hooglebug

i've never done it but i would imagine that you get your body blank slightly thicker than you need it (5mm+) and then route away everything over than the cover(s) where it will be on the body, then use a flush cut saw to cut it off. then it would match exactly, so long as you got the control cavity in just the right place

been following pukkos build from the start and always loved it, so there was no choice really. but some great entries all round. again

ok back to this again. i took out the microphone and wired in the output of the guitar to the + and - so that it works off the pickups themselves rather than a microphone.

it works, but theres a pop when turning it on, pops when switching between pickups, and noise when i turn the volume knob. nothing with the tone though. would putting the electrolytic cap in sort this out? and so i know, that goes in over the battery? so the + and - of the cap go in on the + and - of the battery?

also, how would i add more leds to it? would i need to add more resistors?

thanks

when i have paid my credit card bill i shall be able to get the fretboard wood and some frets and get on with it rather than dawdling

just a bit more done. did a bit of carving today the good old fashioned way using a rasp a file and a spoke shave. takes about a year longer than an angle grinder but a lot more satisfying

no theres no route on the wing. the wire channel goes in about 15-20mm (cant remember) then i've routed a little in the pup cavities too so they're all connected

i really want to do a full blown deco, but i really cant afford to. so unless someone wants one (hint hint) i cant

hehe

i've done three seperate ones cos the pickups are being screwed to the body and the wire channels would have cut through where the screws were. thats the only reason i've done that

Mmm, I like the shape, and the headstock logo too. Think we could get a better pic of it? And how much Deco are you incorporating into this build? I'm hoping LOTS

As for the wire channel routes...... *pats self on back* Quite a nifty idea if I do say so myself That looks to be a 4" or so wide center block? What's the benefit of drilling/routing before putting the wings on? I myself like something to balance the router on, and the wings help. I'm building a thinline hollow as well, so any tips I can score along the way are nice. I'm noting the curious admission of soundholes, however.

What color are you thinking? Erm, yeah, I think that's enough questions for me, really.

Nice job, Hoogle!

well, this is a jnr. type thing, so not much deco on this one im afraid. the full version gets a good deco quota, so you'll have to wait till i do one of them hehe

this one isnt a semi-hollow, although once again, the full version is. the wire channels were only done like that as its easier to do that than drilling between each pickup once the wings are glued on. as for routing for the pups before the wings were glued on, well, im impatient hehe

im thinking the colour will be a light black tint all over with black bursting. maybe.

liking the new logo!!

thanks! thats my 'deco' logo especially for those guitars. i have a cool pickup cover design to go on them too when i do the full-on versions

and thanks zyon too

a warning before i start. this will probably be slow going as im buying parts as i can afford them and also doing other things.

i decided to put the tri-sonics from my very first build to some good use as that guitar never gets played anymore. so this is the use im putting it to. erm. yes. its a junior version (to a certain extent) of a semi-hollow design of mine. heres the design first

it will be a through neck made from black limba with either ebony or rosewood fretboard (havent decided yet). the tri-sonics will be controlled in the usual strat fashion, only with a series/parallel switch, with a push/pull on the vol to bring in the neck pickup, push/pull on the tone for phase, and a blend knob for the series mode. heres pics so far

can i do series/off/parallel with a lever switch or will it just have to be a mini toggle switch? either way - how to do it? anyone?

you could always have a clear guard and just burst some paint around the pup/ control cavities so you cant see through into them

i thought about a rotary switch and maybe i shall go down that route, but i want to see if i can get the 3-way thing to work first. is it possible to have the phase in there as well as the series/parallel? can i even have series/parallel with a 3-way lever switch? if not phase then how about series/kill/parallel?

this is what i have so far. pretty straight forward up to this point

how about a 5-way with the normal strat type selections, and a second lever (3-way this time) with series/phase/parallel. and maybe a push/pull to bring in the neck pup in any position. would all this be possible? if so what would the best way to go about doing it?

im going to be doing a guitar with 3 single coils (15 year old burns tri-sonics) soon, and didnt just want the usual strat style switching, but also without a million little switches everywhere (so that rules out the brian may option before anyone thinks about it hehe). so, any suggestions?

or a cove router bit.

ah ok thanks for that.

did it and it worked. shall have to wait for when/if i ever put it in a guitar to see if it causes any problems

i got a velleman sound to light kit to see if i could stick it in a guitar to light up as you play. it will work, but theres only a sensitivity pot to turn it off with, and i thought an on/off switch would be a useful addition. does anyone know how id go about adding one?

heres the schematic if that helps - link

i think supernova was just a little confused as to why just stop now and get rid of it. why not just finish it off as its so close. everyone seems to love it so why not. at least then you know you can do it and have an example of it in case anyone wants one in the future

Is there a practical reason to scallop all the way across when your fingers arent strong enough to fret a string hard enough on the bass side to warrant having scallops?

How thin are your fingers that they can reach in between the frets from 19th onwards, and hit the fretboard?

i wasnt having a go i was just wondering

And neither was I. People are quick to 'accept' certain ways of doing things, without question. Look at Steve Vai's Ibanez model, the Jem's. Why are they only scallopped on the last three or four frets? The ONLY place on the entire fretboard that scallops ARE USELESS!! Why cut away timber (sustain, tone, stability) when its not needed?

I interviewed a bunch of guitarists, and this is why i did it like this. I dont do anything without thinking it through first, and you guys should do the same. Just because someone else (me included?) has done something some way for years, doesnt mean its the best way.

Watch everyone else copy it now (its already started... hasnt even been a month yet).

thats why i was questioning hehe. i've never played a scalloped guitar before and dont really understand it hence the questions. and now i know!

i watched all the vids when someone prematurely posted a thread about it. was a good watch. this isnt really my cup of tea style wise but theres still bits i really like, and of course i can appreciate the quality of it. which is good. i'd say keep up the good work, but then why would you suddenly start doing crap hehe

Is there a practical reason to scallop all the way across when your fingers arent strong enough to fret a string hard enough on the bass side to warrant having scallops?

How thin are your fingers that they can reach in between the frets from 19th onwards, and hit the fretboard?

i wasnt having a go i was just wondering

im intrigued - why the scalloping on just that area? is there a practical reason for it? or any advantage to it? im just wondering

i have an oiled wenge neck with huge open pores and i cant feel them at all when playing

its kisekae

thanks kenny. i used expanded polystyrene for the form fitting. the tutorial linked a few posts up is about all you're going to need really. there are some pics missing from the start, but theres some good ones at the back too. and the descriptions are easy to follow