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themortarman

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  1. themortarman
    Ok thanks so much!!
  2. themortarman
    Another thing. I notice that he doesn't cut out the mortise till after the top is carved. Is that to prevent any tear out around the mortise when removing the bulk of the carve with a router? Would hollowing the back wood out more then in this blog make the guitar unbalanced?
  3. themortarman
    Yep that's the page. I actually built a router stand similar to what he posted on his tools page for removing the meat for the carved top. Need to find some scrapes to practice on. Thanks!!
  4. themortarman
    I am planning a set neck LP, have been doing my homework. I found a Blog Page by 'Setch'. From what I can tell instead of using a some type of angle guide to cut the mortise angle he angles the top first then goes by the top angle for cutting the mortise. So my questions are: Is that just how I am seeing this and is this way a better way of doing it. Thanks!! .
  5. themortarman
    The maple used in necks tends to take stain a little different it can turn out blotchy. If you ask places like Warmoth or USACG (which is not up and running again on finishing) they will not stain a hard Maple neck for this very reason it is difficult to be consistent it can be done. though. They are tinting the clear finishes.
  6. themortarman
    Well I changed my plan. I got extreme gas from looking around other sites at guitar necks Warmoth particularly and order a flamed finished neck. Still very pleased with the finish on the neck I am working on hopefully the lines will buff out in a week. fingers crossed. Now new question. I wanted to add a waterslide decal. What would be the best way to do this. Would I have to add a finish to the whole neck?
  7. themortarman
    I must have scratched the finish in one area when I scuffed up the surface. I didn't notice them until I misted the area with the clear. The more material I added the worst they got. I'm going to give it a week and level the back of the headstock and scuff the rest being extremely careful and then hopefully call it good. Well after I add another coat or two. The front of the headstock is looking great and the neck also just the back of the headstock has some lines some will hide behind the tuners. Thanks for all your input!!!
  8. themortarman
    Hope the original posters don't mind me asking question in this thread? Well I'm about done I ended up with 2 or three lines in the back of the neck the rest is almost like glass just waiting on the final buff. The problems is these lines I have a applied enough material I hope that I can buff them out. Is there a better way to try and get rid of these lines. Should I wait a few days and see if I can sand them out then apply a couple more coats. I better wait at least a week? I am amazed at how smooth the rest of the neck is. I could buff it by hand and I would be extremely happy all but the lines.
  9. themortarman
    Ok thanks!! This is a neck I checkrd the area that will fasten to the body and it dents pretty easy looks like it needs to sit longer I'm thinking alot longer. The reason I asked I was reading one of the turorials and I thought they mentioned they were buffing in 24hrs. I'm sure this was a much different product.
  10. themortarman
    Curious, how long after the final clear coat before you can start to buff when using this product?
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