RAI6

Of course, it's a guitar, so you only have six strings to tune.

However, with each fret (and each string) being individually adjusted, it's as close as you're going to get.

Each note gets individual attention.

You can't tune each note on a guitar...

Best,

Todd

Sure you can.

It's called the True Temperament System.

The Feiten System was just that:

Move the nut, and adjust intonation following their specific instructions.

The nut itself has no compensation.

Not much of a major breakthrough, if you think about it...

The new True Temperant system, however, seems just brilliant.

In my opinion...

RAI6 you can only let it sit if your product doesn't have sepecific time windows you HAVE to stick too.

True, but if you cannot deliver the project due to these issues, then what's the difference?

Head to your nearest kitchen remodeling business, and you should be able to pick up scraps for free.

And the choice of colors is virtually endless...

I'm not an expert, but if everything is OK up to clear, one would have to assume that the issue is right there. Have you considered just letting your project sit for an extended time before clear, to make sure there are no curing issues of the color?

And when you say your location is "climate controlled", does that include humidity, or just temperature?

Or Corian.

Legal or not legal (which it isn't), it's also a question of morals....

The excuse "but it's only for myself" is pure BS.

Since you know that it's not a Fender, then why bother putting a Fender logo on there?

Simply to show off to others that it's something it's not...

Aah, see that's the tricky part...

To make a new neck for an existing body, if you don't already have a neck to compare it to.

Do you have the bridge for the body?

With the bridge in place, you can start taking some measurements.

It might help to draw this out at full-size...

On a sheet of paper, mark the bridge and the saddle position. From there, measure 25.5", and mark the nut.

From the saddle position, you can also draw out where the neck pocket is (completely drawn out).

Now you should have a pretty decent idea of where to go with the neck......

RAI6, you mentioned the scale length not indicating the length of the neck. If you have a Fender style body that accepts Fender necks, the distance from the bridge saddles to the heel end of the neck pocket, plus the nut to heel distance of the neck itself, should end up being 25.5 inches shouldn't it? I am still learning, so I won't be upset if I am not understanding this.

The distance between the bridge and the end of the neck, irrelevant to scale length.....

The scale length is the distance between the saddle and the nut.

You have 25.5" between the high E saddle and the fretboard side of the nut. To verify your scale length, you should then have 12.75" from the nut (and the saddle) to the 12th fret (which is the halfway point).

With that knowledge, you should see that the points that matter have nothing to do with the physical length of the neck itself...

Well, as you pointed out yourself, "overhang" or not makes a difference.

How many frets?

See, the scale length doesn't give any indication to the length of the neck.

Some necks may have more or less wood after the last fret, which then, of course, changes the length of the neck, but not the scale length itself...

"Standard" is a very vague thing in the guitar world, even for manufacturers like Fender.

You could always stuff the pu cavities with some foam.....

How strong is the photopolymer material?

In other words, can it hold a bridge down, once you put some string tension on it?

Can it hold anything, period?

I was worried about having enough room for the Bigsby, so they ended up getting a bit cramped. If I could do it again, I would move the neck pup right up to the neck pocket.

The bridge size should have nothing to do with the space left for the pickups....

Scale length and # of frets, sure, but the size of the bridge?

I hope you didn't move the bridge based on its size.

Yeah, it's one thing to have routed for humbuckers before.

Chances are the next brand will be similar enough to fit your template.

However, if I had never routed for it, I wouldn't trust some measurement I picked up online.

Not-in-hand measurements are good for planning, but that's where it should stop.

For me, "that should work" isn't acceptable....

How about you do the safe thing and get the hardware in your hands before performing a task that is irreversible....?

Just a thought.......

Funny thing about this issue is that you have the tool in your picture, and know how to use it to detect whether you had the angle correct.

Rich

Too bad that the guy that did the job didn't have the same tool......

Well, an off the rack PRS costs around 3.5g's (for the one I want).

Yeah, it might cost that much (for the one you want), but keep in mind, that what you're building won't be even close to that guitar.

If you compare your end result with a PRS at the same price level (as your build ended up costing), you'll see that their guitar will be WAY better than yours.

I'm not trying to discourage you from building, but you have to realize that it won't be cheap to build a guitar, and the chances of it turning out great are very small.

Not impossible, but small...

It's been said before, and needs to be said again:

If you're building a guitar thinking you can save money, think again.

one thing people always misunderstand is that you dont have to strip the paint all the way down to the wood. why would you want to? thats basicly good thick primer to spray on, instead of stripping it all down and re spraying back to the same thickness of primer.

You would if you stain it, which is what he said he did...

As mentioned, locking tuners is a must, as well as a slippery and well cut nut.

The trem is just a part of the equation....

Let's put it this way:

you get what you pay for.

$100 for a complete paint job should barely even cover materials...

What is the scale length of the neck you have....?

Their frets aren't dressed though....

If the nut has a flat bottom you may want to take the material from the bottom of the nut vs trying to file each slot. Just place sandpaper on a very flat surface and take a little at a time by sliding it back and forth over the sandpaper and test it.

Won't quite work if the problem is that the slots aren't deep enough to hold the strings properly.

What you're talking about is if the strings are too high off the board at the nut.

Then you sand down the bottom of the nut. You would never make that adjustment by deepening the slots....

Something that hasn't been mentioned is the issues that could arise when carving the neck.

There have been plenty of stories of people carving into their truss rod channel.

And this is where the neck is the thickest!

Imagine the issues you will face if it's off-center....