mammoth guitars

But as it stands now, I have the action set at just a hair over 1/16" at the twelfth fret on the low E, and it's lower on the high E. The relief, at the moment, is about .004", measured with a feeler guage at the seventh fret with the first and seventeenth frets fretted. No real buzzing to speak of unless I hit it hard, so I know I'll have to raise things a bit more.

Good job. This is typically where we end up on our guitars, about .075 on the top and .060 on the bottom with about .005 relief. We use a radius beam with 320 to start as you stated but drop to 220 and do fret to fret leveling by hand, crown, then gradually work up to 2000 grit again by hand and then high speed polish. After a little break in on the fretboard strings practically bend themselves.

Nice color choice.

A baby's bum may be a bit too smooth, sand the body to 320 grit. You may want to rethink so many coats of sanding sealer - it can be a bit milky and may diminish the depth or look of the grain or figured top. We substitute lacquer for the sanding sealer on transparent finishes.

I'm not sure what the intregrated circuit is doing there and why they claim their circuit uses so much less power; they still have to light the LED, right?

It does not use much power until it needs to turn on the LED at which point the LED drain does not matter since its an indicator of a low battery.

+1 on the Kahler - they make a model that is designed for carved tops.

Same here on the Stewmac waterbased filler, it takes 5-6 coats on Mahogany to get it flat. The JE Mossers is better but it still takes about 4 coats - however it powders up nicely when sanding unlike the SM filler.

I still see a problem when clicking New Posts.

Gibson LP or SG are about 1-5/8" from the scale point of the top E (at the saddle) to center of pickup (the height screw).

+1 Laser

I will add to what Robert stated and say the comparisons have shown the ceramics are not linear in response to audio signals and the others are much more linear.

At one point we used the Earvana nuts as standard but we switched to Graph Tech. The Graph Tech nut works as well and with the ultru precisce tuners of today intonation has not been an issue.

There is specific instructions on installing an Earvana nut. The OEM version as you have selected requires the nut to be a bit closer to the first fret. If you would have selected the retrofit nut the only fitting required would be the height.

Jay, did you stain or tint or is it just sprayed clear?

That type of air cleaner is meant to suppliment a system that collects the dust from the tools, themselves. It collects the finer particals that get through the filters of the vacuums meant to pick up sawdust and woodchips. If used in this manner, than it's a great idea. You should probably still wear a dust mask, but it never hurts to make your shop that much safer.

peace,

russ

+2

How you are not going to notice a paper top? If you carve into it, and wood shavings come out I think that it is wood.... now this is not my experience, but if he had RE CARVED his top and paper came out, you bet that everyone in the forum will know by now!

Not sure I understand, its a kit that is already shaped, why you would do further "carving". Its covered in a maple veneer, you will not see what is under it. We have looked at them and this what we have seen.

No is not. I think that AlGee recerved one a long time ago. And itf it was paper I'm sure that he would had post it!!!

You will not notice it unless you look into the pickup routes where you can see it.

It's not paper, but a thin layer of flamed maple veneer. Looks nice and hides the glue lines of the basswood of mdf whatever.

There is a veneer, but its on top of a paper carved top - its a gray colored material made of many layers of thin paper. This paper top is glued to the wood back.

If its in the grain holes, sanding or scraping will not help. Use alcohol or naptha and a paper towel and wipe it down. If that does not get it all out you will need to use a scribe and pick it out hole by hole and use compressed air as j described.

What causes this problem is the lighter color wood's sanding dust getting into the pores.

The carved top on a Saga LP kit is laminated paper, not wood.

Use Quickwood epoxy wood filler. Get it at HD.

If you have a reaming tool you can drill them at 6mm then ream out the backside to 8mm. If not just drill it 8mm. Its important for the tuner not to move around in the backside hole. This is one thing that causes tuning problems.

Saga s-style kits have a half paddle headstock with tuner holes drilled but not shaped. The LP kit has a paper carved top. The Grizzly LP kit was quickly taken off the market probably for the same reason the SPG kits were taken off the market.

That is the same as the Saga kit is it not? And at twice the price.

The jack also has a ground connection and that is how the current path completes. The capacitor used on the volume across the middle terminal and the pickup or input connection (not to ground) is a high frequency bleed cap. When the volume is turned down there can be some high frequency loss and the bleed cap allows some of this high frequency to come through to the output jack via the middle terminal. The tone control uses a cap to ground to dump high frequencies to ground.