AnthemBassMan

Yep. That and the one from the input jack if you're looking at just a basic guitar wiring job.

L8R,

Matt D.

I just use the rag trick like Setch says. It works well enough to not have to buy a special tool to do the same thing.

L8R,

Matt D.

Also the Carvin S60 and AP11's &13's have the flat sides with no flange except for the adjusting holes. I have an older set of S60's and I really like them. And the price is good too. They run between $30 to $33 depending if you go with the S60's or AP11's.

L8R,

Matt D.

Congrats on fixing the problem. Just one more little piece of info you can tuck away for future reference.

L8R,

Matt D.

-Actually even though it looks like a standard 'bucker ring, it's listed as a mini bucker mounting ring. Here's the description they have on their site. They have them in chrome and black.

"PURM-2 - Mini Humbucker Mounting Ring

Mini Humbucker, Metal Mounting Ring, Black

Price: $4.95"

L8R,

Matt D.

I don't know if Gretsch is using the same size, but the original mini-buckers were mounted inside a routed out P-90 housing. Are you talking about the rings around these p'ups?

Here's a set from the Guitar Parts USA website. Not sure if you're thinking about these or not.

L8R,

Matt D.

Nope. They're either the soapbar style or the dogeared style. I've never seen a P-90 with a factory mounting ring.

L8R,

Matt D.

Well, you could try a Carvin M22N, or a M22V Both hotter pickups. Around $50 delivered. And the killer part about Carvin, If you dont like it, return it in 10 days for a full refund. American made too.

←

This is a good pick. Carvin doesn't get a lot of credit in this department, but their electronics are pretty good. You could also check out their H-22 p'ups. Alan Holdsworth models. I have personal experience with these in a Carvin AE185 and they are sweet!

L8R,

Matt D.

You might want to consider buying your new pots from someone like Black Rose Custom or RS Guitarworks. They match the pots they sell. So if you want to buy a set of four 500k pots, you'll get four pots guarenteed to be within 500k-540k. This is a lot better than the pots that came in my Epi. I measured them and they were ranging from 394k-510k. That's just a wee bit off. Or you could just head to your local shop and pick up some CTS pots. They may not be matched, but they'll be good quality. Btw, what kind of guitar are you working on?

L8R,

Matt D.

-I have a Epi Les Paul Classic that's a mahogany body with an alder top, laminaterde with quilted maple. From my understanding Epi's are usually alder for the solid black, and mahogany backs/alder tops for the 'bursts with either a flame or quilt veneer. Mine also has a two piece back and roughly a 3 or 4 piece top. I still like it though. I pulled the Epi electronics and replaced the p'ups with DiMarzio Virtual PAF's. A bit lower powered, but sweeter sounding.

L8R,

Matt D.

-Yeah, classic sign of one p'up out of phase with the other. Just flip the ground and hot wire around like said before.

L8R,

Matt D.

-Yeah, just buy or borrow a multi-meter. Even my cheap Epi pots had the rating stamped into the back. Yours is probably just covered up with solder.

L8R,

Matt D.

-Sweet Epi you have there. It should be a solid mahogany body. The top is a veneer. Still looks sweet though. And they only came in trans black and vintage 'burst. I have an Epi serial # program and here's what it says about your new baby. Congrats again.

"Your guitar was made at the

Unsung Plant, Korea

May 2001

Production Number: 3517"

L8R,

Matt D.

Did you use ferules for the neck screws, or just let the screw heads go into the wood? My old Strat that I refinished has been taken apart enough times that I can put the screws into the heel and shove them through with my thumb. Is this what you're talking about?

L8R,

Matt D.