edslides

I've played a few and liked them quite a bit. Worth every penny to be sure, since they cost about 80 bucks at the local shop. Electronics are not too hot, but a trip to guitarfetish can remedy that quick and cheap.

i went ahead and bought it. this thing weighs a ton. but i gotta say, this thing is pretty damned impressive.

the action was great, the neck straight and lo and behold, the front pickup tone pot is useless. think ill try guitar fetish, as i have a little scratch left from my guitar funds. the only flaw i found was the typical belt buckle scratches and some glue that had oozed out at the neck joint. if this guitar has any stamina, i may look into that tele copy mentioned earlier. this thing is detailed EXACTLY like a lp standard.

found a les paul copy in a pawn shop for 75 bucks, its a carbon copy, all bound, etc. anyone have any extended experience with these?

So it is a rubber tree then?

So the neck would be a rubberneck......sorry, it was there.

just went to guitar center and played a guitar made entirely of nato. surprise, surprise. it has avery LOUD tone, heavy on the mid range. gonna give it a shot on the build.

ive looked all over the net for a decent explanation. the only fairly acceptable answer i found was "lumberyard mahogany" the answer i was lookin for is "does it make a decent acoustic guitar?"does anyone know anything about the structural integrity, ie. is ita bad choice for building an acoustic body? i found what could be a good deal on some slabs, big enough to build a slab body electric or have it cut for sides/backs for a box. help! thanx...........................................................................barefoot ed

Edslides: go to Photobucket.com make an account (free) load your pics into it and it will give you codes that you put here that show up as pictures when posted

PS: Looks pretty good, reminds me on the punisher bass

much grass, nitefly. i think i got it

how did you get that picture onto the forum page? i tried and tried. also is that the only picture you see when you click on my link? there are 6 pics. someone please respond to this question so i can fix it if need be. i will put some more pics on. also if you click on an image it will enlarge itself. thanx for your time and help. keep slidin..........................................................................................................barefoot ed

howdy from texas. my name is barefoot ed and here for your consideration is my first guitar project. its a neckthru with mahogany-maple-mahogany laminate for the neck, mahogany "wings" and mahogany machine head ears. it will have a maple fretboard with mahogany fret markers in the form of roman numerals.the frets i have in mind are about the size of railroad rails. (planning ahead to minimize refrets) and made of stainless. ill be using a brass nut and a gold hipshot hard tail bridge. ( the washburn tremolo in the pics was a garbage can find, and will not be used. if anyone out there likes it, id be willing to trade for a hipshot hardtail.or something similar, but its gotta be a stringthru, because the body is so small.) the pickups will be paf copys, each with their own set of controls, consisting of dual concentric pots wired for tone/vol, and a 3 way toggle for each wired for singlecoil-off-bothcoil mode. a friend suggested dual output jacks for a stereo option.all criticism will be appreciated, thanx for your time. keep slidin'.......................

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f302/edslides/000_0526.jpg http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f302/edslides/000_0525.jpg http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f302/edslides/000_0622.jpg http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f302/edslides/000_0621.jpg http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f302/edslides/000_0620.jpg http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f302/edslides/000_0619.jpg

I'm making my first 3 piece laminated neck (well, two necks actually) and don't have enough maple for them. So my dad gave me these pieces of "mahogany":

http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/5708/dsc01346b6lu.jpg

http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/8296/dsc01347b1ts.jpg

http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/9967/dsc01345b5sw.jpg

... but I'm not sure whether this is really mahogany or what kind of mahogany it is. I'm concerned this is the phillipine "mahogany" that everyone seems to hate. The wood is dry and seems stable though. It has been sitting in my dad's garage for around 9 years. 6 years ago he got it planed to thickness and it's still totally straight and hasn't warped a bit. I'm thinking about using it as a center laminate with two pieces of maple so my questions are:

1. What kind of wood is this? Does it have anything to do with mahogany?

2. Assuming it's the infamous phillipine mahogany, would it be good enough to use on a laminated neck together with maple?

3. Am I just better off buying more maple and making a 3 piece maple neck?

Thanks.

howdy from texas. this is ed and im having wood issues myself. that wood you have there would make nice "wings" for a neckthru. if you are not gonna use it, maybe we could work out a trade? here is what im working on. it is a mahogany maple mahogany laminate http://photobucket.com/albums/f302/edslide...¤t=000_0526.jpg

I wouldn't worry about it being too hard, but I have learned the hard way not to use wood that has been out in the elements for a long time for any purpose where I dont want to see cracks. It may be plenty dry now, but it has probably undergone countless changes in temperature and humidity, which has done it no good.

I have a bunch of mahogany body blanks, which were surplus from Gibson back around 1970 or so. They sat in somebody's barn for a long time until I bought them from him for 5 bucks apiece, thinking I was getting an awesome deal. When I finally got to using them, they read 8% moisture content on my meter. The ends were cracked a little, but once I cut my body out, there was no sign of cracking whatsoever in it. When my shop gets below 30% humidity, though, the endgrain gets full of cracks, causing a stream of foul language to issue from my throat.

thanx. this might be a good time to consider using it to build my coffin case,an idea ive had for years.ive got a great pic of a coffin from the 1800s, red satin lining and all

my name is barefoot ed the other day i was given 5 3/4x 8x10 foot pieces of wood which was once a pallet used to ship a large machine from the phillipines to texas. it then sat in the texas weather for two or three years. it appears to be a VERY hard variety of mahogany with some interesting grain anomalies. it is unusually reddish with yellow streaks when wet, and is so dense that water doesnt seem to penetrate it. can this be cosidered to be sufficiently air dried to use as guitar wood? in all this time it has not bowed, warped or twisted. it dulls saw blades. its tap tone seems to sustain. could this be too hard? copy/paste this link http://photobucket.com/albums/f302/edslide...¤t=000_0526.jpg

Im going to make my own mahogany neck soon. How thin is too thin? Perhaps you could have reinforced it with some of those carbon fiber rods that they sell at Stew Mac. Ive got some flatsawn mahogany that I plan to use for my neck. I plan on using a nice sturdy truss rod and two carbon fiber rods on either side to reinforce it. I dunno, maybe Ill end up trying to get some quarter sawn...Ill just see how this works out first.

i had the same thinness problem because i let someone else cut out the neck profile who had better tools but thought the cut lines clearly marked in fine lined ink wrer a mere suggestion and cut it 5/32 too thin. i added a 3/16 thick piece of maple to regain the thickness, routed for the truss rod and put on a maple fret board [url=http://photobucket.com/albums/f302/edslides/?action=view¤t=000_0526 cut and pste this link to see. notice the mahogany-maple-mahogany laminate for the neck thru. this seemed to work so far. time will tell.

this is my first project. the neck thru is 3 ply mahogany-maple-mahogany. and the body sides are also mahogany. unfortunately the grain is not the same on the top and bottom.body halcves this has caused me to consider paint for the body. (?) im using schaller mini tuners, paf copy pickups, (each having its own set of controls), consisting of a pair of dual concentric pots wired for vol and tone, a 3 way mini toggle for each pickup, wired in a singlecoil-off-both coils configuration.and individual output jacks ill fret it with massive ibanez jumbos, for practical reasons, as they will last a lot longer in terms of resizeability. the bridge is a hipshot hard tail string thru

http://photobucket.com/albums/f302/edslide...nt=000_0526.jpg

ok, well then... lets vote! if you were going to make a double cut lp style axe, would you go ahead and just make it the same (with the offset) or be a little different and make the horns symmetrical?

just curious to see what the consensus of preferences would be.

try this: make a full scale outline drawing of a lp body. pencil in a cut out on the upper body half (where the toggle is, but stay within the confines of the pattern) to complement or contrast the lower cutout. did this once with a pawn shop copy that was *&^%$# up ,therefore cheap, and it came out pretty nice looking.

Hi... I would like to do a better job on the install of my floyd style locking nut - I left the cut shallow on purpose. I have a hard time visualizing how to set up a jig for a smallish Ryobi router I can use though. I thought I saw a picture tutorial someplace and gah, now I can't find it. Does anyone know of one.

thanks,

Kiira

kiira, this is barefoot ed again.i am a machinist by trade so if you can tell me what you are wanting to do exactly, im sure i could help. i will post or email pics of the bridge as well as my project soon....slide on ....................................................................................barefoot

Well... I worked on this for 4 hours tonight - I filed the floyd locknut until it looked like it would work, then I cut the wide slot for it at the former first fret position using a mini router freehand, a hacksaw and a file. OMG It worked! I installed the nut and the E string rubbed the back of the fretboard as expected so I filed a slope from the back of the nut to the beginning of the peghead and it all works great now.

Tuning it is fine because the string rests on the front slot of the floyd... then I just lock it and it doesn't change pitch.

The Floyd nut is way ugly for sure... I just had a ugly gold one around and I think a black one would be least obtrusive. The whole neck/peghead thing is not really as ugly as I thought it might be either..not really that weird. yay. I'll post pictures when the whole guitar is doneThe neck is a maple/ebony MM with big jumbo frets and really feels pretty nice though I haven't really played it yet. $75 VS $200 to Warmoth. I 'm happy.

thanks for the mathematical underpinnings validating my intuition to S. Dodding too.

Kiira

kiira, my name is barefoot ed ( i gave the advice about the razor blade) have i got the bridge for you. it is a washburn tremolo with fine tuners individual intonation, adj. height and requires no routing. if you WILL use this, you can have it. FREE. if any future mods or changes become necessary, the most work you will have to do is unscrew 4 screws. move the bridge and screw it back down.e mail me if you are interested............edslides13@yahoo.com. hope to see your mutation work out.i love it when the naysayers are made to eat humble pie! i have a project goin on myself. i show you mine if you.............keep slidin

You have to lathe them. I don't see how it could be done any other way.

quite right . a vise, a drill motor and a steady hand (holding a file or sand paper) will do in a pinch if you have no lathe. consider the golden rule. if you dont have the right tool,improvise. a motor is a motor, a vise ise is a vise. you do the math.......................................................................keep slidin,.ed

Hi I have to remove the top fret of a ebony fretboard and cannot afford to spend $25 at the moment for a fret remover - is there a way to get just one fret out without one? A locking nut is going in... maybe I could carefully dremel out the back of the fret to the tang depth? or something?

Kiira

I'm not sure I'm understand why a fret has to come out to put in a locking nut? I can understand taking out a regular nut and replacing it with routing and drilling for the locking nut, but why a fret..as someone else asked, what sort of guitar is this?

i think i get your vision. here are two suggestions. first. if you are not gonna be happy with a very cobbled up lookimg guitar, your only alternative is to relplace the fret board with a new one.sslotted to a 24" scale length if you go this route, remember, you will HAVE to move your bridge closer to the nut,(the distance from the nut to the twelfth fret should for all practical purposes, be the same distance as the twelfth fret to the bridge saddle, before factoring in the individual strings intonation, which will vary if you use a set of strings that are not of the same guage as those on the guitar when the intonation was initially set ) option two is to go balls to the wall with the frankengibson concept. (i noticed a clue to its pedigree) it will not tune correctly. but if you tune down a half stepand pretend ypu are using a first fret capo you might be able to fake it with modified finger positions. that will leave plenty of space between the zero fret and first fret position on the neck to put your locking nut. let us know what you do. i love experiments that involve guitar dna manipulation. ..................................................................keep slidin

Hi I have to remove the top fret of a ebony fretboard and cannot afford to spend $25 at the moment for a fret remover - is there a way to get just one fret out without one? A locking nut is going in... maybe I could carefully dremel out the back of the fret to the tang depth? or something?

Kiira

this is the way i did it if i understand your problem. just take a razor blade and slowly,carefully insert it at the end of the fret (between the fret and the fingerboard) and gently pry it up, moving the blade towards the other end of the fret. ebony is hard and kinda brittle.so dont get ahead of yourself or you WILL chip your fretboard where the tang anchors come out of the slot. you did not mention what kind of guitar you are repairing. and i am not sure what you mean by "top fret" nut end or bridge end? if i can be of any more assistance, email barefoot ed at edslides13@yahoo.com. good luck

will trade washburn tremolo bridge. height adj. intonation adj, fine tuners. right or left handed nice would like a hip shot hardtail, will consider tune o matic (dont need stopbar. email ed at edslides13@yahoo.com

I'm no expert, but I believe you're nearing Ibanez Wizard territory.

Assuming a .25" fretboard + .63" neck wood (if it's exactly 5/8") = .880"

Wizard = .735" at the 1st fret, .810" at the 12th fret

Warmoth Standard Thin = .800" at the 1st fret, .850" at the 12th fret

A Stewmac Hot Rod takes a 7/16" (.440") deep channel.

Way too thin for me, but then I've got pretty big mitts

But wait and see what somebody who's actually built one of these says 

Mike

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thanx mike! i should maybe point out that that was NOT my intended dimension. it was marked at 3/4". and he went too deep! would a 1/8"maple spacer on top of my mahogany neck (between the neck and fretboard) be a bad idea?

i have a washburn trem bridge w/ fine tuners that requires no routing. it is fully self contained and the entire assembly mounts on top of the guitar body w/ 4 screws it can be mounted right or left handed and is adjustable for string height and intonation and can be shimmed to accomodate practically any string width.the tremolo can be locked out if needed. a truly universal trem bridge. i hate it because i play with a slide and rarely need to dive bomb something. plus, it looks like **** on my project. the piece itself is genius. if anyone is interested, i would gladly trade it for a tune o matic. i dont need the stopbar because i am going with a string thru body configuration. if the guitar gods upstairs are happy with the way this freshman effort is progressing then i would dare dream that i might even be blessed with a stewmac "hipshot hardtail", part number 3550. thank you for your consideration and keep slidin..............................................barefoot ed

how thin is too thin? i am hoping i dont have to trash this project, as it is my first. i will post pics when ifigure out how. i foolishly allowed someone to cut the neck from the blank because he had more approp[riate tools and after getting it back it cleaned up to just under 5/8". now i am having anxiety attacks over slotting the neck for the truss rod. i am trying to do my homework, but some case- specific problems are just too unique to have readily avalable answers. any and all help will be greatly appreciated.....................thanx and keep slidin. barefoot ed

If you do a search you will get all the information on the truss rod in here! For the actual pups dimension, go here and use this pic as a reference.  You don't need to be exact as long as you stay in the pup ring.  The first few guitars I did  Imade all the templates, and it wasn't until last summer that I decided to buy the Stew template.  I didn't needed it, bet wanted to have it!

Also on that site, there is a lot of information on the truss rod... Do your research, we will help you in all we can but don't expect to be hand feed.

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my problem is this. i have no parts (pups or pup rings) to compare to.i will be ordering soon, but wnted to have the guitar ready for pup installation. also, as for the truss rod, my problem is this: i stupidly allowed someone to cut out the neck from the blank, and as a result, it wound up being an eighth of an inch too thin. (it cleaned up to just under five eighths of an inch). the gibson style truss rod is a single 3/16 rod with anchors at each end but being a virgin luthier wannabe, i dont know how deep the truss rod channel should be. i vaguely understand its intended function, as far as pushing and pulling the nut end of the neck up and down but i dont want to make the cut based on my opinion of "what should be."once more, thanx for your time and assistance.........................keep slidin'

If you do a search you will get all the information on the truss rod in here! For the actual pups dimension, go here and use this pic as a reference.  You don't need to be exact as long as you stay in the pup ring.  The first few guitars I did  Imade all the templates, and it wasn't until last summer that I decided to buy the Stew template.  I didn't needed it, bet wanted to have it!

Also on that site, there is a lot of information on the truss rod... Do your research, we will help you in all we can but don't expect to be hand feed.

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please help. i am stuck out in the country for a while, (long enough to have gotten so bored i decided to build my first guitar) and i am stuck. i need dimensions for the pickup cavities. i will be installing twin coil pickups also i would like to discuss truss rods with someone who actually knows about them. i will be available tomorrow to "chat" as i must give up possesion of the computer now. its like the problem the waltons must have with the bathroom. thanx in advance for any help................................................................keep slidin' , barefoot ed