vaxination

yes, i am afraid i will be making my own template. i've made other templates in the past but i had something to model the template after. in this case i don't have a model of what i want. i have taken some measurements off of my prs, however, i couldn't take any real measurements after the tenon goes into the body (plus it is a short tenon). anyway, i guess i will need at least a 2-1/2" deep blank (and about 30+ inches long) to accommodate the neck angle and the tenon. it looks as though the part of the tenon that enters my prs body is about 1-7/16" deep. i will whip out my graphic supplies and begin the drawings with my best guesstimates. however, if anyone has any 'cross-section' templates to sell, the offer still stands.

i want to try my hand at a set neck project. i prefer to make a laminated deep set neck (long tenon) similar to the ones that doug makes (doug's site). anyway, i would like to know if anyone has a template of the cross-section that i can purchase or maybe doug could sell me a template yes, i know... why don't i just make it myself. ok, good point, however, just like many of us have purchased guitar body templates, i would like to do the same with a cross section of a set neck to make each laminate. so, anyone who has a template and wants to make a few $$$ for their effort, let me know. hmm... i hope someone can save me some time making the template.

disregard... i went ahead and tried it on scrap and it sprayed fine. i did thin it though as it is pretty thick.

can behlens vinyl sanding sealer be sprayed or does it have to be brushed on? if it can be sprayed is it necessary to thin it?

does anyone know what size bit myka use on his jig?

admittedly, i haven't built a neck through yet, however, i would think attaching the wings would be similar to glueing a body up. just make sure the edges are cut clean and true then glue with your favorite wood glue (titebond, for example) and clamp. i have seen some builders who save the pieces they cut off when bandsawing out the body shape to use as clamping cauls. again, i haven't built a neck through so take my advice with a grain of salt.

thanks for all the replies. living in hawaii, my ability to find nitro is limited. however, there is a woodcraft here and they have behlens stringed instrument lacquer which i will probably use. i wanted to see what other alternatives i had. i have used deft out of a rattlecan before for other woodworking projects and it worked well. i have spray equipment now so i was wondering about the quart and gallon size. another thing about living in the islands is that i can't odered any of the stuff online because of air shipping restrictions on flammable items. anyway, i will probably go ahead and use the behlens stuff.

i have been doing searches on spraying deft (clear) from the quart and gallon cans thru a gun and i have noticed that some of you folks say you are doing just that. however, reading the label on the back of the can, it says do not spray or add thinner. hmm... what gives? can those of you who have sprayed deft thru a gun tell us about your experiences?

how do you folks apply epoxy filler on the edges and inside radiuses? i know about forcing the epoxy into the grain with a straight edge and trying to scrape the excess off to minimize sanding, however, i was wondering what techniques people use on the "curves" and tight areas.

thanks guys, i appreciate your input!

yeah, i'm gonna go ahead and tape off and spray (seal) the natural binding first to keep the dyes from the top and back from leaching into it. i have some behlens water based grain filler that i used for a project a couple of months ago. i guess i can use that, however, i have read so much about filling with epoxy that i wanted to give that a try. i was just wondering how i would tape off the faux binding to protect it from the epoxy (especially if i dye it). even tho it is sealed i was concerned that the dye'd epoxy would "stain" the top of the sealed faux binding. if i taped it off then the epoxy would glue down the tape. i guess i could just dye the mahogany and apply the filler over it. it probably won't make much difference if clear epoxy gets on top of the binding. oh, btw, using any stewmac or even reranch stuff is out for me cuz they can't send finishes and painting stuff by air (i live in hawaii). however, we have a woodcraft here that sells behlens stuff and from what i understand that is pretty much the same as the stewmac stuff.

since i have finished my build and am ready to begin the finishing process, i have been reading a lot of posts for using epoxy grain filler. during my searches, i see that a lot of you dye the mahogany which is what i would like to do. i was thinking something like a dark reddish brown to darken the mahogany. i also believe that many of you are mixing the dye with the filler. i haven't decided whether i will dye the wood directly and apply the epoxy filler or mix it. anyway, here are my questions... should i dye my quilted maple top first (i am also doing the natural binding thing) before dying the mahogany back? i also plan on taping and spraying clear on the natural binding area first to kind seal it from the dye. ok, so if i mix the dye into the epoxy and apply it to the mahogany back, how do i keep the mixture off the maple when i get to the edges? if i tape it, it seems the tape will be trapped under the epoxy. searching and reading the posts sure answer a lot of questions, however, it also brings more questions to mind!

thanks, i am always looking for good brad point bits. in fact, i was trying to find a few just this past week (i need a 10mm for another wood working hobby i do). i have some fairly nice brad points, but they are not premium. nice bits always makes a task go a lot smoother. i will definitely consider the lee valley bits.

when fretting up your necks, what do you do for the glue stains on the fretboard (using CA glue, that is).

i am interested in the black limba body blank. i sent you a PM.

yeah, i NEED some of that limba!!!

unfotunately those places that they list sell either their guitars or the original floyds, not the speedloader. i am not sure why the speedloader is so hard to get.

oh man, bummers! btw, when you buy the speedloaders do they come with the headpiece? can anyone help out a fellow guitar building retard? where can i find those things (argh, i don't wanna use ed romans!).

they sell non-speedloader floyd rose parts and the ABM headless parts, however, i would like to locate the floyd rose speedloader parts.

for my next project, i would like to build a headless guitar. does anyone know where i can purchase a speedloader and the headpiece (nut)? i know i can get the parts from ed romans, but i prefer not to order from him.

hmm... frankly, i think black limba tele would look hot... kinda like this one!

now i am really bummed out that i didn't get some!!! thanks!

whoa! i don't think he was arguing with anyone!

very cool! i have been trying to get my hands on some black limba for quite a while now. it is worth the wait.

oops sorry! i missed your reply about selling all your stock. i need to check the sell/trade threads more often.