mammoth guitars

Ultimately its the strings that need to be grounded as the hum or buzz occurs when you are not touching a grounded point. That being said when using a non-conductive bridge on a guitar with magnetic pickups the strings need to be grounded in some manner. I am not sure how this is accomplished on the Myka guitar, perhaps through the tailpiece.

http://www.woodworkerssoursce.net

Link mistyped:

http://www.woodworkerssource.net/

When you don't have a wiring diagram the other option is to use a multimeter to figure out which switch positions connect which poles. It appears that switch has the middle pole as the common and it works from inside poles to outside as the selector is moved with the most inside pole connected at the same time the most outside pole is connected on the opposite side.

Its best to drill as many of the holes as possible and as mik indicated the holes can swell or fill with finish and may need to be cleaned out or redrilled. When using lacquer it can be risky drilling holes after finish as it can crack. With urethane, cracking is not as much of a problem.

Scrapers are a great tool to have. Those from Stewmac are way over priced. You can buy a pack of 6 for what they charge for one.

I have heard people say that Ken Warmoth is the man who knows replacement necks. Their quality is excellent, fret work is very well done. They do not level the frets so this is a process that will need to be done.

Thanks mammoth, but I think you missed my point a bit. I'm building a tele with humbuckers and I just thought it would be fun to add the 3 switch plate off a Jaguar that would basically let me program each possition of the pickup selector to either be tapped or not. I'm using 4 switches to get 6 sounds. This could easily be achieved with the 3-way and a single mini-toggle or push-pull pot (or even a 6-way rotary switch). I just wanted to make something different.

I got it, just trying to provide some additional info for the group as others may want to do something similiar.

You could use the 3rd slide switch for an acoustic bridge pickup set or to disable the tone control for stronger mids or enable a bass cut control etc.

Randall now makes 3 different combo amps that take those modules.

http://www.randallamplifiers.com/products/...s/mtscombos.asp

You should be able to put something together. It should not be too difficult to figure out which connector pins need what signal. You would need a spec for the tube voltage they use.

Do you have a schematic for the amp? On many amps the volume control would be inline before the driver stage of the power amp. This is just after the circuit that switches between the two channels.

Are you refering to one piece versus two piece? Wide enough pieces are more difficult to come by, although on a uke it should be fairly easy to get a wide piece for a back or top.

A simplier alternative to north/south coil tapping with less switches:

Either half of the coil is effectively shorted through S1 or S2. S3 is a typical 3 way toggle pickup selector switch and S1/S2 are on/off/on switches with the middle position giving full humbucker mode.

That body shape would look very cool with a figured maple top, thick enough to have the figured down over the edge.

Hi, im making a telecaster with a singlecoil size humbucker from guitar fetish and a vintage alnico in the bridge (chrome cover) also from guitar fetish. I think its the lil killer one (the humbucker). Anyways, are they any good? havent ordered them yet. Also can someone explain to me what potentiometer I should get? Guitar fetish says that I need like a push pull pot, can someone tell me what that is?

A push/pull pot is a potentiometer with a built in switch. The switch state is changed by pulling the knob or the shaft of the pot. There is a noticable click when its pulled or pushed back in.

Acoustic guitars typically have a 1/8th inch top, so 3/16th will be fine.

Acoustic soundboards serve a totally different function. The top should be thick enough to limit feedback issues when played at volume. Chris mentioned he was successful at 3/16" using Spruce worked well with his design. The design should be considered when choosing this thickness. Depending on how much material is remaining under the top(supporting it), and type of top wood. You may want a bit more or less thickness.

Peace,Rich

He implied strength of the top, hence if 1/8th will hold the guitar together, 3/16th will be fine.

Acoustic guitars typically have a 1/8th inch top, so 3/16th will be fine.

It could be an optical or binary switch with no detents.

Downloaded. You would think they are the only amp factory on the planet. Wow they make a lot of amplifiers.

You might find some rough cut wood for those prices. We sell fully cut, joined, glued and sanded blanks. NO dirt or rough edges.

You could use a pre-slotted fretboard as a guide by using a shim at one end to make it square to the profiled neck.

Sounds like your neck is bowed back. Remove the strings and use a straight edge to adjust the neck.

We have used a set of the Golden Age humbuckers and they worked out very well. Extremely well potted with no microphonics.

Alder is great...The 'tastes like chicken' of guitar wood.

Funny, first laugh of the day, good one.

That is normal and for a Les Paul as well. They have a small tennon that they hand fit to every body.

We just finished this, an example of no stain and clear poly over Mahogany (the back). Purple heart down the middle.