9956

1)

severe tuning problems, when i pull the whammy bar up, every string tunes up about a whole half step, and vice versa when i pull the bar down,

2)

even when i just do a full bend on a string the bridge will move and detune the guitar, im wondering what would be the origin of this problem?

1) This is what the floyd rose is SUPPOSED to do. None of the excellent replies mentioned so far that half of your extreme problem is the fact that it works as it should

2) This will always be apparent in floating bridge systems without a tremol-no or similar device

I am correct on this guys right? Did it take that long?

OH

Then i read the rest of the posts. So hang on, you DONT want the strings to move up and down in pitch, but you do want to....

and with the lump of wood ill pass on that because i actually want to use the floyd rose system and do sum cool satriani moves with it

Well we all want the impossible. Windup? If not then it shows a depressing lack of knowledge by repliers.

Licensed floyds are ****, but you are not describing common symptoms of knife edge failure, and thus do not need to spend loads of money

no one at all!? This is an awesome amp, and would be a steal for a UK person

bbbbump

I have a 50W Mesa Rect-O-Verb combo for sale, as I am off to a London university in September, and am switching to a....slightly less expensive solution as student debts approach

This amp is LITERALLY my pride and joy, I have taken exquisite care of it ever since I purchased it in May as a birthday present. I have several more pictures of the amp other than the one at the bottom of the advert, and these will help you see the excellent condition of it. These are avaiable on request, I will email you as many high res photos as you like

If your looking into buying one of these, you will already be aware of the legendary distortion channels, however I doubt that the clean channel will have been given the praise it should. I play a lot of RHCP/SRV/bluesy stuff on this, and it can go from clean clean clean to "Just breaking up when you dig in" on the clean channel, and "Slight overdrive" to "AC/DC" on the pushed mode.

The vintage and modern channels are both superb, with different voicings. I spend a lot of my time on the modern channel, because hey....its a recto, it would be a sin not to. My favourite sweeping tone however is on the vintage channel with the gain fairly high, it just sounds more......liquidy. Think Paul Gilbert on technical difficulties solo

The amp obviously comes with the original good condition mesa 3 button footswitch.

I am looking for offers above £800 for the amp. Pm me your thoughts.

I also have an 8ohm hotplate for sale, these hold value fairly well so I think £180 with or without the amp is a fair price.

Unless you are talking about a fanned fret system, in which each string has its own slightly different scale and the frets are slanted and fanned so that notes are still correct, then there is no way to make a compound scale fretboard. I just cant see it, how could the scale of a string change as the fretboard goes up?

bumpy

Finished in some greeny/blue paint, would the only option be to find as near a match as possible, mask off all but the affected area,scuff it, spray and then clear in a poly/acrylic (latter available much more readily) and leave to cure? Not too concerned about a really glossy finish, it is the back after all....but that bare wood euw.

£70ish

In hampton, SW london

I am looking for a mesa 1x12 combo. The nomad series or the rect-o-verb are what I have in mind, but if you have any mesa 1x12 combos you are willing to sell/trade then reply please.

I have the following to trade,

Bad Horsie 2 Wah Pedal

EHX Small Clone Chorus

Clean and good condition strat copy HSS

Metal Zone Pedal

Project guitar primed body

Obviously take your pick of what you want as trade (if anything) and we can discuss a price.

Thanks for looking!

Such nice work, such a great result.

What about the tutorial in the forum on how to fold a maple top? Using a steam iron etc. If i can find a piece of maple nice and thick enough i will just have the machine cut it with a couple mm extra on top, so i can hand sand it down...

Not worthy of one single reply?

My next project is to be one of the above. I have a fully capable of making a guitar cnc machine at school, which i can use up until june so i need to get cracking. I have full plans of a jem (off jemsite.com) in 3ds and dxf formats. Any idea how to program this into the machine at school, what parameters i need to use etc.

Project one, mahogany/maple RG

Standard RG shape, im thinking of using my jem template with the monkey grip filled in to be honest, as i cannot find a really good plan of an RG. I would cut the body exactly [the thickness of maple top] thinner than specified, and then fold and glue the maple on, then use a flush bit router or indeed the machine again to cut the maple to size. Pickup holes and the like could then be added either by router or machine, then proceed to painting dyeing etc etc. Swineshead would be the pickup source here and most likely in the JEM, im thinking Xbucker/runaway.

Project two, mirror Jem

Copying duff beer kid, (SO much kudos) with the mirror acrylic idea, i would cut out the jem body in alder, 3mm thinner than on the spec sheet then bend a sheet of mirror acrylic to size and glue on. All the excess could then be trimmed and the routing redone (machine). I

I am planning on buying an AANJ neck for both these projects, are JEM necks the same as normal wizard/wizard 2 neck pockets? Would i need to adjust any dimensions at all? I actually havent been able to find a satisfactory plan for the neck pocket, i may just use the dimensions of the AANJ neck i have in my posession at the moment....

Rip me to shreds guys, its the way my project will evolve....

Sweet, can be deeeleted/closed as mods wish now

Is that that correct method of doing it?

On a different note, I have screws that fit the pickups but dont thread into the pickup rings....one set is too thin and one too big. How much does this matter, im thinking that even if the hole doesnt have a thread for the screws then the tension of the spring pushing will hold the screw down in place...

bumpy

Sealed my red stained veneer, and there were one or two bubbles (veneer from body)

So as in the tutorial and previously i have done, i ironed them down through a piece of foil.

SOME F***ING COLOURED WOOD CAME OFF.

I am RAGING at this, now there are some nickel sized patches with less stain on them, I restained them, but the texture of the wood is now different. Any ideas what the F**K i need to do?

Knew i should have just sprayed clear

So a lot of weakish coats of red would give me more of a 3d effect than one really strong coat?

I will buy some buffing compounds, probably use the wheel at school. I have grades 800, 1000, 1200, 1500 and 2000, i know i need to move through progressively. Mmmm shiny gloss finish will be mine.

Thanks guys for not slating me. I initially honestly thought the best way would be to leave the holes inbetween the pickup slots, as i didnt want to leave veneer over empty space.

I dont really like pickguards, but many thanks for the suggestions

I have got 2 humbucker rings already, will see how it looks then, i may make my own single coil ring with the milling machine at school.

Another veneer is not happening, i am far too proud of the edges on this one.

For finishing advice, this is hard/not wafer thin veneer, it took me a long time to sand through a piece of scrap mounted on mdf. (I literally deliberately sanded through to test it out)

I found when i sand it at all i lose 3d figure, so im honestly thinking just red dye then clearcoat might be the best option i have. The black/sand back/red idea seems wicked in theory, but no matter if i only sand back a bit, the 3d effect is robbed from me!

Im planning to spray on acrylic gloss laquer and sand to 2000, im assuming this will enhance the figure to the point where it pretty much looks how it does when laquer is still wet. If i did the black/sand back/red thing, would the shiny gloss help to restore the 3d effect??

You need to email them and ask for the flame maple veneer, its not on the system yet. They will sort you out to the MAX, fear not.

Yeah marquetry.co.uk is GREAT. Jim emails back really quick and informatively. If your guitar isnt arched at all i would severely reccomend buying 1 sq m of their thermoplastic glue sheets, thats what i used on the flat half of the guitar. REALLY good stuff, just clut veneer roughly to size and iron on through paper. Really strong when cold, but can easily be detached by reheating, unlike glues. If its your first time veneering then order enough veneer to cover 2 guitars (5sq foot should do it), a scalpel and 10 blades, and 1 sq meter of glue sheet. minimum order is £10 so that should sort you for one or two projects.

Chuck Norris learned to shred by roundhouse kicking steve vai in the head and downloading the data with his leg.

In the US I have heard amazing stuff about thewoodwell.com

In the uk i get it from marquetry.co.uk