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mammoth guitars
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Posts posted by mammoth guitars
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You have it right Tim. Bridge is higher output to balance with the greater string vibration at the neck pickup.
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Here is your pic, nice wood.
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Good luck with your project Tom. Feel free to post away your questions and or use the search as many things are already covered.
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Updated.
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Double check your scale length before replacing with a standard nut - most of the OEM compensating nuts use a slightly shorter length between the nut and first fret so a standard nut will not work without modification.
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Wire nuts are made for 16 gauge electrical wires not 22-20 gauge hookup wire and some pickup wires are 24 gauge (tiny). Electrical tape would be better if you cannot get someone else to solder it up.
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Its not a bad idea, but you do not need resistors from the pickup to the output unless you want to decrease the output of the pickups.
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You could shorten the block, redrill the spring holes but you may have a problem with the spring cavity cutting into the pickup cavity or at least it will be tight. You may want to use a different trem like Kahler which only requires a top route of .75 inches.
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True the strings will stretch but it could be the tuners themselves moving around or they may have play in the gears which a lot of low cost tuners have.
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Sonicly no benefit... Do you have any specific experience to back it up? What material was used in your experiment (brass, steel), what type of wood, what type of bridge. I'm just curious why it didn't had any effect on tone whatsoever.
Yes. Used on top and back. The string terminates between the nut and bridge saddle and after that the stop points should not have any vibration or you will have tone loss.
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Sonicly no benefit, production benefits easier to install, less chance of damaging the finish, cheaper flat stamped metal.
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Hey Avenger, what will really get you is when you buy a new fancy drill press and the chuck is not installed!
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You are correct. A standard Fender type neck pocket is tapered at the same angle as the neck.
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+1 use a captcha
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Stands with latex tubing will damage lacquer and will probably damage a tru-oil finish as well. We have used stands with the foam padding and have not seen any issues with tru-oil or any other finish type.
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[4800 RPM (what's OPM?) seems to me like its on the fast side. I buff at a much lower speed... like 600 RPM. AT 4800, it'll just melt the finish. Actually, even a standard AC motor that runs at 1725 RPM is way too fast.
Your buffer was probably meant for metal or something like that.
Do a quick test on scrap and you'll see what I mean. 4800 will dig into the finish and/or melt it.
OPM = Orbits per minute. This is how the buffer's speed spec is stated and according to the Ryobi site 4800 orbits per minute is correct. http://www.ryobitools.com/products The orbits are the tiny circular movements it makes much like a random orbital sander.
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If your target is just a thin finish to seal the wood, use tru-oil.
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Active EMG's use 25k pots and usually the sets come with the pots. 9v battery should fit with only a single vol and tone. The stereo jack is needed to work as a switched ground for the preamps in the pickups.
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Or....you can mask the edges and use some Loctite black super glue and fill the gap.
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Curtis is right, without filtering it will not be such a great sound in the headphones. However, use regular headphones and put a series 32 ohm resistor on the speaker output to the headphone jack. Wire the jack so it disables the speaker when you plug in the headphones ie no need for an extra switch. Neutrik jacks make it real easy.
We have added external speaker jacks to the Frontman amps and the headphone jack mod is nearly the same with just the added resistor.
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I can see why there is a mod for making both work. The low input bypasses a tube stage on the high input which is not a typical setup for high/low inputs.
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Careful, don't blow yourself up!
Yeah, you should not be using an open chassis fan - it should have a sealed motor and be explosion proof.
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If your necks are consistent you can make a template that runs from a couple of inches at the end of the neck to the bridge location. Ours are laser cut steel.
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