sekler

anyone knows where I could get tops like chechen, walnut, goncalo alves and hedua (ovankol) ?

On my tune-o-matic, (a Schaller roller style) I measured the string break point of the highest saddle (one of the two middle ones) in regards to the top of the guitar - this ended up being the height of the bridge when laying on a flat surface (the thumbscrews were recessed into the bridge) plus the height of the flange of the bushings. (since I didn't recess those into the body)

If your TOM is like the the standard styles I've seen, the thumbscrews should end up being recessed so the bottom of them is the same as the lowest point of the arched body of the bridge, but the flange of the bushings does add a miniscule amount to the height.

thanks for the reply dude..but actually, since the bushing will lie flat on top of body, I'd beleive that would be the farthest point at the bottom to measure from, no ? The middle part under the bridge is arched (radiused) as on the top of the bridge

here is a pic

http://tonepros.com/TP6.jpg

anyone ? thanks

On my tune-o-matic, (a Schaller roller style) I measured the string break point of the highest saddle (one of the two middle ones) in regards to the top of the guitar - this ended up being the height of the bridge when laying on a flat surface (the thumbscrews were recessed into the bridge) plus the height of the flange of the bushings. (since I didn't recess those into the body)

If your TOM is like the the standard styles I've seen, the thumbscrews should end up being recessed so the bottom of them is the same as the lowest point of the arched body of the bridge, but the flange of the bushings does add a miniscule amount to the height.

thanks for the reply dude..but actually, since the bushing will lie flat on top of body, I'd beleive that would be the farthest point at the bottom to measure from, no ? The middle part under the bridge is arched (radiused) as on the top of the bridge

here is a pic

http://tonepros.com/TP6.jpg

Hey guys,

I do have a tonepros tuneomatic and I'd like to know what is the appropriate way to measure it.

I know I should take the middle top (highest saddle on the radiused bridge) but what's the other point I should measure from ?

Bottom is radiused, and the two screws, would it be under the screw rhumbwheel (set at minimum height)since I beleive that's what touches the top of the guit right ?

thanks

Simon

Hey guys ,

where to get these ??

damn, I can't find a place.. they only always have maple and usual woods like this.. lmii doesn't have much stuff..warmoth doesn't sell them separately...ebay contains mostly narrow planks..

any places with huge selections, that can cover a whole body ??

thanks !

Here:

I was feeling particularly generous so I drew up a super easy to follow digram for you:

Just figure out the height your last fret is off the top of your guitar's body at the center of the neck, and the height of the bridge(at its lowest setting), and you're in business.

Using this method, it's just a simple matter of using some simple trigonometry to figure out your neck angle.

peace,

russ

mucho gracias man !!!! appreciated !

The top line is correct, but where does the bottom line go to? It should go to the top of the body. Listen, here's a tutorial, there's really nothing to it:

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=14036

thanks for the info...I read this before posting this thread but it doesn't seem too clear to me..

as for the bottom line I thought you said the middle of the bridge..since even the bottom is radiused and the lowest point near the body is the thumbscrew, I beleive that I just take the measurement from under the thumbscrew to the top line...

thanks again

Measure along the center line. That means the center and highest portion of the fretboard(plus the height of the frets) and approximately the height of the inner 2 saddles for the strings.

so from what you're telling me would this be correct ?

Hey guys, I'm fairly advanced with my plan.

The only thing that bugs me is the neck angle thing..

I placed my end of fb point as well as the end of body one. For the height of the bridge (thumbwheel set all the way to the bridge), I don't know how to measure it correctly. Saddles are radiused,and I'm measuring from the bottom of the thumbwheel (lowest point where bridge could touch the body from what I can see). if I just take the flat part of the bridge (not the saddles, the part that is straight), it's 0.5in . But strings rest on the saddles so if I take the measurement from the middle saddles, it's the heighest point that reads about 0.62in. Since the saddles are radiused it's kinda hard to evaluate. I have a range of neck angle that would vary between 3.5 to about a lil less than 5 degrees.

which are the 2 appropriate spots for the right height of the bridge ?

btw, the neck will be angled back the Gibson way

thanks !

Hey guys,

I saw a guitar made by an expperienced luthier that had this type of nut...it doesn't seem to be used a lot and to me it doesn't seem real slippery when I handle my carbon fiber rods..anyone has experience with this ?

Hey guys, just wondering ..

I'm gathering all my tools for my guitar project..I just wanted to know which one of these would absolutely needed (I suppose it'll be mainly used for the neck/heel/headstock area...I doubt I'll roundover my guit with this (will use a router with bit for more accuracy)

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=...at=1,50230&ap=1

is a,b or c the one that I should get ? or are the three absolutely necessary ?

thanks !

as for ppl saying that you'll find something similar in a shop for less money..I think it can be true...but if you look at specs..I don't think that big companies cares a lot about the wood put into their guitars..unless you go for crazy quality brands, I'm pretty sure you can build a better quality guitar (choice of wood, 1 piece quartersawn stuff, carbon rods) for the price of a Gibson or even less (once you have the tools), especially since you're doing it yourself, you don't have to pay for ppl building it. I don't look at money really much as my first guit with all the tools will have cost me like 2500$can and probably more as I'm always looking at different tools and gadgets. ...but for a custom guit, I doubt that any company will do me one for such a price..usually way higher than that..of course you have the whole resale value thing..I don't care since I'm mostly doing guitars I'll keep..so for me yes I'll be saving some money

I forgot about that saying about the wood glue companies (joint stronger than the wood)...yep it'll be a painted body !

So I guess I'll just add what's missing

Hey guys !

I realized today that my plank wasn't wide enough for the shape I'll be doing. I'm missing like 3-4 inches or so.

Since I'll be ordering a plank of probably the same size at the same place, I'll have to glue them to get the right size. Now my question is...for saving some wood, can I glue just the 3-4 inches part to my first plank and then do as usual, or would it be stronger or better to glue the two planks, and center the body so that the glued section (line) is pretty much the center of the body ?

thanks !!

Sim

just thought I'd add something.

Maybe more expensive that the rest, but her's another jig you can buy at stewmac

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Jigs/1/T..._Drill_Jig.html

Yeah, I do this all the time. It sort of an issue though. The old dots can be pluged, but they do show up close. If your board is ebony and you align the grain, the plug will be pretty much undetectable. Rosewood will show and maple don't even try. Basically, the darker the wood the better.

The best way is to make the new inlay design cover the holes where the dots use to be. That is what I did on this inlay.

man that is absolutely outstanding...

what the hell is CNC ? lol

thanks

thanks guys you rock...actually, since my radius is very small (think like a gibson LP, more like 10 or 12'') I guess I may be alright for all this..we'll see in due time.

IT's an ebony board..I read about pieces of the fb breaking away while cambering after the fret slots were cut..but since it's ebony and stronger than rosewood, do you think it should happen ? I guess I just have to not put too much pressure when I sand.

holy damn !!!! that is absolutely the nicest job I ever seen

I was searching for the same thing..finally managed to clean the garage a bit..parents accepted that I do my stuff there.

I'll try to find the link of some place for woodwork..however it was so damn far from my home that I didn't bother about it.

Hey guys,

I'm new to all this. I bought 2 books on guitar making and basically pretty got all my components and tools (morecwill be bought as it'll go on).

I have a question regarding cambering the fretboard.

I got my fretboard pre-slotted but I have to sand the proper radius..now I read that since the sanding will decrease the depth of the slot, it'll have to be sawed a lil deeper but also not straight, following the radius..what is the best way to do such a thing without messing up or cutting too deep in some places ? seems hard to have an even radiused slot.

other question is regarding the neck binding. since the binding would add a little extra width on the neck, I basically cut a small channel on the edge of the 2 sides when the fretboard is glued on the neck right ?

thanks again, I'll see you guys around