DIYguitarguy

I like the shape of the Fender Torando and am planning to build something similar. I've never seen a "real" one, only photos. Because the bridge appears to be the TOM type, is the neck pocket or neck itself angled? Would it be feasable to swap the TOM with a hardtail?

Thanks. I may heed your advice and go with a water based application. I've used nitro, and sometimes it is problematic. I've got some left over and would like to use, rather than waste it.

Would your answer be a "yes" or a "no"? I know that certain types of plastic are being used, but the confusion for me stems from opinions I've read that state "never expose a nitro finish (long term) to plastic".

Could this be myth or fact?

Will the application of a plexiglass pickguard onto a guitar finished with nitrocellulose lacquar adversly affect that finish?

Here is a link to a pic of my first attempt at guitar building.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f337/DIY.../firstbuild.jpg

Everything, except the neck, was done from scratch. The plan was drawn as a "down-sized" body, 25.5" scale, 24 fret neck. Woods used on the body are quartersawn maple top over cherry. The neck is maple with a Pau Ferro fingerboard from USA Custom Guitars.

A lot was learned during this build and will probably do things a little differently next time.

Mine generally work out to 7 or 8 lbs. Ideal weight? That varies with the individual. You got guys like Johnny Winter who have resorted to the Erlewine Laser for a standup guitar. He still plays the Gibson Firebird for slide work but usually while sitting down. He looks like a strong wind could blow him over and I can't see him lasting very long playing an LP weighing 11 or 12 lbs.

http://www.birdsongguitars.com/weights.htm

Thanks for the input. I checked your site and found the details there to be very interesting. I was afraid my first project might be a bit "heavy", but it seems to be right in line with the random squire tele and strat weights you provided. Mine is built from cherry with a maple lam top. It weighs in at 8 lbs. 4 ozs., but is features a downsized body loosely based on the strat style.

Well, I just got through running my 8.5 lb. Les Paul and my 4.5 lb. Strat through their paces. Let's just say I warm up with the Strat, practice on the Les Paul, and cool off back on the Strat. Tone is tone and weight is weight. Both are subjective, and if you don't know what you're doing, you can still build the biggest POS out of 300 year old heavy Mahogany while someone like Suhr or Perry can build something out of Poplar that'll kick its ass anyday.

I think the only way to know if a piece of wood is good for a guitar instead of a casket is to learn how to tap and select quality tonewood like a pro. Other than that, it's build and wait for the paint to dry, then string it up and see if it's better than the Squier in your closet.

I totally agree that weight and tone are subjective things. I also agree that the builder must know how to "read" the qualities that may, or may not exist in a piece of wood. Some pieces will "ring" and others are just plain dead. I only threw this question out there to see what kind of opinions would come back. Thank you for yours.

Just a question to throw out. Wondering how you folks may respond. What do you consider to be the ideal weight for a solid body, 6 string electric guitar? I know, generally speaking, that "lighter is better", but for those of us who prefer a good quality hardwood with tone, sometimes a little extra weight will pay dividends in sound quality. But, how much is too much?

Ground wires are heavier in comparison to pickup, hot switch etc. wires.  The volume pot is the usual place to make the "star".  That is the point where the grounds of all your components like switch(es), pickup(s) and bridge converge.  All other pots, eg. tones and other pickup vol. pot (ala LP) are bridged together and then end up soldered to the star as well.  Then one wire to the output jack. 

The grounding of the bridge also grounds all its contacting metal points like tuners, strings and trem block.  A sure sign of a bridge that is not grounded is humming when not touching the strings.  Place your hand on the strings and the hum stops because you are providing a path to ground with your body.  Now if your guitar  got a big jolt of 'lectricity from some "other" place the current would go through you rather than that alternate path provided by a grounded bridge.

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Thanks Southpa,

If I'm understanding what you are telling me is that the ground wires from each part come together at a solder joint on the volume pot casing? Does this point also include the bridge ground, or is that a different connection?

I'm sorry about the "dumb" questions, but I learn best through visuals and am a little dense when it comes to learning otherwise.

Samba Pa Ti,

Thanks for your reply. This is a handbuilt guitar of my own design, loosely based on the Strat style with exceptions. It is a bit smaller than the strat, cherry body with quartersawn book-matched laminated maple top, has a 24 fret neck, 2 humbuckers, Callaham hardtail bridge, Switchcraft 250K & 500K pots and a 5-way megaswitch that are mounted from the rear through the top.

I know this is more than you asked for, but is the only way I can explain what "kind' of guitar it is.

I'm nearing the completion of my first build and have hit a roadblock. I'm a fairly competent woodworker, but an idiot when it comes to electronics. I can understand how most of the connections are made, except I can't visualize how the "grounds" are accomplished. Everything I have read tells me that all parts must be grounded "together", yet the drawings show several separate ground points for each part. I asked the guy who sold me some parts and his answer was: "everything gets soldered to the pots", which was too simplistic for my understanding. I need help. possibly a photo realistic visual aid.

This is the wiring scheme I intend to use: 2 HB + 1V +1T + 5-way double pole switch as:

1. Bridge HB

2. Bridge coil tap south

3. Neck + Bridge HB's

4. Neck coil tap north

5. Neck HB