vincent

Alright, thank you. I'll do that. About the area where the tailpiece itself is pressed against the finish, any risk of seeing cracks ?

Thanks again, this really helps me !

Hi Prostheta ! Good point about the glue joint !

You know, I was afraid of not liking it because I knew it was bent even though it would be quite impossible to notice. But in the end, I like it very much. It is flat in my head =P

I have a question about something else : I want to use a trapeze tailpiece and I am worried about the fact that the part that is screwed to the side may apply a great amount of pressure on the nitro finish and crack it. Am I right to be afraid ? Is there anything I can do to prevent it ?

Hi !

Just wanted to share with you all how things were going with the curved guitar. Since the back ain't flat, there is no way to tell it is curved. So I moved forward and here it is today.

As you can see, the template slid while routing the bridge pickup route, thus depriving me of a trans finish (the patch extends outside the pickup ring)

I'll try to post updates whenever something cool happen with this build.

Bye !

Maull, I figured I could save the back and make a top out of it for a new one, but this time with a solid back like a CS 336. But on the other hand I don't want to give up what I began.

I'll post here the progress done on that one.

OK, well... I'm gonna spare myself the effort and keep going on. The fact is I have easy access to epoxy glue and the top is epoxied to the core. If I steam the whole stuf, the top will probably delaminate. It is really hard to think of all the time still to be spent on a guitar that will end deformed. Well at least I have learnt a few things (like I can get good council anytime over here, thanks !)

There is a block in contact with the top where the bridge is going to be. Maybe if I install some sort of truss rod across the body...

I forgot to mention that the top is already attached to the limba. Therefore, I can not machine both sides of it.

What I mean is : if you cut the wood under the green line, the edge will be thinner by the center than on the sides. Wether I add thickness or not...

Hi Scott !

My first thought was to machine it flat indeed, then add wood to compensate. But this will leave the guitar with the edges thicker by the upper and lower bout than toward the rear end strap button. About 8 mm thicker, that is... See what I mean ?

Hi ! I'm new here, my name is Vincent, 35, living in France.

I'm in the process of building a semi hollow electric, designed with a scaled down 335 shape. The body is a hollowed out 2 piece limba plank, the top and back are pressed laminated maple.

After 2 months not working on the guitar, I took it today and noticed the limba has a serious curve now. Needless to say it was perfectly flat before. Obviously it wasn't as dry as the seller told me.

Can I steam it back to shape ? How di I apply the steam ? How long do I need to keep it under clamps ?

Any advise would be greatly appreciated !

Thanks for reading.