SamIAmUBUF

On the MIMF, there seems to be a general dislike of Gorilla Glue as PU glues go (others are better, apparently). Also...why do you want to use gorilla glue? You realize that titebond is more than strong enough, easier to use/clamp, leaves a less visible glue line? I don't see any advantage to use a polyurethane glue in this application. ← because I already have a bottle. there's no sense in buying something else if this works well. wouldn't you agree? also, I have a lot of experience using gorilla glue, and I've never had a problem with clamping, and I have yet to see a visible glue line after removing the excess and sanding. I just figued that, since I've never had a problem with it in any other situation, it might work here too. Your opinion is well taken. I'm leaning toward buying titebond if nobody here has used gg for this. Thanks for your input

A lot of people have given the advice that titebond is the glue to use for almost all purposes, but has anyone ever actually used gorilla glue for attaching body wings? My neck-body joint is going to be extremely tight and you can go ahead and assume that I'm clamping it as if it's trying to escape. I want to hear someone sat they've tried it on a similar application and it was successful

I've saved all of the wood from cutting the body, so I will be sure to do that. thanks for the advice

what's worse is, I got the name from my favorite drink at the local coffeehouse (a 6-shot latte) again, I promise I'll get you pictures. possibly one with my feet in it, so I can join the rest of you

I actually like that color more than the darker dye jobs. It wouldn't be quite the same on a warlock, but it works here

yeah. I'm still working on the final touches, but it's close. I really wish I had some pics for you, but I'm too cheap to buy a camera. I'm upset that nobody's commented on the name yet. Sigh

What electronics are you fitting? I'd reckon you'd just want the smallest cavity the electronics require - why detract any more from the wood of the bass? ← I have duncan basslines 3-band (low and high are stacked) and an onboard mini overdrive, which takes up as much room as a normal pot. The body design is modeled after a ritter raptor so having a subsantial amount of wood shouldn't be a problem either way, but I still agree with you 100% on a side note, I'll have pictures once I have access to a camera

I've spent a good portion of the past week in the machine shop, and I'm about ready to shape the neck and glue the through-body neck to the wings (after finals week that is). Then, I'll be ready to pull out the router and go to town. any final suggestions or insight? I could especially use suggestions regarding the shape of the electronics cavity. I have yet to make a final decision with regard to that. Thanks for your help

Yeah I had things pretty well planned out-- but I've got this bad habit of changing my mind as I get into it (well, I look at it as allowing the project to evolve...hey, I'm an artist, not a craftsman!) In this case, I got nervous about the strength of my neck joint (when I discovered that my set neck was a false set neck after all) and decided to lower the neck deeper into the body, which is why the Badass now stands a bit too tall (but I was prepared for that eventuality --that's why I have two other wraparound style to bridges here to choose from, both offer a lower profile, both fit the studs...but now that I think about it, I like the idea of recessing the studs, I think it'll end up looking great). SamIAM: sorry, you can't close a thread when it gets a bit warm for you...on the other hand, this is all a learning process for a lot of us, it's only normal that people will make mistakes --that's how you learn-- and no one here will put you down for that. But it does help to give more info upfront --like the fact that you're working on a neckthrough and the type of bridge, etc. ← the type of bridge/neck joint are completely irrelevant to my question. I just wanted to know what measurement the neck angle calculator is indicating. As for why I want to close this topic; there are roughly 80 threads about neck angles. I see no reason to have another one conveying the exact same information.

I suggest we close this topic. I got the answer I was looking for, and that's all that I really cared to hear. For the record, I planned this out very thoroughly. Unfortunately, as you all should know by now, things don't always go as planned. I'm simply making a correction to compensate for bad information I was given.

Idch, you've been around here long enough to know the golden rule - draw it out fullsize!! This stuff won't happen to you if you invest 30 minutes in drawing a few lines on a piece of paper... certainly a damn sight easier than recessign studds of machining new saddles! Listen up people - draw it out fullsize!!! AAAAGHaaaaaaghh! ← I did, but I had the wrong measurements for the bridge. chill, we all remember the golden rule

it's a through-body. there is no neck pocket

I'm using an ETS mkIII bridge on my custom 6-string bass

what I figured I'd do is set the bridge so it's 1/16" higher than the top of the fretwire at it's lowest setting. that way, I can adjust it up to 3/32"

quite a few people have directed me to this neck angle calculator. can anyone explain why the only way ( according to this calculator) to have proper action and a neck angle of zero is to have the bridge height the same as your fretboard height on a flat top guitar. wouldn't your strings just be resting tightly against the fretboard? To be more specific, this is my challenge: I have a 1/4" tall fretboard and a 1/2" tall bridge. I want to recess the bridge such that I don't need to angle the neck. to find the proper depth I filled out the form a number of times, reducing the string height by 1/16" each time to simulate a deeper cavity. When I got to 1/4", I realized something must be screwy (it's probably me, but I figured it would be worth asking).

http://www.gocarlo.com/lagalerie/images/de...profile-512.jpg ← Oh good lord. I have nothing to say

thanks for the advice

I would love to make my own, but I'm sharing this wood shop with every achitecture student at UB, so I don't have enough solo access to the machines to do this. Also, I only have access to the shop for another week or so On a side note, does anyone know of a way to stop time so I can finish my bass before finals roll around?

I can't find a radius sanding block wide enough for my 6-string bass neck. I'm looking for a 3 1/2" wide, 16" or 20" radius block(haven't decided yet). any suggestions?

I'm all about active circuits. How would I wire this thing?

well, that idea was good while it lasted

While we're on the LED/pickup switch topic, Anyone know how I might wire a bicolor LED to a blend pot such that each color is tied to a single pickup?

I want to use this technique to do some inlay work entirely with purpleheart filler paste on a rosewood fretboard. will this work?

Personally, if I were to make a guitar likr this, I'd use a headstock with a smoother profile to match the body's design. I really like the body though. With the reversed headstock and the modified body, I keep looking at it thinking it's a lefty modified to fit a right-handed player. I'd like to see the finished product

The top horn is big, but actually, there is one thick part (at the top) supporting the weight of the instrument. The rest tapers down to basically a rib. If that was confusing, think of it this way: If you cut a cross section, it would look like a upside down teardrop The idea behind this body was to make it look big while keeping the weight down by using a lot of beveling/tapering. You guys are really keeping my design in check. Thanks so much for all of your help