themortarman

does any1 know how much flakes is enough for painting 1 body? 1ounce or more?

The deal I bought was about the size of a aspirin bottle. I may have used have of it.

I painted this guitar using Deft aresol lacquer and some flake stuff I bought from a hobby store.

I would lay on a wet coat and sprinkle the sparkles on, and repeat a few times. It took a LOT of clear and sanding to finally get it level. Because of the way I did it I new that it would be hard to do the whole guitar so I did a fake binding and just did the top.

With strings, to bad it's overly noisy. Going to have to work on that part next weekend I guess.

The waiting got the best of me.

Sorry Tim had to go with a gloss finish.

The bindings sure are yellow. I saw a LP Classic Custom that had even yellower bindings so I don't feel so bad after seeing the CC.

Ended up with some Seth Lovers.

Well after looking at the Cherry burst I am back closer to the burst I originally had in mind.

It's hard to capture a picture but this is a pretty good picture of how it looks. I also sprayed the binding with a tinted lacquer . It makes the Ivoroid binding look very wood like

The Binding I went with was Ivoroid . I ended up splitting a small piece and gluing it on top of the inner horn section, then making a paste from binding shavings and acetone to hide the joint.

I ended up tinting some lacquer and sprayed the binding to give it a more yellowed\aged look.

While that one picture did look pretty good actual looked amazing. In person and every other picture it was really dark and orange.

One more of the new found cherry burst.

While that picture looked ok, in person the burst was dark and too orange and I just couldn't like it. Decide to start over from scratch on the top.

Much closer to a faded Cherry Burst

Damnz I missed the HB route some with a scew I used to temporally hold the top to the body. Hopefully the mounting ring will hide that.

Thanks Ben!!

It turned out darker then I had planned. I just couldn't leave well enough alone .

But I'm digging it.

Thanks!!

Setch, how do you like the Golden Age pups?

I have heard a lot of good things about these sleeper pups.

Burst with a few coats of sanding sealer.

Did you manage to actually use 0.25" thick binding? This is my first read of the thread, and IMO that is way too thick.

Looks like on the photo you have a standard binding thickess (0.06 or 0.09).

Oh no!

Sorry I meant .25" tall not thick. It's .60" thick Ivoroid.

Moving right along. Be ready to set the neck soon. Need to check and double check things a 100 times over before it's cemented.

Thanks Setch!!

I had discovered your blog page about 3 months ago, have be studying every chance I get.

Here's a profile shot. Nicked the top experimenting the binding should hided it.

Believe or not that mahogany was all rough cut I did all the surface work in my garage. Damnz that was some work.

Should I be concerned that the mahogany back is closer to 1 5/8" then 1 3/4"? The top is a full 3/4"

My boards were well over 2.5", like a dummy I tried to remove the bulk with my new the me band saw that I have very little experience with

They first board I got wobble cut so when I ran it in my thickness jig it was under 1 3/4" then add some time on the belt sander.

I would think they would but I can't find one locally.

I may just take it to someone.

Got a chance to test out my own "Sawdust Generator". Worked like a charm I can see where I could use it to route out the binding and everything.

With a little modification I was able to run a binding channel perfectly on a piece of scrap with just using the adjustable stop. No bushing bit.

Now the only problem I may run in to is I my have a issue turning around the cut out. Instead of the board as the stop I may have to align some type of pin, offset from the bit, on floor of the "Sawdust generator"

Thanks so much, Setch!!!

Here's a test block, I have a curved piece that worked just a well.

Thanks!!

When you planed the angle for the neck angle I take that you carry that angle all the way across the width of the body.

Another thing,

I was hoping to use .25" binding all the way around even where the horn turns in to where it meets the neck.

Is that just a matter of spending some extra time carving a transitional point in that area?

Was planning a burst finish done similar the way ReRanch describes the Gibson burst. I have all the color in Trans Tint except my Redish color is in a Trans Fast water soluble dye.

Can this be added to a Lacquer mixture without any problems

Oh, , Thanks!!!

That's good for the top but the back I'll have to come up with something else.

The lumber is 8/4.

Sorry I'm sure this one has been discussed.

What's the best way to true up 2 edges so they can be joined?

I have a router\table and few other power tools.

Would a straight edge and a template bushing work?

Oh sorry!!

I guess that the scarf joint on the headstock would be called a "Spanish luthier's joint "

Setch, are you completly appose to the Gibson style neck angle transition.

I see many builders use the Spanish luthier's joint and some will do it the traditional Gibson way.