Racer X

3) What's the best thing to use in order to remove bridge posts from the body?

I use a stack of washers and a bolt that matches the threads of the inserts. comes out smoothely, with very little effort.

id imagine that its angled since i dont see any string retainers

a good angle is 13 degrees and im pretty sure that thats an industry standard

TYM makes great Mosrite replicas. I've talked to him once of twice. Nice guy. I'm gonna go out on a limb and predict you are making a Johnny Ramone MKII clone? I'm a Ramones fan and have been jonesing for one, since the early 80s. I promised I'd build one, but never found the time. I still have a Green Meanie replica, in pieces, in the basement, to get back to.

I typically go the cyanoacrylate glue (super glue) method, and speed it up a little, by using a spray accelerator. Contrary to the above opinion, I've never had a problem, down the line, of a repair like this NOT staying blended in.

Do a search for overarm router, as well. Many people refer to them as that.

Made one from Stainless, at work. NOT gonna fall apart! Still gotta get the inserts, though.

Finish before frets looks nicer. Some big makers have done it that way, such as Ibanez.

The worst part about it is rounding the fret ends without screwing up the finish. Of course you are using a file with safe edges, but it's still a hard piece of metal that can make marks.

Now, if you want to use super-glue on the frets, that can cause quite a mess on a pre-finished board. Even wicking the CA from the ends of the slot is not always safe. Sometimes it creeps up onto the fret-board. I developed a technique that prevents that. Look for it on my fretting DVD which will never come to be. Haha.

Yeah, but don't you run the risk of dealing with dealing with an uneven freboard if you wait to re-fret AFTER finishing? Or, do you go back and flatten the finish with a radius black, prior to fretting?

I'd say that looks stained. Maybe this might help you:

http://reranch.com/gibson_sunburst.htm

Like alex said, just let it overhang. I've modded several Strat-type guitars like this, and have had zero problems.

I've modded a few guitars for Floyds, and used both types of mounting. I actually found it easier to install with the top-mount method, than the rear-mount, through bolts, cause getting the recesses for the heads of the bolts gave me some grief. I usually use my Dremel, in a drill press rig and a #115 shaping bit to make the recesses. On one occasion, I suffered a bit of tear-out in one of the recesses.

Just finished the entire read. Good job. I really like how you hung in there, and came up with some nice ways of how to recover from the errors. All that hard work AND it has a set of EMGs? Your buddy better love the nice job you did and be kissing your butt, cause you did a great job polishing a turd.

hehe

Yeah, I'd thin out the heel. That way, you don't mod your body past typical specs, and run the risk of other problems, if you need to swap necks, down the line. In other words, if the prob is the neck, mod the neck.

There ARE these:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Disp...temnumber=38496

Update: Picked up two pair of these, at the local Harbor Freight store, the other day: The large set I provided the link for, and a smaller pair. Already flush-ground the small pair. Still gotta do the larger pair. For the amount of fretwork I plan to do, I think they will suit me just fine, and if they go dull and unusable, or break in some way, I can pick up another pair in 20 minutes, and be back in the game.

I kinda like that idea, actually. There are times when you can't get all the work under my press, to drill where you need to drill. This brings the drill to the project. I may just have to get one for just such cases.

I always use variable grits of sandpaper. The finer grits are thinner, and really help me get where I need to be.

Easy. Find a bolt that matches the thread of the inserts, and a stack of washers whos holes are BIGGER than the inserts, plus one washer that is SMALLER. Stack all the washers over the insert, screw in the bolt, and tighten it. The resistance against the stack of washers will pull the inserts out, safely, and easily. I've done this tons of time, and always works.

I once mentioned this at another forum, and someone who claims to be a luthier chastised me for over-complicating things. he then went on to say HE uses a claw hammer. Yikes! Needless to say, I won't be sending any of MY guitars to HIM for work!

the Fender Mary Kaye Strat was the first thing I thought of. Beautiful guitar. Actually made me think about doing one of mine in that finish. Glad to hear Re-ranch has that, available.

I made up steel sanding bobbins to go in the drill press. I have two 2" with different grits and a 1" to get into tight curves. I glue on the paper with contact adhesive and when it needs replacing I soak it for a while in mineral turpintine and it comes right off easily and cleanly.

They work great for edge sanding around the horn areas. For the open edges I have my belt sander mounted on its side to sand those areas. For the faces this time, I took my bodies to a cabinet maker and he put them thru his thickness sanders and for $5-00 each it saved a lot of work and made a perfect job.

Man, for $5 each, that's a really good idea. I'll have to locate a local cab maker, and remember that, for next time. Thanks.

I sometimes use sanding sponges around the edges and contours. Helps me get into the nooks and whatnot. On my first refin, the body I had bought, online, the edges were all out of whack from the previous owner. I ended up building them back up, with a good poly filler, and taking my time, ever so gently with sanding sponges, mostly, I got them re-contoured, properly. Looking at it, now, you'd never know.

For the front and rear faces, I usually adhere sandpaper with double-back tape, to a sheet of plate glass that I have (used to be a glass chess board), and, instead fo drawing the sandpaper across the body, using a handle mounted in the neck pocket, I draw the body across the sandpaper. Worked like a charm.

I use sandpaper and dowels for the flat faces inside the horn areas. Time consuming, but effective.

I use dish soap mixed in warm water. I use the water sparingly and keep a towel handy to wipe off the excess.

peace,

russ

Exactly what I do, too. Haven't had a problem yet............but now that I've cursed myself!.....

I haven't tried it yet, but I saw someone use one of these. The suspended that body inside and stuck just their arm and spray gun in through the flap, which was mostly closed. Then zipped it up between coats. Might work pretty well.

http://www.target.com/gp/detail.html/ref=b...asin=B000KHWGI2

Hehe. That's cool. So crazy, but I guess it would work. And for $20, if it gets messed up, who cares. Pitch it and buy another. I just may have to buy one, and try it.

I know some people wet the floor down to prevent dust from getting kicked around.

CMA

I was just gonna suggest that. The body shop where I deal with on occasion does that, to help alleviate dust problems.

I have always had luck using Duplicolor Engine Enamel Clear, when others you give me nothing but grief.

k instead of clear coating a million times, i got this stuff that basicly gives you the exact finish in one coat, the reason being that one coat of this mixture is equal to 55 coats of varnish? and the finished result isnt very thick and it feels the same as if i put a laquer or clear coat on and sanded, it gives it an amazing shine as well. any reasons why this may not work? cause im positive it should

Well, since it is an epoxy coating, it may yellow, as it's exposed to sunlight.

Yup, that's why I said I dropped it like a hot potato. I will NEVER put that stuff on one of my guitars again. I've had better luck with the Duplicolor Engine Enamels, to be honest. They worked when lots of others wouldn't.

It would have to change with the type of bridge you are using, as well. Not all bridges are gonna have the distances from the mounting points to the saddle breaking points, the same.