psikoT

Awesome piece of wood... can't wait to see the fretboard.

EDIT: ok, I saw it, didn't remember... I was thinking that a maple fretboard would fits very well with that rosewood, but that one you got is even cooler.

I guess those kind of neck templates are mostly intended to be used in a router table.  I agree that it looks stupid being one piece, since you don't need any template to trim the neck/fretboard...

So finally I could manage to get a 0.8mm stripe of mahogany to bind the fretboard. The outer binding is wider than needed, I will trim it together with the neck once it's glued, I think...

Next step is cutting the shape of the headstock before gluing the fretboard.

I really would love to cut the joints at 45 degrees, but I have no time for such details...

14 hours ago, Chuck_Chill-Out said:

Oh, I've named it - THE BRICK. Sucker weighs a lot. Something I've learned, maple is heavy.

Weight is, from my last two builds, the main criteria while choosing the wood for the body... probably is the age.

I'd also interested to see how that katana works...  

I think that small tripod adds an extra relief to the neck, due to the weight of the body... I'd say it's better if you level with the neck in the air or at least avoid any support which raises the body.

Your next build is gonna be an acoustic, I can feel it...

That was the shop where I bought it, also the radius beam and some other cool stuff... I highly recommend it, if you live in Europe.

The mitterbox is the most expensive thing they have, but it's worth every cent. 

I have no idea how to take a picture, so I use the automatic setup... there are two yellow lights and the orange wall, which reflects to the yellowish table, that's why I get these warm photos I guess...

Finally spent most of the morning preparing the fretboard and the afternoon setting up the mitterbox, so I could make few slots only... since the scale is 666 mm. I have no template, but still much more precise than the manual way.

Finally got the headstock cap in place and the truss rod access is done. Next step is working on the fretboard. I have to cut a couple of 3 mm. strips before slotting it, as I will need them for the binding. Hope I can do that tomorrow.

Since the neck is 99% equal to the previous one, I thought it would make no sense to post the same pictures of the same process, with the same wood, in the same place. So I tell you what I did and you imagine.  

Routed the truss rod channel and glued the ears and the rosewood-mahogany sandwich to the headstock. I also had some time to prepare the fretboard. I just wanted to show you this stupidly cool tiny piece of wood.

This is the first time I use rosewood in a fretboard, always used ebony, and I was not sure, so I bought both madagascar rosewood and 1st grade ebony, just in case. After tapping with the fingers both fretboards, this one gave me a bright belly sound, whilst the ebony one had a stupid mute response, like tapping a piece of hard rubber... that was really dissapointing, so finally I think I made a good choice. 

1 hour ago, KnightroExpress said:

Thank you so much, everyone! 

Maybe on the next one I'll just extend the treble side of the fretboard to meet the pickup cavity and add a partial 25th fret. That's one more, innit? 

I wanted to suggest that but I couldn't find the right way to say it,

That fretboard looks amazing... you guys have access to some sexy woods. It's a pity that you had to route the little corner at the end, I would file the pickup instead. 

I've heard that elastic glues are not good for instruments, as they tend to minimize the vibrations... it makes sense to me, but you never know about the hundred of theories you can find out there.

I use Illustrator. 

Very nice, congratulations! It looks fantastic.

Thanks, glad you like it... is not really difficult, just need some patience.

Sorry, I missed the comments in this page while quoting... thanks btw!

3 hours ago, 2.5itim said:

I see what you're say psikot, thanks for those pics that looks great! Do you have a build thread on that? 

Actually, I'm not really proud of that build I've shown, as it was my first attempt with body carving, but maybe you can find this one more inspiring. That time I've used a straight router bit for the security contour. Hope you find it useful.

http://www.projectguitar.com/forums/topic/47269-7-strings-ashwenge

You really don't need to spend $125 in a bit like that, one which is smaller would work as well. The important thing is that you have to keep the contour clean, even if it's only 10 mm... the rest you do with the gouge or rasping:

1 hour ago, 2.5itim said:

I don't see how that would work tho, that bearing would be riding on the top that I'm trying to cut right?

Sorry, I didn't understand what you want to do with that router bit.

Something like that but with a copy bearing:

7 minutes ago, 2.5itim said:

Im guessing with buying a new gouge I probably shouldn't have to sharpen it? Hopefully it would come pretty sharp from the manufacturer and then just run it down the strop a few times. 

I bought a Pfile one which came already sharp, and the link Scott posted also says is hand sharpen... but I think that's something from Pfeil, not sure about other brands.

I understand your anger, but next time you may find a piece of wood which matches the grain direction...

Just kidding. Even if you've already decided to paint it solid, I'd tell you that is not really necessary to keep that as a failure anymore. I'd definitely route it again and put two humbuckers together. There's the exact room for that. The only thing is that you have to make a custom ring, but that's not a big deal.

Congratulations, you've got a very nice instrument! Hope you get addicted and never stop building.

Go for the 8 strings first... no, wait, make the les paul first... damn, I can't decide either...