jgordonXXX

31 minutes ago, ScottR said:

That sounds like a fascinating story, I'm sure I'm not the only one that would like to hear it one day.

What's up with the Pignose? Is that something you built?

SR

It was given to me when I purchased a like new but used Ibenez acoustic electric in my neighborhood. It needs a repair which I am also working on. You should google it as the brand has some interesting reading and some pretty high-profile players and admirers.

Later...

12 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:

Watching with interest

I am still getting the hang of communicating this way as opposed to years of Facebook dalliance. Ha, ha, ha...great word “dalliance”, eh? Anyhow, today and the upcoming weekend I am busy with many unavoidable, non-instrument-building activities. Thanks for the interesting reply.

JE

On 1/19/2019 at 12:09 PM, ScottR said:

Cheers JGordon.

As Andy said, do not fear hijacking threads around here. We welcome it and thrive on it, since it opens up so many interesting discussions that would have been missed otherwise.

I typically come up with a shape that starts as a (foggy) impression in my head and begins to coalesce once I start mentally kicking it around a bit. Then I literally scribble a bunch of versions of it on paper until one of them sets the ol' radar to dinging. There are no rules to body shape....or very few anyway. It has to have enough meat to effect a solid neck join. It has to have enough distance from the neck join/last fret to attach the bridge at the proper scale length...and enough meat there to attach the bridge solidly. There needs to be enough depth somewhere to house the controls. The control cavity is normally covered, but there is no rule that it must be.

That's it.

Andy nails it here.

I've seen a number of custom builds that features a concave cutout that allows the guitar to sit on the leg. I suspect that would be the direction you'd want to explore first. Try sketching up some ideas full size on paper or posterboard and cut it out to see how it fits. Then when you've got one that looks promising, cut the shape out of plywood and maybe attach a 1x2 "neck" and see how that feels.

Once you've got it nailed, draw out your plans and start making sawdust. Post up your progress and ask your questions and we'll answer and give advice every step of the way.

SR

SR, Your comments here and comments from others make me want to sequester myself in my “shop” (small area in my basement with limited tools and big ideas) and endlessly produce gits and basses of unique design. Emphasis on the “big” ideas.

Also of note...the knowledge and expertise evidenced when I manage to slice out some time to read the posts here indicates to me that I should have spent more time in pursuit of worthwhile skills such as these instead of mucking about all over the place. That’s a whole other story though and not entirely without merit. ( “Fun” fact - In the summer of 1969 I worked on the Edmund Fitzgerald and, among other things witnessed Detroit in flames at night from the deck of said vessel.) But I digress...

Sufice it to say, I will do my best to be worthy of inclusion to this impressive group of builders. Peace.

Hi all,

I was wondering if someone could help me get “fully” signed up? I cannot seem to set a password. When I try I get a message about username already in use.

 Thanks 

1 minute ago, jgordonXXX said:

Good stuff. Thanks for taking the time to help give me ideas.

Wow, thanks for all of those tips! Makes perfect sense to me.

JE

16 hours ago, ScottR said:

Cheers JGordon.

As Andy said, do not fear hijacking threads around here. We welcome it and thrive on it, since it opens up so many interesting discussions that would have been missed otherwise.

I typically come up with a shape that starts as a (foggy) impression in my head and begins to coalesce once I start mentally kicking it around a bit. Then I literally scribble a bunch of versions of it on paper until one of them sets the ol' radar to dinging. There are no rules to body shape....or very few anyway. It has to have enough meat to effect a solid neck join. It has to have enough distance from the neck join/last fret to attach the bridge at the proper scale length...and enough meat there to attach the bridge solidly. There needs to be enough depth somewhere to house the controls. The control cavity is normally covered, but there is no rule that it must be.

That's it.

Andy nails it here.

I've seen a number of custom builds that features a concave cutout that allows the guitar to sit on the leg. I suspect that would be the direction you'd want to explore first. Try sketching up some ideas full size on paper or posterboard and cut it out to see how it fits. Then when you've got one that looks promising, cut the shape out of plywood and maybe attach a 1x2 "neck" and see how that feels.

Once you've got it nailed, draw out your plans and start making sawdust. Post up your progress and ask your questions and we'll answer and give advice every step of the way.

SR

Good stuff. Thanks for taking the time to help give me ideas.

On 1/18/2019 at 11:11 PM, mistermikev said:

as cigar box guitars go... that's about as 'classy' as i have seen.  very nice.  welcome.

Thanks, that is so very nice of you to say. Not sure about classy (lol) but I can say that the sound and intonation was spot on. Combination of taking it real slow and a little bit of luck, I think.

On 1/18/2019 at 10:08 AM, ADFinlayson said:

Welcome, Im a fairly new member myself, only on my 6th build currently. As above, when you start a new project, be sure to post your progress - The method is as interesting to see as the final result. Good luck with your 4-string

Thanks.

20 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:

Continuing the experiments with combining thin bodies and curved bodies, I made a series of builds, all aimed at minimising weight but maintaining balance and hopefully them visually not looking overly skinny.

Why would I want to avoid them looking too skinny?  Simply because, as a general rule, the guitaring fraternity are a very conservative bunch!  And very skinny looking guitars and basses are seen by many as 'quirky'.  

The first was this piccolo bass, built for our band's bassist who wanted to noodle on the sofa with something that was more guitar sized and didn't weigh like he had the local farmer's prize bull on his lap.

The weight was 5 1/2lbs 

Did it look skinny?   Not especially...although it looks maybe a bit flat-bodied.  There is very little curve to the overall body

Was it super-light materials?  No - maple, walnut and sapele

Did the slimness add a touch of elegance and playing comfort at the upper frets?  Yes - definitely ref the latter and in my view yes also on the former:

 

I did a 6-string electric version for myself which was identical except that I merely added a few more curves at the edges.  The effect of this is that it made it actually look thicker.  Again, very modest curve to the overall body:

From the side, though, you can see it isn't - the body is not much thicker than the neck:

 

This one, with the double humbuckers, was 5 3/4lbs

Interestingly, based on the utterly scientific method of counting how many people looked at the various build threads, the bass players loved it, but the electric players less enthusiastic.

So next challenge - could I make a lightweight look like a ' more conventional' 6-string electric.

Enter 'Janes Lightweight Swift'.  This had HEAVY woods: maple, ebony, amboyna - and the back is Oak!!!!

Now this LOOKS a thicker guitar.  It's not.  Weighs in at 5 1/4lbs in spite of the oak and the double humbuckers.  But it has more of a curve:

And that thin neck-through section gives me that brick-wall free neck body transition:

 

So the final test of the theory was the Swift Lite bass.  Was it possible to:

• Have a lightweight long-scale bass that
• looked 'conventional' thickness, and
• balanced on strap and knee, and
• had unfettered access to the upper frets

Well, this was surely getting close:

At under 6 1/2lbs, but does it look overly thin?

 

Does it still have that smooth transition at the neck body join?

 

Is the top and the back curved?  Well, back definitely.  The top only at the edges.

 

Next post I'll go to the other extreme...what options do you have if you throw 'convention' to the wind?  

 

I’m new here so I hope that I am doing this correctly, lol. First I want to say that you have seriously over-the-top building skills! At 70 years old and low on the learning curve with minimal tools I think it’s highly unlikely that I could ever hope to achieve what you have.

”Throwing convention to the wind” is exactly what I want to do. I am building for no one but myself and a beautiful finish is not necessary for me. What I want is, as you touched upon is balance and playability tailored specifically to my playing. I am so impressed by your builds but realistically it is not in the cards for me to get to where you are. Great work and looking forward to more from you on throwing convention to the wind.

10 hours ago, ScottR said:

Welcome JGordon!

If you build it we want to see it. We've had mandolins, mandolos, ukes, electric cellos, electric mandolins, and many others built here. We love it all.

SR

Thanks guys. 

Hi, new member here,  I would like to have dialogues with builders in the group who are able to build good looking, great sounding solid bodies without spending a ton of money. I realize that a person could spend “thousands” using the best parts (electronics, etc) and have better odds of hitting a home run. For some of us that’ Just not in the cards. Anyone feel that way?

Hi, new guy hear,

Anyone have suggestions for lower cost, good sounding pick ups? 

Thanks 

Interesting topic for this “old” new member. As I am a new member I don’t want to be guilty of “hijacking” the post so if my question is off-topic please tell me.

Here it is:

How does a builder (commercial or private) come up with the starting shape? I know that there are several well known shapes (you know what they are, lol) that many of us start with and then modify one to personalize for ourselves. Here is where I am getting bogged down...

    I always play seated. No matter which guitar I am playing (solid-body, acoustic, full size or 3/4) I play more comfortably that way BUT I still don’t feel that I have the control I want. I can’t help but think that by taking and using the proper measurements for myself that I should be able to design a guitar just for my own use. Any thoughts?

No in-progress pictures that I can find easily but here’s one of the finished pictures. LOL, be gentle it was my first. Plays like a dream and intonation and tone very nice IMHO. I gave it to my daughter so I can’t provide an audio sample unless I did one 3 years ago when I gifted it to her.

 Thanks 

Also, my intent is to gain additional information to build a solid body electric 4 string guitar tuned to D3-G3-B3-E4 from low to high. Sound wise I hope to result in tone similar to some of John Mayers guitar sounds.

(Sure wish I could play like he does!)

New member. Thanks for having me. I have only built 2 CBG’s but I have reworked and modified guitars. If allowed I can post a picture or 2 of cbg’s?

 Thanks 

Real nice! Thanks for sharing. I hope being here helps me do work half as nice as what you’ Done.

 Why don’t I have permission to vote ?

 Thanks 

I hope someone can suggest some shape (?] size, etc. for comfortable and precise holding while sitting down. Note: I already play acoustic 6-string, standard and baritone uke, 6-string lap steel  and 4-string CBG’s. I don’t play proficiently and just can’t play very well standing. The instruments that I have are even a bit awkward at times playing seated. My goal is to create a solid body electric set up to really scream! I don’t want to learn a different way of holding it...I want it to work with ME. THANKS for any help that you can give me.