Jude

Thanks, just what I needed. 

Planning to cut my first inlay using my CNC.

Any issues cutting MOP? I plan to use a 0.8mm endmill.

Recommendations on depth of cut, speeds, feeds, etc. and any advice would be greatly apreciated.

Thanks 

I'm trying to do a Gibson style headstock inlay. Looking for inlay material, I found 0.006" abalone on Amazon. Is this too thick to be applied onto the feedstock without routing the pocket? Would it be feasible to bury this in the sprayed finish?

https://www.amazon.com/White-Fresh-Water-abalone-veneer/dp/B01M3QWSXH

Thanks 

I'm spraying my first body using Preval and nitro thinned 2:1. I'm not the best judge, but I seem to be getting significant Orange peel. I sprayed 4 tinted coats followed by 8 clear coats. If I flat sand, I'm getting into the tinted coats.  Any advice? I'm spraying from about 10" away.

Thanks

Thanks for the help.

I guess I was thinking that un-thinned would run less, but I didn't think about the solids.  I'll try thinning and going easier on it.  The color is building up much more slowly than I expected.  I'm using the 1/2 oz. per quart ratio recommended in the Colortone instructions.  Is there any reason I can't go heavier on the stain to lacquer ratio?

If I wiped off the color and exposed the wood, is the sealer coat gone as well?  No big deal if it is, this is a cheap practice body but it would be nice to know for future endeavors and errors.

Thanks again

I'm finishing my first body using Stew mac Colortone nitrocellolose lacquer.  I put on Stew mac nitro sanding sealer with few problems. A couple runs, but it was obvious I was being heavy handed. Now I'm trying a color coat, tinted with Colortone stain, un-thinned. I started with a very light coat, no problem. The later coats run along the edge, specifically near the horns. I'm spraying with Preval, and hanging to dry after I spray. The last coat seemed to dissolve the earlier coats and ran. After the last attempt, I just wipedit, and all the color came right off. I knew the latter coats could dissolve previous coats somewhat, but enough to cause a run?

Help!

I'm finishing my first body using Stew mac Colortone nitrocellolose lacquer.  I put on Stew mac nitro sanding sealer with few problems. A couple runs, but it was obvious I was being heavy handed. Now I'm trying a color coat, tinted with Colortone stain, un-thinned. I started with a very light coat, no problem. The later coats run along the edge, specifically near the horns. I'm spraying with Preval, and hanging to dry after I spray. The last coat seemed to dissolve the earlier coats and ran. After the last attempt, I just wipedit, and all the color came right off. I knew the latter coats could dissolve previous coats somewhat, but enough to cause a run?

Help!

I would be using Stew Mac colortone in either water or alcohol. I'm just trying to decide which.

Thanks, I've heard of issues with stain bleeding based on the finish solvent.

I want to do a cherry red stain under lacquer. Should I use water or alcohol based stain? Do I need vinyl sealer, or can I use thinned lacquer?

Something like the Graphtech ghost, but for a 12 string.

Has anybody seen one? I haven't been able to find anything. 

Thanks 

Thanks, I just assumed I'd want full range. If there is a better choice, I'd be happy to hear about it.

Any tips on speaker installation would be especially helpful. 

I'm working on a 85% headless Tele for use as a travel/practice guitar. I was considering putting a speaker in it. Anybody have any lessons learned? I was going to use the 2w preamp from guitar fetish and a 2-1/2 full range speaker.

Thanks

Is there a standard bridge post spacing? I'm using a Saga kit as my first attempt at a  piezoelectric hybrid using a Graphtech Ghost T-O-M. The predrilled bridge post holes are too close together. What's the beast fix for this? The guitar will be around  for a while so I want it to look nice.

Thanks 

Has anyone tried one of the cheap headless guitar systems that you can get on Amazon or EBay? I'll probably go with Hipshot but I'd save a few bucks if I could get away with it. I'd prefer no tremolo but I could live with it.

Thanks

I may sand it a little thinner, not sure yet.

Rosewood

I'm getting ready to apply some 3/32 veneer to the back of the peghead. It will need to curve to meet the volute. I'd planned on steaming it. Is Titebond 2 a good glue choice, or should I use epoxy? Is there a better method than steaming to bend it? Thanks

What's a good (preferably free) program to look at different finish colors and patterns?

Thanks

Is yours playable? I've never been super impressed with the electronics, but physically it's an absolute dream. It'll be months if not years before I get the courage to start cutting into it. I still have to decide exactly what I'm going to put in it and test, plus I have another project on my test bed right now. I'm going to keep the guts so I can restore it if needed, but I'm happy to open it up and take some pictures. I might be able to reverse engineer the circuit, but no promises.

Along the same lines, I have a bolt on with the neck loose all around (I didn't route it). My plan was to glue a shim to the neck and sand to fit. Is it better to shim and re-route the body?

Thanks

Im working on a hybrid now using the Ghost system. They want an extra $70 for the piezo volume w/ mid-dark switch and the mini-switch to switch between piezo and mag. Seems a little much. Does anybody know what type switches they're using and how they are wired?

Thanks

Seymour Duncan has some basic stuff on their site. An electric guitar building or repair book will have some as well, but you can probably find most of it with an internet search.

I'm not familiar with the guitar, so I don't know if this switch would fit:

http://www.guitarelectronics.com/product/SWT36-17/3-Way-4-Pole-Guitar-Toggle-Switch-Chrome.html

I think this wiring should work, although haven't tested it. Color codes are Seymour Duncan.

I am considering replacing the guts of my Vantage Devil.

http://vantage-guitars.com/models/va-900.htm

It's a 2H configuration with 1 volume, 1 tone, coil split, phase switch, and a switched active preamp with it's own level control.

I want to replace the tone and preamp level controls with a 2 band switched active/passive EQ. Preamp gain will be a trim pot inside.

Any suggestions for available components or DIY circuits?

Thanks