hooglebug

yeah a p92 and miracle man

oops, forgot about this thread. here it is finished. and yes i did work out how to do the three way killswitch. eventually.

iv used halfords before in the old days - its acrylic, unless you have some special halfords near you! hehe. it works fine

surely you could just use it as a top and then the knot wouldnt be a problem at all. unless its a very deep knot

ahhhh much better. used a marker around the logo. and i like the burst a lot better now, not toomuch yellow like there was before. it looks much more balanced somehow

its not that bright in person i promise. as for the logo bit, i have been pondering doing something to make it look less crap. but she is getting it for next to nothing so she cant complain! hehe. i'll have a think about what todo with it

well the next ones gonna be a set neck so i guess i'll see

did a fair bit of sanding of the neck today, got a mighty fine blister on my thumb to show for it too. but then i got a bit itchy and couldnt wait, so i decided to do this

dont know if its gonna stay like that or have the red go around the right of the logo and to the edge of the fretboard. hmm i'll have to have a ponder. and yes, the logo looks a bit poo cos i had to route for it freehand and i slipped. silly me

lol well it a thought anyway. im going to be using cream whatever it is anyway. cream pups, switch tip, nut and covers. cos it will look better with the than black

prostheta - yeah gonna route a lip. the shape around the cavities is such that the covers will (hopefully) bend to shape when screwed in.

hydro - no pics of the carving process as i only took pics at the end of the day, and with both the front and the back i did them both within a day. i do the bulk of it with an angle grinder, then clean it up with files and chisels

im sure if you looked around long enough youd find it. try somewhere like 1001fonts.com and just trawl through

done the shaping on the back. again you cant see it too well on the photos but ah well. lots of sanding ahead of me now.

i have one in my purple mirror guitar. sounds pretty good with p90s, should sound even better with the semi hollow body too.

started the carving - did the front and a little of the back. the maple is a little less than half an inch so the carve is quite shallow. you cant really see it too well on these pics but the future owner came by today and she loves it so far so thats good. the body on the bass side is rounded over on the edges, whereas on the treble side, there will be a small natural edge binding. you should be able to see on the pics what im talking about

just a tuned filter not piezo. tuned filter is a passive little cube that you wire to a pot and as you turn the pot it takes mids out till you have an acoutic type sound.

lol thats a pencil line so i can see it better

the body wood is mahogany. the banding is some kind of fiber, maybe wood. feels like cardboard when you do stuff with it. i got it from stewmacs when i got the other things i needed.

a bit more info about it - stainless steel frets (another first for me! hehe). its going to have two bare knuckle p90's (maybe p91s) and a tuned filter for acoustic simulation, which should sound great with the semi hollow body.

after all the fuss that caused!! hell no. lol. the tops only about half and inch thick too so i couldnt anyway. theres still going to be a hint of it tho. cant really explain it or even know if its gonna work, but i guess i shall see when i (try) to do it

This is following on from this thread in the inlays bit - my first inlay

This is my first Sakura model, my first real inlay (apart from dots), my first maple fingerboard, my first bound fingerboard, my first maple front AND back, my first flame finish and my first semi-hollow. so, a guitar of firsts then.

This is the body with a test piece for the finish - (looks a little strectched in this pic for some reason)

Here's the back to show the figuring a little (the marks on the front and back are from flatting it down a little with an angle grinder - i had to resaw it myself by hand, so it was far from perfect)

Here's a few shots of the neck showing the binding and banding and also the inlay

on that video its the fuzz factory using the stab knob. sometimes he'll use one of his kaoss mansons, other times he'll use that pink glittery thing lol

yes just sand it off. you'll have to refinish it obviously

do you mean you want to just give it a translucent colour so you can see the wood through it? if so just colour the nitro with dye. if thats not what you mean, then i dont know what you do sorry

yes but if i install the binding before cutting the fret slots, the side of the fret tang will still be visable, which i dont want

well as its a seymour duncan pickup you'l be using that will work just fine. the split uses a push/pull pot and it cuts the pickup from two coils to just one, for a single coil type sound. if you dont want to use that, just use a normal pot and tape off the two wires that go to the switch bit

glue the inlays in, then radius the board, re-cut the fret slots, glue the binding on, level the binding