Racer X

....yeah, I'm suprised it's not oozing out of that hole!

In the past 26 years, I've owned just about evey guitar, and every trem system. Alot of them were Charvels, with Kahler trem systems. I personally like them. There are naysyers, that will blindly spew out "Screw Kahlers! Get a Floyd!". Don't listen to them. You've played one, and apparently liked it. A properly maintained Kahler will stay in tune, wonderfully.

That said, I love Floyds, as well. However, most trem'd guitars I've owned that have had tuning issues have been floyd guitars. My two Kramers were the worst. If you go Floyd, stick with an OFR, or even an Ibanez Edge (IMHO, the best trem system, ever.).

With Floyds, you may have issues with blade edges. With Kahlers, you may have stuck rollers. Each have plenty of pull-up, provided the Floyd is routed. No warbles possible, and the Kahlers. And, actually, Kahlers seem to be making a comeback, currently. Each has their quirks.

I remember that being the same stuff Dan Erlewine reccommends, in his repair book.

...now if only I had great paintgun skills, like you!

Yes, that's exactly what I'm talking about. That is one of the seams. You can tell, easily, cause it's a totally different pattern on the other side of that line. Plus the scales are going off, in another direction. There is another seam, just under the strap knob. Notice, again, that the scales change direction, right at the strap knob. So, correction. This would seem to have FOUR different pieces: Top, back, side 1, and side 2.

I just installed a set on my new project guitar, and they are just as good as those on my other guitars. I see no problem with them.

I've drop-filled many a dent and chip with superglue, in the past, but that wasn't for a guitar I was about to finish. You MAY still be able to do it that way, I don't know. Curious to see what others have to say about it.

I looked. I don't see a seem. It is one piece, on the top and on the bottom. However, they didn't get the belly scales quite centered, though, on the top, and the pattern looks a bit skewd between the left and right sides of the top. Might've had to compromise the positioning, in order for the piece to fit. Hmmm..if you look at the heel shot, you can see where the top and the side's scales change directions, too. Further indication of a splice.

And looking at the lift of the scales, I am certain that this is legit python skin. Fake skin, at least those that I'VE ever seen, don't lift like that, cause they aren't real scales, but mere texture on the fake skin.

Something to note: the belly scales on that guitar are both on the top AND on the bottom of the guitar, so there has to be seams. Otherwise, that's one WEIRD SNAKE!

On second examination, I see the seams. They are located on the edges between the top, back and the sides (It is essentially 3 pieces). If you notice, the scale patterns don't line up, in those areas, too, further giving proof of a seam. You are right, though. To make it as seamless as possible, they interlocked the scales.

How IS the EVH Camo going, Dino? Dying to see the finished results.

Dude! That diamond plate one is SWEEEEET! I'd go with THAT! And don't do a thing with the headstock. Leave it the way it is, stock. I hate when people screw with the headstocks too much. Definitely looks like a custom factory job, that way. And the diamond adds to the industrial look. Definitely looks like my workplace, now!!!

As someone who just routed for a locking nut, not too long ago, let me just say that unless you NEED a locking nut, don't INSTALL a locking nut, especially if you are a beginner. All it takes is routing too deep, or routing into the end of the fretboard, and you've toasted your neck. Of course, either scenario MAY be repairable, but see what you've done? Created even MORE work for yourself than needed.

Now, my nut routing job went flawless, and I am quite happy with it, but if it would've gone south, I'd be rather p.o.ed, right about now.

Now, you be sure to post pics of this beast, okay? I'm gonna be real interested in how it looks, as will many others.

I've repaired case latches by using stainless pop rivets. Much better than the wimpy aluminum one, which never seem to hold up, well.

Looks like the case material it blown out, so you'll have to fabricate a backing plate, to cover the offending area. Providing the original latch is fine (looks like it, from the pics), you can re-use it. Your backing plate is gonna have to overhang the offending area, by roughly a 1/2", preferrably more, on either side, for it to hold. You can also help in the fix, by epoxying the backer, in place, so it will not shift, once everything is together.

all in all, this is a far easier fix than the dreaded corner blowout!

You guys make some good points.

I've decided to just shoot the gloss urethane, sand it flat and steel wool it nice and smooth.

I think that they provide the look I'm going for.

Here's a pic of the body I'll be doing this on (before clearcoat).

haha. See the pics made it to this forum, too, Dino. Been drooling over them, over at JCF.

Back to the issue: Don't forget that sanding sponges are readily available, too. I use them, on my necks, once I'm done shooting them, to degloss them, and they work quite nicely, especially since they retain the water better than just sandpaper, and they follow the contours, nicely. Plus, you can get them in different grits.

Word to the wise: If you THINK the laquer is hard enough, it still probably isn't. If it isn't, and you put it on that towel, and start applying pressure, to rub it out, you are gonna get towel impressions in the finish. Sometimes it can take up to a year before laquer is cured enough to even place in a case, without getting the impressions of the faux fur in it.

BE CAREFUL!!

You can also finesse the plastic back to a nice finish, with a little light sandpaper, and some plastic polish.

Well, at least they will no longer squeek.

LOL. Yeah. Let's just say that, if I had a guitar like that, and I wished to keep it, I shouldn't take it within 100 yards of work. Otherwise, it'd be bagged up, and surveyed in NO TIME!

Must just be how the picture came out. Looks like red, from where I sit. Hmm. Hey, if you build it, are you gonna have a set of meters on ya, as well as some dosimetry? Cause that baby will be SCREAMING!

Just a design idea (artwork, not body) that I wanted to get some opinions on hehe. Obviously the body shape is a JEM (my favorite body style) Did some playing around with photoshop's layers to see different looks for it. Let me know what you think.

The headstock letters is my initials. It's kind of funny because I work with Radioactive material all the time and we always call it RAM for short.

With the upper 2 pickups removed

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c348/wol...guitar2copy.jpg

No monkey grip

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c348/wol...itar2nogrip.jpg

Interesting idea, dude. I know EXACTLY what you mean, concerning the phrase "RAM". However, isn't the trifoil meant to be in magenta, instead of red? Just an observation.

Reminds me of THIS guitar:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Jackson-starfish-clone...1QQcmdZViewItem

...Second thought, THIS one is cooler, too.

Well, that explains why I couldn't find them, online.

Yes, it is.

Whoops! Sorry, mate. I had the page bookmarked, and didn't quite pay attention to the finer print. If I find other links, I'll pass it on. Only THIS TIME, I'll check the availability, first.

I just use sanding sponges, readily available at Walmart, and soak it, first. Does that job nicely, and they come in different grits.