mammoth guitars

You can use a 500k pot for the volume. The single coils will be brighter than they would with a 250k but you can roll some of this off with the tone controls.

Welcome to PG Slim.

Dropping the tone controls from that diagram is fine.

The black ones are expensive. The wholesale prices are high and that is why it is neccessary to charge so much.

Sometimes yes and sometimes no. See dimarzio.com, they have info on their pickups along with the impedance and output voltage levels that will give you a better frame of reference for output vs impedance.

The stewmac fretwire and fretboards are not an exact fit. You will need to file down the tangs a bit. Perhaps that is why they also sell the fret barber.

You can use a couple of coats of their clear for S&S.

Use metalyzed vinyl - its much thinner than standard vinyl.

Make sure you use air filters on your intake vents. You can use an oil filled electric raditor to heat the room.

You can try unplugging cables from the PC checking for hum reduction to see if there is a leaky or not so shielded cable in use. If you get all the cables unplugged but the power, then the PC may be inducing something back into the outlet but run an extension cord to the amp from another room to see if that is the case.

Two 8 ohms cabs in parallel will equal 4 ohms.

You only need to angle the HB pickup if its of the angled type where the poles will line up with the strings, otherwise for a standard HB pickup install it parallell to the bridge.

String vibration above the nut typically indicates the string is vibrating in its slot. This is the primary reason why a V slot is recommended.

If the saddles on a plate style bridge have slots for the height screws then side to side movement is minimal. Without these slots the saddle widths help to keep them in place. If the saddles are set high then yes the angle with the downward string pressure will help to hold it in place.

On a tuneomatic bridge each saddles has its own slot and is held in place by the intonation screw and side to side movement is almost non-existant.

With a gap between the saddles you run the risk of them vibrating which will cause all kinds of odd harmonics in your output. Without a rigid connection the string will not vibrate correctly, not to mention it will sound bad. You could put some spacers in between each saddle but then how will it look?

Binding on an acoustic hides the braces that can show along the edge of the top.

You can use a standard pedestal but you will need to fabricate a mount that will hold the motor and arbor. You can make it out of MDF - that is what we did.

+1 bad pot, perhaps has a scratch in the carbon.

The EL84 is a great tube, it was specifically designed for audio applications. Not sure if you can state that it is specific to a genre of music. That would be more to the amp overall and much less for just a power amp.

+1 on the Grover mini locking tuners, we use them as standard

+1 use a fuse - that is what Taylor is doing on their new solidbodies.

Genius. I'm definitely doing that when I wire up my electronics for the new build, even just for peace of mind.

I just did some reading, Taylor uses a 5-milliamp fuse. Where in the chain would be the best to put it? I was thinking right after the output jack. As much as I myself don't want to suffer from horrible electric shock, I imagine it mustn't be good for the electronics of the guitar too, so putting it right after the jack might save the equipment as well.

You install in the same place as Taylor, the bridge ground. If you install it as part of the output and the fuse blows then you will no longer have output.

+1 use a fuse - that is what Taylor is doing on their new solidbodies.

Webstrings is probably the lowest cost. Never heard of bulk sold as a reel.

Check out the filters from moog.

The Saga kits are the least expensive on the market and are definately bolt on necks.