custom22

Those types of bridges are wonderful, but i dont know that specific one. They generally still have screws to set it, and once it is set (if set correctly) never needs adjustment.

Neck thrus are a little harder to have a neck angle. You can recess the tunomatic bridge like carvin does.

You could strip it and repaint it, but dont expect too much from the wood underneath. If you want a solid color, you can shoot the color right over the existing finish. You can strip it and then do another burst or something.

Check out www.reranch.com If your in the US you can buy prodects from there. Otherwise, theres lots of good info there.

White ash is extremely heavy and dense, and will be sort of like making a guitar of maple. Black ash is lighter and more resonant. Swamp ash is the portion of the black ash which is grown underwater, which causes it to be so light. All swamp ash goes to the guitar building industry, hence woodworkers' confusion.

Basically, look for black ash, and go by weight. They should know if it is black or white ash.

I got a really good deal from www.thewoodwell.com , but it took about 3 weeks for the wood to arrive.

Hey,

Ive been recording stuff for some time, and have always used compression on complete guitar tracks, but i was wondering who uses the pedal types that go into your amp for live purposes and such? I am looking for opinions on different types; i know that MXR has a couple for cheap. Does anyone have any opinions on compressors in general, as well as specific types?

I would appreciate any thoughts.

-Ryan

do u have to change mode every time the chord changes???

I dont. I am still stumbling through this myself, but when you play a major scale over something you dont change scales for each chord do you? You can, such as in the Joe Satriani's solo in Satch Boogie, but that is optional(not the best word but you know what i mean).

(PRS is the only way to go)

Only if you can't afford a Gibson

Sorry, couldn't resist...my Les Paul wants to kill yer PRS

Bring it on!

Currently:

Strat(s) - Tube Screamer - Fender Champ with Torres mods (bedroom use)

Future:

Strat(s) - Tube Screamer - Fender (Twin/Vibro/Super etc...)

It's amazing how refreshing it is to keep things simple and actually listen to, and appreciate, your own playing style uncluttered by effects.

Not to say I don't like a few pedals, but I'm moving towards a more natural/raw sound - my sound!

Cheers

wwood

Amen to that. I love in up my deville with the tube screamer, mixing the overdrive on the amp with the tube sreamer. Sometimes i throw a little chorus in there. If i want effects, i go to a solid state amp.

People these days it seems are looking for so much more than a guitar sound. To me it takes a large chunk of the actual playing out of guitar playing. For me, I'd rather start out with a set arrangement of tones in the guitar (PRS is the only way to go) with clean power boosting.

my last post on modes did not get much feedback at all so thought i would try again!! i know all of the shapes in C major, but i still don't know when to play them. i was on this website which gave you backing tracks in certain keys and modes, so i tried to play over it like it said but it did't sound right at all. so if there is any advise, help, or links that people can send me i would appreciate it.

thanks, chris.

Ummm, I don't think I agree with what you are saying (or at least how you are saying it)

If you play an A flat Locrian (Ab Bbb Cb Db Ebb Fb Gb) over a tune that is in A flat (Ab Bb C Db Eb F G) You are going to get some really disonant sounding stuff.

Well yes, I should have mentioned this. The chord progression will usually dictate which mode you use.

I was just pulling some examples out of my butt for illustration's purpose. I did not see if it would work out.

[quote name='verhoevenc' post='284549' date='Aug 19 2006, 11:58 AM']
I just added an Ibanez Gold Sparkle Talman TC420 to my list posted awhile back... I think in this thread... or a similar one... maybe it was the "wishlist" thread? Either way yeah, it's a cheap-ish guitar, but it's been a childish crush for YEARS now... so I just had to have it, quality or not lol.
As for custom 22.... beware.... I live like 30 minutes from you... I will come steal your stuff
Chris
[/quote]

If you can get past the dogs, barbed wire, laser fence, and land mines, you may have a chance...


S.Dodding- I know exactly what you mean. When that guy opened the case for my PRS in the store, it still had wrapping on it, and I was in love.

That strap reminds me of that candy Fruit by the Foot that we all loved

My main guitar, all I need for anything and everything-PRS Custom 22, 20th Anniversary. Every setting is useful, sustains forever, the only guitar where i can use the tone and volume with a good tone. Sounds great with 11s and 12s.

[img]http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a255/victorfirth/efc6scd.jpg[/img]


[url="http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a255/victorfirth/sgqawfeafqwefgq.jpg"]My vintage section- 65 Gibson Sg Standard, 66 Telecaster, Amercian Deluxe Stratocaster (ok, not so vintage) [/url]

[url="http://s13.photobucket.com/albums/a255/victorfirth/?action=view¤t=IMG_1116.jpg&refPage=&imgAnch=imgAnch8"]My first homemade guitar- [/url]


Fender Deville 2x12
Fender Stage 100 Head
Marshall MG100DFX
Vintage Sunn Cabinet with Celestions
Ibanez Tube Screamer
Vintage Vox Wah


Roland 3 Watt Cube (dont laught just cuz it runs off batteries! this through my Deville blows everything away )

Fender Jazz Bass
Ampeg Head
Ampeg 1 15 Cabinet
Fender 4x10 cabinet

Yea thats about it- dont have too much yet

All of them look great.

Basswood would be a good start. I made my first body out of pine, and no i never finsihed it, it was more of a prototype but it helped me. I would go with alder or basswood. A lot of shred guitars are of basswood. It is a buit soft.

Basically, you take a major scale, and when you start and end on a different note than the root, you have a mode. This different note you started and ended on is the key of what you are playing.

For example, you could start on the third note of an A major, which is C#, and have a song in C# that has a dark tone. It takes a little bit of thinking

Here are two important things

http://www.theorylessons.com/modes.html -Scroll to the bottom, and there is a chart where the fancy names correspond to the Do Re Me's.

http://www.theorylessons.com/flats.html - Here, towards the bottom is a chart which tells you what sort of feels you will get with each one.

So now, when you decide you want a certain feel, like a dark metal one, you see what key the song is in, and find that note. You then decide which mode you will use based on these charts, and find which major scale has that note in the right position.

Suppose I have a song in "A flat" that I want a dark metal sound. I look it up, and locrian is the best mode for that. Locrian is the "ti" note, or the seventh. "A flat" is the "ti" note in the A major scale. So now, you use the A major scale, starting on "A flat"

Also, for it to be effective, you have to land on the roots fifths and other notes that make up the chord progression you are playing over. Otherwise, it will not work.

I HIGHLY doubt that the finish would have such a dramatic effect on sound. A tung oil finish should provide the same sort of effect.

I beleve that a single coat of wax will not let resonate the wood the same way a multiple oil finish will do, but is there a effect on sound... surely nothing like black/white. Oil go deeper in the wood so there are a damping effect on vibration?

Philippe

The finish is said to have a tone, when it is cheap, thick, plastic like polyester. I personally can see some difference, but with a bass, I doubt one could tell the difference. Oils and nitro do not seal off the wood from "breathing" as polyesters do, but many maintain that a thin coat of either will sound the same.

So dont count on the finish to give you your dream tone. With a bass, I'd bet that it wont make a bit of difference.

To me, one of the greatest things about a set neck is the reduction of the heel. In a tele, you will not get that because of the way the body is so thick, and the way it is shaped.

As for tone and sustain, it has been my experience that a set neck is superior if every other variable is good. Depending on how you design it, the neck could extend past where the bolt on area would be and into the neck pickup rout, probably making a more solid connection.

Just trying to point out things. If all your going to do is glue it where you would bolt it, I wouldnt bother. If your going to extend the tenon, then it may be worth it.

It is certainly feasible for a body-I dont know about a neck.

For finishing, you will need to wipe it down with acetone to leach all the oils out if you plan on doing a hard finish.

Perhaps one should start by trying to decide what is a guitar virtuoso!

For all of Steve Vai's virtuosity for instance(and it is undeniable), he is no hendrix, clapton, beck, page or any of these (founding rock) guys and I know he has the humility to admit it...that is what I most admire about him...but no one does Vai like Vai does Vai, nor will they ever! Compare SRV or Clapton's take on Albert King too, (think Strange Brew) and you would have to agree that AK far exceeded any imitation.

pete

I was watching a Stevie Ray Vaughn DVD, and he had the oppurtunity to have BB King open for him, and declined even though he was many times more skillful. It goes to show your point, that even though there are people who are technically skilled and can play fast, they wont be a Page or a BB King.

Just thought I'd try to build on your thought you had there.

Man this was hard. I love that puzzle bass, and I also love blue bursts. I personally do not like les pauls, and am not a fan of those types of sunbursts, also I'm sure it is a finely crafted instrument. That first timer bass looks pretty good too, and at the last minute a tele shows up that looks killer. I dont know what to do.

Guitar Fet1sh (my computer blocks the real word) has a bunch of active components. I am considering trying one for my next project. I bet if you take the circuit out, you could fit it onboard as well.

I used a tablesaw with a normal sized blade, and made passes until it was barely big enough for the truss rod to fit in. I used the stew mac hot rod, and you should definately use a double way rod as it is more functional and far easier.

The only problem with the tablesaw is that I didnt have much of a neck angle, so there was a groove in the headstock. Nothing a veneer couldnt fix. Also, you have to keep in mind that the blade is round, and will have to cut farther than the truss rod will go.

Of course, I only used this for lack of a router in my posession , so I have no experience with a router.

Just showing that you dont need expensive tools to build a guitar.

-Ryan

Thats looking great. I'll definatly be keeping an eye on this build is I'm actually working on a neckthru right now without use of massive tools. Our plan was to cut out the horns and then glue the wings, and to see someone on PG do the same gives a good feeling. Keep it up man.

Just a few question, for the pups caveties and the control area will you be using a columndrill or just a hand one? And how are you going to do the wiring 'tunnels' for thepickup wires?

Thanks.

As of now, I'll be using a hand drill. I've got one pickup cavity dug out, and I've started the control cavity. I will try to post pics today. As for the wiring tunnel, if I cant squeeze a drill bit in the pickup cavity to go to the other, I may have to use an extra long drill bit, starting from the end.

What I dont really like is when the thread starts without pics, except a piece of maple and two pieces of alder. I think people should wait until there is something substantial to show.

Whatever you do, do not just use glue. Make sure that the mass of what you fill it with is wood. This shouldnt be much of a problem if you are trying a material finish.