Luckyvision

Thanks, that's what i needed, a little hand holding. i'll be back in a month or longer with prelim results. sooner if i have questions or screw it up, lol

--Lucky

Hmm, yep, you did say that.. i have to pay more attention to the details...ok,

follow the sanding with grain filler? are they all compatable with lacqer?

S.N.A.F.U.!!!

I attempted to sand down the layer of black lacquer & it just all went to sh*t...

--first i learned new lacquer is soft, so that when you sand it you get spots of lacquer build up that just...suck...

--second i learned that a palm sander just makes it worse

--SO.. I now have a body with lacquer bumps all over it, some bareish wood patches, damage to the filler around the plate i made to fill the pickup cavity.. if i had another choice i'd chuck this thing onto the railroad tracks, but i'm not giving up...

so how do i fix this child from hell?? i was thinking of taking a rag & some lacquer thinner & trying to rub down the spots, then lighting..uh, i mean, rub down the whole thing.

then what? all i want is to get it flat..

alright, I haven't got any clearcoat on there yet, only one 'base' coat of black sprayed on today..

I did notice that where i stripped off the original coatings, i removed all the clearcoat & left the basecoat of black on the sides (the top & bottom were sanded down to the wood) and the sides have a nice smooth surface...

being tomorrow is saturday, i REALLY appreciate the quick responses too!

--Lucky

There are certain properties associated with a good sealer including fast dry. Too late for that now kinda, but that's okay.

With grain filler and sanding the parts you patched will vanish. Remember, if you see the patched areas in the paint coat, you'll see it under the clear too.

Ok, so pardon the ignorant questions:

--is sealer the same as grain filler?

--to apply the grain filler, how far down do i sand my base coat of lacqer? completely back to bare wood or just enough to eliminate the shiny?

so now my procedure should be: sand (dull?), grain filler, color coat(s), clearcoat.

correct?

--Lucky

I'm refinishing a Bass that needed to have a pickup cavity filled, so i cannot stain it (the repair would show)

I sanded the whole thing down to a 320 grit level & gave it a first lacquer coat & all the grain of the wood is showing (where the wood filler was used it's nice & smooth)

I was told that sealing wasn't needed because the first coat of lacquer would act as a sealer, & it should be sanded then repainted & then gloss coated. I am hoping this will be perfectly smooth when i'm done...

I was surprised at how obvious the grain is after the first coat, so my Question(s):

--Will the first coat really act as a sealer & sanding it down smooth it out?

--what final grit should i end up with to get it smooth as possable?

--i had planned to basecoat/ sand/top coat(s)/ clearcoat/buff, is this the reccomended progression?

Now don't get mad at me: the paint is rattlecan rust-oleum 'specialty' high lustre black lacquer (& clear gloss)

I have no access to a paint gun, compresser, etc & no way to even beg someone to borrow or do it for me, & very little money for this project either, but i have time, patience & the desire to do the best job possable with what i have to work with.

Thanks, --Lucky

I'm trying to avoid that..

what i've done is taken a 1/4" piece of maple, made a plate, but then sanded down 1/4" around the insde of the cavity (a little less actually) when the pickups get here, i'll trace around them to get the j-bass cut out. then glue the plate down, sand it level & fill the edges. this means i'll be painting it, so i guess i'll just go with a basic black body with white pickguad, unless anyone else has better suggestions for a paint scheme.

--Lucky

I was given a beat up asian fender j-bass knock-off. as i have to watch the cash & can't a fford a working bass right now, i decided i'd fix this one up.

the pick-ups in it were actually rusty & corroded, the wiring was all badly soldered & it was just a mess. i've stripped it down & sanded the body.

here is the problem: i'm going to install some slightly used Squire pick-ups (got a pair for $25) but sometime in the past someone has routed out the bridge pick-up for a humbucker.

(btw, here is a pic as it looked when i got it, can anyone id the pickups or even the manufacturer? it has no i.d. except 2 bits of japaneese writing http://www.xz550.com/art_files/VisionBass.jpg )

so i need to fill the bridge hole so the squire pick-up fits cleanly. i was thinking to either veneer a new maple top, (but would that raise the bridge up enough to make it unajustable?)

-or-

fit the bridge hole with a maple "cover" (rout down the thickness of the new maple cover, glue it in & fill the seam around it, leaving the cavity for the pick-up)

the frets are low, but that is a project for later.

i've already replaced the broken plastic nut with a bone one.

if i veneer will i have action problems? (but it'll look cleaner, & i could stain & sunburst)

or if i fill, then i'll HAVE to paint it...

this is my first stringed instument, it's just a learner, but i'd like it to look decent (i'll settle for ppl not laughing.. )

and play acceptably. i'll get a fine Bass when i can afford it.

i've been long winded, but thanks!

--Lucky