9956

Finished (re)veneering, Im happy with the veneer now, its completely flat and solid round the edges. I have smoothed all the edges, it is now completely on and fitted to the basswood. Next I need to work out how to get a nice flame on maple.....sanding back seems to lose me the figure.... http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f119/995...neercloseup.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f119/9956/veneered1.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f119/9956/veneered3.jpg

Thicker cap is not an option, I reveneered and its perfect. REALLY REALLY need some help/info from people living in the UK preferably how you make the flame extreme. The natural veneer has a BEAUTIFUL flame at the moment, and its a PERFECT job. I cannot mess the staining and finishing up, i will go insane. Im open to suggestions, based on bright red flaming. I have black and red water based dyes, can buy others if necessary. I know i need to practice on scrap till its perfect.

Post those amazing pictures here guys, I will start with my personal favourite. Please feel free to post more than one, lets make this a proper feast of maple porn Quilted maple, looks like flame.

All in the above really, a used cheapish singlecoil such as a tex mex/ lace sensor (any colour) shipped to the UK.

All ibanez control cavity covers, interested in, any condition, shipped to the UK with whatever method you like. PM or post offers. Likely to go for the first offer.

Im re veneering then, this project WILL be perfect. Veneer is hella cheap for what it looks like anyway, and I have the cash. One thing im really having trouble finding is naptha in the UK. Another thing is ideas on how to make the flame really stand out. When the veneer is natural and out the packet i have a beautiful flame, but after any sanding, it appears lost. I got far better results on my headstock, where i just stained and laquered, than my body where i stained, sanded back with 400 and restained. I lost a considerable amount of figure....even after i laquered. Ah well irrelevant now, i will need to find out before i stain again...now onto some major sanding

Bad explanation sorry, the flame stripes are the horizontal black lines. Im positive the surface is ever so slightly uneven, and the sanding back has thus lightened some areas more than others as they are higher. Camera way too **** to show that, will try and borrow dads if he visits.

I have veneered and stained my wood, however the veneer rippled slightly, so that when i stained i obtained this pattern would it be possible via repeated sanding to even this out? bearing in mind i need to be extremely careful of the veneer, which may have to be redone anyway. Could i sand flat and then restain? May just redo it anyway in my quest for perfection, meh.

What sort of wires should i be buying/looking at to wire up a guitar? The only thing on ebay i could find was http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BEST-Shielded-Wire-F...1QQcmdZViewItem which seems expensive, especially as i remember reading shielded internal wire does little. There must be a trade name of the sort of wire to get, which i havent picked up on. In addition if someone could suggest a reputable supplier in the UK i would be grateful. Thanks

I stained my maple veneer the shade of red i had perfectly mixed up, then sanded back after it had dried and restained. I have lost a noticeably amount of the figure/flame...the tutorial i was following says it should enhance the flame! http://www.stewmac.com/tradesecrets/bridge...e_guitar02.html Is this recoverable in any way? I have a very lightly figured maple top at the moment, if someone could tell me how to resuscitate the flame i would love it. If not then tough luck i guess....

I have bought a pot of red water soluble dye, and I have applied and trimmed my veneer. Could someone explain to me exactly, incluidng details of when/how much to sand and when/how much to laquer etc how to achieve this look: http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f119/995...zifneckthru.jpg There doesnt seeeem to be a 2 colour stain there, just a 3D effect only with red. I have dyed some scrap veneer red and it does look a bit 3d, but the veneer is still a little rough. Should i sand smooth before staining and then stain and then laquer and polish? Or stain, sand smooth (which removes some stain) restain and laquer and polish? Please help, this is basic but i couldnt find a good tutorial on it PIC TOO BIG!!!

Just took the guitar into the shop at school and cut a slot for the switch with the milling machine. Very tidy, far better than any dremel job.

Hey I am interested in evo/paf/airzone types of pickups, 4 conductor neck position. Any lying around, PM me your offer shipped to the UK Cheers for looking

You have a PM for the airzone

Yeah it seems kinda simple, I did the whole protecting the neck in about 5 minutes....masking/covering the cavities seems a doss....(famous last words)

MEGA QUERY: Could anyone help me locate some bright red wood dye in the UK. Try as I have I cannot find it. Would prefer alcohol soluble but if you can find a water soluble one i would love it. Have trawled homebase, a carpenters, a small hardware shop, ebay, the internet. About to explode at UPS since they want to charge $60 to ship $8 of dye to the UK (from woodburst.com) Woe is me

A lot of the "order" of this project is to do with "oh I now have money for x thing" "oh x thing is finally delivered" and so on. This is true, but seeing as I plan to tape the cavities up when laquering/painting anyway, I will not be spraying a whole coat onto it thus blocking connectivity. The best grounding method is to solder all the wires marked "to ground" together in one blob and then run a wire to the neutral lug of the jack? That is what i have understood by star grounding

I will be following that suggestion, it seems the correct way. Would I cut a slot for the switch and drill holes before or after veneering? If i do it before, i can cut the veneer out with a knife, wheras after requires drilling the veneer. Headstock sanded http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f119/9956/DSC_0435.jpg Control and pickup cavities shielded http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f119/9956/DSC_0436.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f119/9956/DSC_0439.jpg

...For a 5 way switch. Do I just dremel it to the max? There must be info on this somewhere, I just havent found it...

I came up with a "creative" solution as well.....photocopying the front after drawing an outline...lol it will make some kinda template. And no you are completely right, i need to do another filler cycle, sand, sanding seal and prime. Just showing and update

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f119/995...moothinsert.jpg Current state of the front, I am thinking it is time to sand and paint the back and sides. Ordered some primer spray, then will be sprayed in a car shop. Then veneering time... I want to do it this way round so absolutely no red paint can flicker onto the veneer, it would ruin the look. I will just have to be really gentle with the painted final object when im doing and staining the veneer + drilling holes for pots. I have decided to screw the single coil at this point in time, I am doing a master volume and a neck tone pot for the 2 humbuckers. http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f119/9956/backtaped.jpg There is the back at the moment, just sanded and cavities covered. My current concern is how to make a cavity cover for the back hole, suggestions would be awesome. I am thinking cut a piece of plastic/wood to size, and somehow sink the edges of the hole (no idea how though)

I wont bother with the SA if its THAT MUCH of a hassle then dude, but I already have the X2n + neck and middle stock pups of rg550. I may well just go for a standard 2 humbucker setup, could I be directed to a diagram of master volume and tone pot for neck only? I kinda like treble on 10 on my bridge....alternatively if anyone could suggest a cheap single coil stratty sound (never ever ever had a single coil in guitar, kinda want to see the other side of the story, and I heard the stock S1 sucks)

I have the humbuckers only at the moment, have yet to order the emgSA and the 5 way switch (I am told i may need a special switch...) Anyway onto the challenge I want to be able to select: Just neck, just middle, just bridge, bridge and neck together (for playing in front of my computer) I am not bothered about the blending of the SC with the HB, it seems pointless and difficult. I want a volume for both humbeckers (as in one pot controls both) a tone control for neck and middle. I would be eternally grateful if someone could either draw a simple diagram or point me in the right direction. Many thanks

Theres a view of the front with the piece of wood fitted and a load of chip filler slapped in, will look MUCH better when I have sanded flush obviously. I havent used any glue to hold the piece in as of yet, it is SECURELY wedged though, as in you would have to hammer for a sustained period to even budge it. And no its not MDF, I have no idea what it is, but it was light and inflexible and hard. http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f119/995...sertcloseup.jpg There is a crappy closeup of the insert. I would say I have sanded it down to about 1/2 a mm above the level of the wood before I called it a day and did the filler. http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f119/9956/backhole.jpg And here is where I drilled out the back. I now need obviously to (preferably) purchse the back covers for the cavity, to cover the hole. Anyone know of anywhere I could get this? I could always make my own out of a thin piece of wood, and have it sprayed along with the body....that kinda appeals

Drilled through the cavity today, cut a piece of wood to size, wedged it in. Filled the cracks with woodfiller, after sanding the back and sides to the wood. Inside of horns is almost done, takes ages though and so inefficient. Pics soon Tired as a mother