erikbojerik

I believe the Korina McCarty is just a hair under 2" thick.

Rattle my cage if you strike out trying to find Korina over there in the EU. I can usually find both the white stuff (like the McCarty) and the black korina (like the one below) pretty easily.

Black korina and white korina are the same species - just one has black streaks and the other does not.

[quote name='westhemann' post='6808' date='Apr 25 2003, 09:34 PM']CLIFF BURTON.i love him(not in a homo way)[/quote]

I love it - Wes has the gay radar tuned up all the way back in 2003.

War Flea and Myung.

Claypool can play but the guy is just too goofy for me.

If the headstock logo is original (a big "if"), it is pre-1948. The pickup is non-original and was added - electric Gibsons from that era had pickups only in the neck position (traditional for archtops of that vintage).

I'm guessing either an L-50 acoustic archtop (f-hole model), or an ES-125 where the cutout for the neck pickup was patched up.

Pre-war Gibson sunbursts are also 2-color not 3-color like this one, so it has probably been refinished - if the finish is original, then the headstock logo may not be - and the guitar could be much younger. Tuners are non-original, pickguards (two!) are non-original. Trapeze tailpiece *might* be original.

You may also date it from the serial number but it depends on whether the number is on the back of the headstock, on the neck block, or on a label inside the body. See here: http://www.provide.net/~cfh/gibson.html#serial

Not terribly collectible, so you should be able to get it for a good price.

Its shrinkage and movement thats the key to why quartersawn is better.

What Spoke said - and to follow up, the main advantage of CF bars is neck stability over time. CF does not move like wood does in response to heat and humidity, so in 20 years your neck will likely be in better shape if it has CF bars. They are no more difficult to install than a truss rod.

Do not steam - it will weaken the glue joint and you'll very likely end up with 2 pieces again. How thick is it? Maybe you can just plane it flat...??

If its 3/8" thick or less, Set the piece so the edges are cupping upward (concave-up) and spritz or sponge some water onto the wood - don't soak it, but wet it thoroughly and evenly. Let it sit in the sun until it starts to move toward straight, then rest it on a flat surface with some weight on top - and leave it for a few weeks. Better yet is to stand it up 1/4" or so above the surface with some wood shims so the air can get around it - but make sure the shims are all the same thickness so you don't deform your top.

These shims are called "stickers" - and when you stack wood with them in between and weight the pile, it's called "stack & sticker" - its the only proper way to store wood that's on the thin side to prevent it from warping while it acclimatizes to your climate.

Well - the first thing I would do is move the nitro operation outdoors - or at least out in the garage where fumes won't collect in the house. If you and your housemates aren't dead within 5 years I'll be surprised.

After that - most good spray booths actually push air through a filter and then into the booth, i.e. the booth has air flowing out of it. You'd like to vent the fumes but if you're also pulling air out, then you need to adjust the CFMs of the "push" and "pull" fans so that you have positive pressure inside the booth, i.e. you're pushing more air in than you're pulling out. The air that isn't vented will escape the booth outward.

With your shop vac setup, you're actually pulling air into the booth - and you see the result.

Another possibility is that you are counting a nut slot as the first fret - there should be 25 slots for a 24-fret board unless you are putting the nut at the end of the board.

Very nice!

If you don't want the pores to stand out, Zpoxy finishing resin is the way to go. Very clear, sands easily, compatible with nitro.

Yep - that's what I recall you were going to do with it.

I've had a hankering to get some more of that bubinga - I'm in the middle of an acoustic back & side binge.

Woodfinder.com

Type in your ZIP and how far you're willing to drive, and it will show you all the places. If there's a place within 2-3 hours roundtrip you'll likely save $$.

I've visited places as far as 5 hours away - even farther if I'm away on business. Now that I've been to some of them, I know which ones are likely to have what I want in stock, and I can just phone them up and have stuff shipped instead of driving there again.

I hate sanding inside cutaways - that's about the only hating I do.

Unless when (rarely) something unexpected and wrong happens, then I scream and stomp like a 2-year-old.

I know there are a lot of people who buy from America, that are located somewhere in the orient. They some how find people/companies whose business is nothing but re-shipping items. Somehow it ends up being fairly cheap.

That is a fantasy if you're talking just shipping one item. If you're a business with a shipping account, you can get a price break - but its not that much. International shipping is what it is.

Obviously you can get a break if you're shipping huge quantities of stuff by surface freight (i.e. boat on the ocean) if you want to wait 2-3 months. Then you might be able to find someone to toss your fretboard in with their 100 metric tons of dog food (or whatever).

Have you tried Moses graphite? I am fairly sure you can get carbon fiber fretboards from them - not quite phenolic, but could be the next best option short of ebony.

http://www.mosesgraphite.com/orderinfo.html

Well - whatever it is, I must have it wrong because I don't sound like Jimi when I play a strat.

Cut it up into fretboard blanks and you might be able to sell enough of them to make back the cost.

I would be a bit worried about the neck pocket - not much meat between the neck plate and the heel. Could have kept it thicker tapering toward the middle of the body and used neck screw ferrules instead of a neck plate.

Loving the color matching of the spalt and black limba.

If you just want to eliminate the batteries, use a stereo cable to send phantom power to your circuit.

Oh man - those were the days.

Perry - appears there's a Lance Litchfield in Brisbane who makes some very nice looking classical and flamenco guitars.

But on Googlefight, Jeff gets over 3X as many hits as Lance - poor fellow probably has no idea what he's up against.

There are a few for me - since I buy almost all my wood in the rough, I really enjoy planing it off and seeing the detail of what's underneath. There are usually some surprises (most of them good).

I really like working on the fretboard - binding the board, rolling the edges, fretting, making the ends nice. Making it feel like it's been played for 10 years already.

I like levelling & buffing the finish too - when I'm in a patient mood that is, a little background music, bucket of soapy water, being really picky. But if I'm in a hurry and don't have a couple of hours free I won't do it.

I also really like wiring the electronics - I've always enjoyed soldering.

Perry the extended payment schedule is a great idea - it is less painful to pay for an instrument over the course of a year or so.

Free accident damage?! OK I could see that with a headstock splice or something, but man - if any of that is refinishing, there's some hours there...

Figured woods are less stable over time than their straight-grained counterparts - that, combined with the fact that western maple is softer than rock maple - I would never use quilted for a neck.

Fretboard yes - neck, no.

Piezo without the preamp will make sound - but it is pretty weak and can be a bit noisy and hollow-sounding. And you will have a harder time balancing it with your magnetics.

In this situation, you get what you pay for.

Quilted is NOT flamed turned on its side.

Quilted maple occurs only in Western Bigleaf Maple (Acer macrophyllum) that comes from the Western US - it is a figure that does not occur in Eastern US maples.

Flame figure occurs in all maples (including western).

Western Bigleaf Maple is not as hard or stable as Eastern Rock Maple (a.k.a. Sugar Maple, Acer sacchurum) - there are other maples offered up in the eastern US that are collectively called "soft maple" which are not as hard or stiff as "hard" or "rock" maple.

Stay with rock maple (A. sacchurum) for your necks.

All the names (scientific and local) are totally different in Europe so YMMV over there.

Hi folks. I have some Padouk that I sliced into nice sized inlay pieces. I think the contrast of the reddish wood will look great inlayed into ebony.

anyone ever try this combo ? will the woods wear out at different rates ??

Thanks in advance -

PGFH

It is not quite as hard as ebony and so it will wear a little more quickly, but a little epoxy grain fill will prevent that - and fill in the huge canyons it has for pores. Then buff out the board as usual - should look cool.