string_man

I unfortunately milled out the channels for the truss rod and the truss rods a bit too big, 0.5 mm too deep and 0.5 mm too much away from the sides altogether (see attached photo). What would you do? Maybe just glue the carbon rods with wood glue and wrap the rectangular profile piece of the truss rod with tape in several places?

What would you do to the truss rod ends (channel a bit too long)? Should I "stuff" them with something or does the channel have to be a bit longer because the (doble-action) truss rod gets a bit longer when you turn the screw?

21 hours ago, ScottR said:

Yes, exactly this. I have run across the same thing using an old bottle for repairs. The old oil never got completely hard. You need to take it off and start over with a fresh bottle. And like Mike says, it does take a lot of thin coats....although I have never waited twenty four hours between coats, more like one hour and maybe three or four coats a day. Also, I have successfully sprayed it and that goes much quicker.

SR

Ok I see... this means taking it off completely? Do you have any hints how to do so? 00 steel wool or sanding paper?

I have treated my self-built electric guitar with Truoil (the wood is thermo-treated maple). I followed the instructions exactly (only application with 24 hours waiting time between coats, in the meantime treatment with steel wool). After 5 coats, the surface was unfortunately not homogeneous. Some areas remained matt, others shiny. After waiting a week I applied Sheen & Conditioner according to the instructions, even after multiple polishing the matte areas did not disappear and the surface feels slightly sticky. I have two questions:
1) What could be the reason for this? Could it be that the Truoil has expired (I have had the bottle for 5 years, it has been opened at that time).
2) I would like to touch up the surface now and apply Truoil again. To do this, do I need to completely remove all of the Truoil again or is it sufficient to remove the top layers (including sheen & conditioner) again with steel wool and reapply to the remaining Truoil layers?

Who has experience with this? Am very grateful for any help!

Hi, I am looking for products to apply to my neck and fretboard (both roasted maple) to get a look semi-glossy look like strandberg guitars for example. In the past I used tru oil for the neck and had good experiences with this. Would you also apply tru oil or a comparable product to the fretboard (roasted maple, too)?

I am considering to build a solid body guitar out of roasted maple (neck and body). Do you have any experiences / suggestions for neck and body out of this material?

Hi everybody, I was wondering if you had any experiences with the head design of a headless guitar (I know, it's a paradox). I am planning to you these headpieces: https://www.google.com/search?client=opera&q=abm+7010c+headpiece&sourceid=opera&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

together with a standard nut (no zero fret). How would you choose the distance between the nut and the headpieces and the height difference between these two in order to prevent strings from jumping out?

Hey, I am planning to build a multiscale guitar (with 6 strings, string length from 25" to 26" and a perpendicular 12th fret) and was interested if there are any neck requirements in terms of stability. Do you think a standard trussrod might be enough or would it need more in order to prevent the neck from twisting (such as carbon rods, etc?).

For those who are interesting, I found out that bare knuckle offers an additional option for their humbuckers with a slanted pole plate (1 degrees to 16 degrees). They charge an extra fee on that, but I thought it was worth a try and ordered a pair.

Hi,

I am looking for humbuckers for a 6 string multiscale (fanned fret) guitar that still give a good sound when slightly rotated so they fit with the fanned frets. It is important that the humbuckers have a regular size (not these bars you would use for 7 and 8 string guitars) and that they cover a wide range of different styles. Any recommendations?