JDK2002

I want to wire an LP with push-pulls for a Jimmy Page style wiring, but also include a "varitone" rotary switch. But I wanted to do it stealthily, without adding another knob

Could it be hidden under the pickguard?

Could it be done where the pickup selector is? (As far as I know this would require a three-way toggle overtop a rotary switch)

Where else could it be thrown in, without sacrificing the Jimmy Page wiring?

Slightly used pickups, soldered into an Ibanez AX120.

Pickup 1: Seymour Duncan "Jazz"

Pickup 2: Seymour Duncan "JB"

Want to trade either one for either a Seymour Duncan Pearly Gates and/or a Gibson Dirty Finger. Great tone, they work great as a pair.

Not that there is anything wrong with the design concept, but those sides will be risky. Remeber bent sides do not have that much exposed end grain. Another thought from an acoustic guitar design point of view. Stiff sides are a plus as sides that are overly flexable tend to dampen the action of the soundboard. Another thought about soundboards. This design will not have a sounboard that acts at all like an acoustic. You have a center block that will freeze the top for the most part. You really wouldn't want it to act like an acoustic because that would not improve piezo or magnetic pickups performance. I would personally opt for thicker sides maybe 1/2-5/8". Top and back thickness 3/16"-1/4". If you want a more active body refine your center block(minimise it- but maintain enough material to keep the structure and components in tact). If you are really wanting sides that thin. Maybe bent sides and braced top is more in line with your expectations (more of a full blown jazz box). Take the suggestions for what they are worth. You may be testing a theory that you are basing your design on and I wouldn't want to discourage experimentation.

Peace,Rich

Wow, very informative, thanks!

I wanted to avoid something that would cause feedback problems that a lot of archtops give when overdriven, but use the piezo with the neck to get a jazz tone when I do want that sound, but have enough body to switch to the bridge and player overdriven rock/blues, all with a lightweight guitar that has that "alive" feeling.

Don't be surprised if those .15" thick sides blow out when you try to mill them. I'd make it about .5". This will allow a bit of a roundover on the back as well. That center block design is very, very common. Don't expect it to sound a whole lot different than a solidbody. It will probably sound a bit different, just not nearly like an actual hollowbody or acoustic.

peace,

russ

I wanted to change the vibration of the guitar for use with an L.R. Baggs T-Bridge, without losing the solidbody sound when switching over to the magnetic pickups. Thanks for the advice!

I have designed another guitar in Rhino, again with the intent of it being a CNC-Made guitar.

http://xs307.xs.to/xs307/06415/Idea.jpg

The idea (I'm sure it's been done before) is to hollow out a blank (In this case, I was thinking Mahogany or Koa) to give it a sort of acoustic property, leaving a center chunk for pickups and bridge. This particular design actually uses the cavity to support a soundboard inside of it (Spruce or Cedar in this case). My biggest concern is, will a CNC tear out the wood when it pockets the cavities, when the sides become thinner and thinner? Or is it a workable design?

Sorry for more of these fantasy design questions.

The sides are actually .15" thick, and the bottom is much thicker (Not a uniform thickness, it is a bit of a bowl design with swelling towards the outside)

where are you located?

Harrisburg, PA.

a price usually helps.

Sure. Let's say.. $220.00 O.B.O., or equivalent instrument (guitar, bass, etc;)

Want to sell or trade my Schecter Hot Rod '39.

Great condition, I bought it new. Black, pearl binding, super cool inlay on the neck. Two Duncan Design humbuckers, string-through-body design. This was the guitar made for the Guitar Center's 39th Anniversary.

I will post pics of my guitar later today.

http://www.harmony-central.com/Newp/2003/Hotrod-39-lg.jpg

As far as a carved top explorer, I've never seen one, the shape doesnt really lend itself the same way a Les Paul does. But regardless:

http://xs107.xs.to/xs107/06400/carvedtop.jpg

I roughed that out this morning. It could be done.

wow awsome design...i have rhino too but im too dumb to work it so i just screw around and try to make weird shapes lol

There is no such thing as too dumb, it's just a matter of time.

Here's a quick little tutorial:

In the Top viewport, load a guitar design (Optional)

Type "InterpCrv"

Trace the guitar design, paying attention to corners and horns. You'll probably need more points in the corners to get it right. If you're freestyling (no design in the backround), you may want to allow yourself more points then necessary.

I can't think of the next command, but with your curve highlighted, turn control points on. (I think the command might be "ControlPointsOn". You'll get a display of all your point, and now you can tweak your curve to your specifications. This is why I said freestylers should leave more points in, so you have more to tweak. You can also delete points here that are causing problems.

When you are done, hit the escape key to turn off the control points.

With your curve selected again, type "ExtrudeCrv". Before you extrude it, check to see if in the command bar it says "Cap=Yes". If it says "Cap=No", type "C" and press enter to turn capping on.

This is a bit of an idiosyncratic step, but I think it works pretty well for guitar design. When it asks for extrusion length, type "1.75" (For a 1 3/4" thick body. If you're doing something thicker/thinner, your value will change.") Don't worry if your guitar appears chunky at this point, because it's actually at the proper height, and the length and width are wrong.

Select your body and type "Scale2D". This will uniformly scale your length and width without changing your height. You may want to use the Perspective viewport for reference so you can get a good idea of how the guitar looks when you scale.

Voila! A simple guitar body. To do any pocketing, you're going to use the command "BooleanDifference". If you want to round the edges, use "FilletEdge". Play around with it!

Do you have a CNC? The reason I ask is that I have a new CNC and also use Rhino. I'm just looking at the learning curve for building a guitar or two as a hobby for myself (I use the CNC for other purposes during the day). I've thought about cutting a body/neck or two just to get experience with bit selection. Let me know if you want me to play around with your file. I'm struggling to find spare time right now, but where there's a will...

You know, of course, the neck needs to be separated from the body before any toolpaths can be written. Otherwise, I think its looking pretty good. How do you plan to run the pickup wires to the other cavity? I'm also guessing the fretboard needs to be cut separately (or purchased).

I don't personally have a CNC, but a friend-of-a-friend does.

The file can be split up, any part isolated. I was planning on hand-drilling holes for the wiring.

If you'd like, I can send you the file, there are some parts that need re-done before I can (the neck pocket isn't completely squared away, I plan on lowering the "horn" on the right a tad to provide more access to upper registers, etc; etc; etc; nothing is ever really finished with me.)

Oh, I didn't mention this in the first post. The bridge is drilled for the Schaller 456 Stop/Tail w/ Fine Tuners. Haven't done the tuner holes yet.

Hello. I have been working in Rhinoceros to design a guitar for personal use, to be cut from CNC, and was looking for critique along the lines of design flaws, potential problems, etc;

I wanted to design a hardtail 24-fret guitar, explorer style (but profiled to be lightweight, similar to an Ibanez S Series design), 2 humbuckers, 25.5 scale. So, some specs on the model as of right now:

Width of neck pocket: 2"

Width at nut: 1 11/16"

Length from nut to center of bridge mounting holes: 25 1/2"

Humbucker pocket specs from Hill Instruments website.

Neck Radius: 10" to 16"

The frets are on the model simply for display.

How CNC-able is this model? Any advice at all would be greatly appreciated.

http://xs307.xs.to/xs307/06406/explorerbf.JPG

Ok, so I was trying to replace the pickups (first time ever doing this) on my guitar. The guy at the shop said it would be easy (Ha!) and so far I have done nothing but get solder all over my table and that's about it.

I'm trying to replace the AH pickups on an AX120 with SD SH-2N and SH-4 JB pickups but...

http://xs.to/xs.php?h=xs61&d=05525&f=DSCF0517.JPG

Ok, so theres a rogue black wire, I haven't messed with the bridge pickup yet, and the neck pickup (which I believe to be installed) isn't making noise when a string is threaded and plucked.

So... the guitar is in a coma right now.

I need to get it setup to work with the 3 way toggle

Any advice? Did I kill my guitar?

Also: http://www.ibanez.com/wiring/wire.asp?y=2000&w=AX120

If that helps.

Hello,

I wanted to know where I could buy holographic material similar to the one used in the holoflash finish tutorial. I also wanted to know, could I lay it down first, then mask off a pattern using vinyl tape and then painting over it? The desired effect is something like this: