as the rest of the wood. Either way you'll see it if it isn't painted over - a burst would do that and give you a trans or opaque finish centre of the guitar.

Defo spray on - use an airbrush or fine tune a gun.

Thanks fellas.

Anyone actually have a LP custom they can measure in real life - although I suppose that the difference is negligible I could use either.

Try this

http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=8253

and yes, if going Silver I would definately Chrome or nickel plate it. Also have kits on this site.

Can anyone tell me the width of the red box in the pic please? (the widest point of the guitar)

This is the only measurement I need to get started.

Could someone please measure their LP? NOT A JUNIOR THOUGH!

I use corel fast enough to not need my signlab software (actually written for sign making!) or illustrator - they both are pretty much unused - it's just what you get used to and I used Corel since V3.